Filling trim holes

Let me start this by saying I did the search and read the threads before I attempted to weld the holes for the reveal moldings above the windows in my 49 Chevy. I'm a very beginner welder but I have welded some patch panels and some bracket stuff. I have a MillerMatic 140 with Auto Set, 25%/75% Argon/ CO2. Using .23 wire. Here are the steps I have taken.

1. Cleaned to bare metal.
2. Clamped copper plate to inside of holes.
3. Tried filling with no filler.
4. Tried using nail as filler.

Here are my questions:

1. With no filler, do I strike arc on edge of hole or inside of hole on copper plate? I tried both ways and had some problems with burn through...is it wrong setting or too long on the trigger?

2. With the nail as filler...I pull the nail from the inside out and then cup the head off on the inside after it is welded or do I try to find a nail with the head to fit inside of the hole?

3. From the inside, does the weld need to completely fill the hole if it is solid on the outside or can body filler be used on the inside?

4. I'm going to give CHOPROD's method of using a fill rod a try tomorrow to see if it works better.

Any suggestions of how to make sure I'm doing this correctly would be appreciated since I've got 72 of these holes to weld up.

Thanks, Bill

 

what I like to do is use round rod the same size as the hole. I cut the rod into thin slivers with an angle grinder about 1/16. when you cut them it leaves a bur on the sliver, I use a set of needle nose pliers to hold the sliver by the bur then tac it into the hole. less heat than filling a hole with filler rod, Alot less time, good practice. plus if your having trouble with the slivers melting away you can make them a little thicker somthing you cant do with nails, besides nails have a coating you will have to clean off thats 72 nails you will have to clean. good luck. let us know how it goes.

 

Bill, heres a small tech i posted awhile back on using nails. i just got ones that had heads close to the size of my trim holes, held them in place and hit it with a few tacks. they turned out nice in the end, i used a fine roloc disc on the 90* knocked the welds down and skimmed it with filler. looks fine, has held up so far!

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=247969

 

I would do a rosette weld.Pull the trigger and get out in about one second. Hit it with air. Three welds should do it. Hit each weld with air. Knock it down with a hardstone until you can just feel it with your fingernail and finish it with a roloc disc.

 

i used an oxy torch to fill mine. All 26 of em in under 30 min. Ground down the welds, and didnt even hammer em. Turned out find. Then again, i do have way too much practice on oxy torch.

Turn your voltage down, and just tack it on the sides. watch the burn through, and you should be able to build up matieral with no problem.

 

I don't use a filler unless the hole is larger than 1/4".
Just put the copper behind, blast the wire at the holes edge and move it to fill the hole. Take 2 or 3 shots to fill a hole completely, unless it's a tiny hole.
If you're blowing through, you're too hot.
You'd be surprised how fast you can fill trim holes once you get the hang of it.
I also like to skip around, do 4 or 5 holes at a time, so you don't build so much heat concentrating on one.
I use a flattened piece of copper pipe so I can move around quickly, instead of clamping and unclamping to move.

 

I'm right there with chopolds. I use a piece of copper tubing with the end flattened that I hold on the backside and just start at one side and move across the hole.

 

depending on the size of the hole I use a whitney punch to make the plugs, quick and easy PAT.

 

The puddle does kinda grap the copper, so dont freak. Just let it cool a sec & the copper pops right off the back side of the weld. Carl Hagan

 

Home Depot sells hole backers. They are in the plumbing section. 10 inch long 1/2"
copper ******. Hammer the end flat on a 45* angle and your set. Start on the top of the hole and go left to right in short bursts. Then once you have a line down, go from the side of the hole to your weld, your weld to the other side. You have to land your weld on steel not the copper of that makes sense. Its alot easier that way. Trying to use a filler piece ends up being more trouble than its worth and only saves you minimal amounts of time and heat.

 

Well the wife went out to lunch with her friends today so I used the opportunity to get into the garage and do the hole. I have a job tonight so I was only able to get one side done. I made sure everything was shiny clean, used my copper backer and started spot welding. After about the 4th or 5th it started to get easier. 3 spots maybe 4 at the most and the puddle kept getting smaller so not so much to grind off. I did the grind with the edge of the wheel at first and then finished up with the flat followed by some sand paper. Since it is raining here now I decided to put some primer and a coat of paint on it just to keep the bare metal from rusting. I will go back later to use some filler to get it smooth.

Here's the next question. I think in my grinding I took too much off on a few of the holes. If I look from the side and the light is just right If looks flattened. What should I use to fill this and get it to the right shape? Here is a shot of what I'm talking about.