flathead problem

My 59ab runs like shit after it warms up.(Missing very badly-sounds like ignition)
I've swapped out the carb and replaced the fuel filter.
I've put in a different coil.I'm running a new Mallory Duel point dizzy.I've disconnected one set of points so I'm just running on one now.Could it be the condenser?

 

Yes it could be the condensor, and that's a cheap place to start. Mallory condensors are famous for being crap. I've heard a PN to use is Echlin (NAPA) RR175, but haven't used one myself. Good luck.

- alchemy

 

I've heard that NAPA replacement points for the late junker model Mallory cure the thousand mile point life problem. I've got a number for that here somewhere. Mallory recent condensors also have a vile reputation. Apparently they are not only short lived, they are coated with something that prevents proper grounding!
I would really recommend giving the Mallory a complete analysis by the traditional floatation test, and if it fails replace it with a '42-48 Ford distributor--which is Mallory designed and frequently Mallory built, from before Mallory's sad decline.

AHA!Napa CS2300 for YL, YD, ZD, CS2301 for older YC, ZC.

 

this might sound a bit odd,but..what are your waterpumps like?
if you are running the crab type dizzy on the front of the block,you may be getting the problem I was for a while that had us stumped.As your motor warms up and the water builds a little pressure it might be pushing one of your waterpumps forward if the bearing is worn.When this happens water sprays onto the dizzy and runs into the dizzy..making it run rough.It took my car about 20 mins of driving for this to happen.
hope this helps

 

This one seems obvious, so you've probably figured this one out. Hell, just adding another thought to the mix.

You don't mention what type of carb, so I'm assuming a Holley or Stromberg type. But if you have a carb with an automatic choke, it may be working incorrectly.

If you have a manual choke, you are disengaging it once the engine warms up, right.

Mike

 

Coil and Condensor is heat sensitive, and can stop work after heated up.
When the engine is hot and you have the problem. remove a sparkplug and check the spark. It should be BLUE and timmely.
The fatter the better. yellow spark indicates condensor/coil trouble.
Start with the condensor (it cheapest ;-))

 

I can't enuff How much I appreceate all the susgestions.They make damn good sense too.I'll let you know what it was.The worst part was that this started during the start of the Columbus Goodguys show and I was carless for the best part of the weekend.
Oh well.

 

Well I'll be dipped in shit.In all my years screwing around with SBC points and condensers,I've never had a condenser go bad on me.A lousey $3 part.I went to NAPA and picked up a Echlin RR175 and slapped it on.Runs like a champ.Damn!
Thanks,

 

rare32 I had the same thing happen to me, it took plug wires,carb... before I leaned over the motor and reved it and got a face full of anti-freeze. It was spraying right into the distributor. Tim

 

Well seems you had the right idea from the first post! Cool that it was a $3 fix.

So why is it that once we figure out the problem, many times we get more mad at what the problem was rather than being happy we solved the problem??

Works that way in my head at least...