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HA/GR build, have questions on pedals and shifter.

Discussion in 'HA/GR' started by vectorsolid, Oct 17, 2008.

  1. vectorsolid
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 498

    vectorsolid
    Member
    from Montana

    Okay, I'm hooked, we're gonna build a few.

    I've been reading and looking at pics for 2 days now. I have a few un-answered questions that I could use some help with.

    a) Very few pictures if any of the pedal area. What's happening down there?

    b) Shifting, center, side, what's happening there? What is the general consensus on shifting. Is it between the legs or moved or??

    c) I see levers on some cars up the sides. Staging brakes? Not sure.

    d) The steering box. Looks like most folks have some random steering box that has an extension on it. Can those be found on-line, or is that a "make-it-yourself" piece?

    e) frame width? Is there a consensus? Back of my mind says 24" between the rails.

    d) I know we can whip out everything else. I'm just not yet wrapped around those minor areas. I've never built something narrow where I straddled the driveline. So I apologize for the sillyness of any of these questions. :)

    Any and all help appreciated.
    -Vector
     
  2. firstly, all this info has been mentioned previous, but, since I sincerely think your enthusiasm could be addictive, will give you a heads up...

    a) Pedals - will take some photo's of pedals over weekend, just keep it simple

    b) Shifting - depends on what box you end up running, most shift from between legs, some have a cable shift to the side

    c) Rear Brakes Lever - some choose to have a brake leaver as opposed to a brake pedal, each offer benefits, just need to pic which suits you...remembering that you use the brakes when you're at speed and the heart rate is high, so select what method you're most comfortable with.

    d) Most are 'do it yourself'...this is one topic I'll ask you to search and read up on as it has been discussed MANY times, and plenty of good feedback to point you in the right direction

    e) 25" wide at front, and a bit wider at the rear (say 28"), with a common wheelbase of around 115"

    f) feel free to ask questions, no problem at all, just have a look first just in case the topic has been mentioned prior...;):D

    So, here's a link I'd reccommend, then watch the video's etc...volume up

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=136815

    And as a token gesture, here's a couple of recent builds as examples...

    Here our first handful, way back when....in 2006

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=112323

    Mine...

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=223443

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=258250

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=149308

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=172766

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=137557

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=166288

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=254102

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=189651

    That should be a start....

    Remember that these things were initiated as some fun for the 'go-getters' at our yearly HAMB drags, to which others embraced the idea, and now we're international......small and low key, but growing...

    Look at these attached photo's, and if they look like something that 'rattles' your can, then we'd love to hear from you....and see you at Mokan racing.

    Cheers,

    Drewfus

    P.S. one last thing, and something that I'd personally love to be 'sticky's with the rules, was the closing comment from Ryan on a previous HA/GR thread......(Note: have copied it here to save the heartache of see that thread rebirth...)



    I didn't read much of this thread. I just got a feeling for what it was about and where has been headed. I'm going to write my thoughts and then close the thread - not because I fear backlash, but because I want people to think about what I wrote instead of typing a two sentence response and moving on. This will be one of the few times I offer leadership on the subject, so if you are looking for it, here it is:

    "Nothing ever stays the same. You can't build fences around life. It's just this on going process of evolution and change and growth and death. Everything in my life fits that bill... except for surfing. That's because I surf for me."

    I stole that from a movie called "A Brokedown Melody" and right about now you are either calling me crazy or a hippie... But hang on.

    I grew up racing and spent most of my adolescent years getting paid to do it. It's a business and just like any other business, you put on a suit and you go to work with one goal in mind - growth. If you don't grow, you die... but when you do grow, evolution takes over. And it's not something you or I can control. It's an organic process... and in the case of every auto racing venture/series ever started, this process killed the one thing that was responsible for starting the venture in the first place - passion.

    Once growth starts and evolution kicks in, the money race... the ego race... the competitive race... They all start to change things. No longer is Eddie going to the track just for love. He's going for other more powerful reasons that destroy the original intent. Innocence, more than anything, is lost.

    The guy that couldn't build a fence around his life, could around his surfing passion because he wasn't doing it for any other reason than to enjoy HIMSELF. He could care less if there were three people to share the waves with or 20... He was there for himself.

    I've always felt the HA/GR class should share the same intent. I don't care if there are 3 cars or 20... 1 event or 10... It's not a commercial endeavor. It's not an organized endeavor. These cars aren't fast, so it can't be a competitive one... It has to be one of passion.

    I honestly believe that any fella that builds one of these cars with the intent of reaching the outside world in anyway is doing it for the wrong reasons. These cars need to be selfish. They need to be all about the guy(s) that built it and drive it. People that haven't built one (myself included) shouldn't be involved in these conversations. They are just noise.

    I guess the bottom line is this... The HA/GR class was not built for fellas to live vicariously through an affordable form of racing. It wasn't built to see who can out think who with a flathead or who can out spend who with a straight 6. It was built for guys that have an honest passion for early drag racing... the foundation of it all... and as a way for the right guy to build a fence around his own passion.

    I'm afraid some folks are in it for the wrong reasons - and that's OK. They will get frustrated and move on... I just hope there are at least 1 or 2 guys out there that are banging gears with blinders on and a big ass smile on their face.


    Attached Thumbnails[​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  3. vectorsolid
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 498

    vectorsolid
    Member
    from Montana

    Totally appreciate your time. :)

    And although not handy here on the HAMB yet, I've logged possibly millions of typed words and done 5-10 build threads of my own on various projects on other forums. Like a lot of you, I'm active in about a dozen other automotive and fabrication forums.

    As the FNG, here's a bit about me. :)
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302116

    I know people say this all the time, in every forum on the web, "...Do a search, this has all been covered..."

    You know, sometimes it really hasn't been as covered as a person thinks.

    If I might quote you from 2006,
    "...Things I've learn't....less is more, plan the project before you start..."

    I'm just here plannin' ;) You've been at the HA/GR game for a while, and can surely appreciate the unusual complexites of it.

    I'm here to tell ya, I've watched all the videos (mostly discouraged by the LACK of smokey burnouts). exhausted the Australian links including the overly artsy pictures ones (best pedal pics, but no thoughts on what they're doing, some of you guys have your steering coming out the passenger side though). I managed to look at all 2500 pictures over at the flathead forum for the hamb2008 drags. Watched every video on youtube and anywhere else I could find, related to anything HA/GR. I've Printed out the HA/GR guidelines, printed off 50-60 of my favorite photos, had them bound, and then ran the idea up the flag pole with a few of my more motivated fabrication happy buddys like myself.

    I've got 4 guys ready to build. I'd say we're "those guys". We don't particularly care what everybody else does, we build stuff. That's what we do, and what we like.

    I just need to figure a few things ironed out.

    I'm guessing we can knock something out in about 60-90 hours. How's that for a dumb-ass, un-informed statement to make? :eek:
     
  4. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,432

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    As Ryan said so well, "I guess the bottom line is this... The HA/GR class was not built for fellas to live vicariously through an affordable form of racing. It wasn't built to see who can out think who with a flathead or who can out spend who with a straight 6. It was built for guys that have an honest passion for early drag racing... the foundation of it all... and as a way for the right guy to build a fence around his own passion."

    That's the true beauty of these cars. You can build what you want, the way you want.

    Use your imagination and have fun.

    Our chassis is two inches wide at the front and thirty six wide at the rear, looking to end up around 112" wheelbase. Dare to be different and use your ideas to make it work how you want it to.:cool:
     
  5. ThingyM
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 812

    ThingyM
    Member

    Personally/ I prefer 24" outside of rails. Reason.?? You don't want to be too loose in the cage area in case of a problem down track..(Tagging the wall..Etc.) As far as the steering goes, Don't just butt weld on another shaft and expect it to be safe..Ask some machine shop how they would do it....I drill, Pin, and weld all my extensions.. Just think safety when you build.. And have fun in your build.....
     
  6. Hey guys, I got the bug to build one in 2006 when I went to the Mokan races. Here'smy question, where are the class rules posted at? The set I have from 2006 are out of date, I'm sure. The main change I know of is that I won't be able to use that push buttom automatic behind my slant six. Thanks, John in Texas.
     
  7. mudflap261
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 588

    mudflap261
    Member
    from tulsa

    look at the top of this thread
     
  8. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,432

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Personally, I've been a bit "loose in the cage" for a long time. Part of the reason for my wider rear on the chassis is I plan on offset seating like the original "Bug", and it will get the shifter out of my crotch.:D
     
  9. Old6rodder
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,546

    Old6rodder
    Member
    from SoCal
    1. HA/GR owners group

    "and it will get the shifter out of my crotch.:D"

    Now THERE's a mistake I wouldn't care to make in public ......... :eek:

    :D
     
  10. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,432

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Talkin' about that long lever with the blue knob.:D
     
  11. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Leave it to you Old6:D:D:D
     
  12. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Vector, our car is 22" OD and I would go 24 on my next one, just depends on the starter to frame relationship. The frame rails are straight too the rearend and if I had an engine with the starter in the normal position (Ford six is high and tight) it would hit the frame. I went with a Top Shift for the simplicity, allowed me more foot room, and seems period correct. I love it when people ask where I found the car and how old is it :) We don't run a driveline and that doesn't allow for much leg room but I wanted the engine as far back as possible so it didn't look so much like an Altered. If I raise the 'dash bar' and build a new "cowl" the car would be more comfortable. The other change I would make is select an engine that I could purchase a Scattershield for, use an engine plate and have the body wrap around the bottom doubling as a floorboard giving you more room in the cockpit and eliminating the need of building an elaborate floorboard. Just some of my thoughts as I look back on my build. Rocky
     
  13. vectorsolid
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 498

    vectorsolid
    Member
    from Montana

    I appreciate your input. Your build thread is among favorites. And how low your car looks in the front is very appealing. the line is long, low and smooth. Nice work. The Curve on the headers REALLY does it for me.

    I put together about 40 great pics I've scrounged on the forums to show my friends what it's about. your car is about 30% of the pics. :)

    I hope I can count on you for some additional advice down the road. the steering area is my biggest concern right now. I've got 5-10 gearboxes laying around, all vega or corvair. But I haven't yet fully wrapped around the required modifications. I know I could come up with something, but I want it safe, and I want to be able to take it apart. Which is why I won't be welding the frame to the axles. And my back is getting old, I'm not gonna build a hard tail. :)

    this image.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. the best I found way to extend the shaft is to cut the splined end of the pitman arm and turn down to a little bigger than the socket used to tightened the nut,then weld the splined piece in the proper sized tubing then use a piece of nylon to mount it to the frame make a pitman arm out of flat bar length and shape you want then weld it to the tubing. hope this helps.
     
  15. REJ
    Joined: Mar 4, 2004
    Posts: 1,612

    REJ
    Member
    from FLA

    I used the corvair box on mine and welded the correct size shaft to the splined shaft and ran it through a bearing to the outside of the car. I can remove the shaft and bearing to get the one body panel off.
    As far as the pedals, I only have room for a throttle on one side and a clutch on the other side. I run a hand operated brake and have had no problems with it.
    That would probably be one change that I would make if I build another one. A little more cock pit room would be nice.
    Robert
     
  16. vectorsolid
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 498

    vectorsolid
    Member
    from Montana

    anybody find any interior of the cockpit pictures? :)
     
  17. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    I'll try to post some 2night.
     
  18. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Got em! The seat Bottom is 1/4" steel plate (covers u-joint) and the seat back is 12 Gage for inquiring minds. O Ya, Don't make the mistake I did, buy "PULL-UP" seat belts, Rocky
     

    Attached Files:

  19. vectorsolid
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 498

    vectorsolid
    Member
    from Montana

    Perfect. Thanks. :)
     

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