Yup, works great. Used it on my banjo wheel, just need to open cracks up enough to press mix firmly into gaps. I used a tri-corner file and a hack saw blade. Let dry and sand..............paint.
I used the Eastwood kit, when I bought it there was the PC-7, instruction book and I think a little plastic tub and stir sticks for mixing the epoxy. You can get the PC-7 at the hardware store. I used it on a F-100 steering wheel nearly identical to the one in the original post. Clean out the cracks with a hacksaw blade, fill, file and sand to shape, then paint. It came out really nice, and still looks like new ten years later. The filing/sanding is tedious work but it's not difficult. It helps if you have some small riffler files to get into all the corners and grooves.
nothing in the kit. just do a search on here on how to. jb weld is thinner and will run out of the big cracks and pc 7 is a putty and has a hard time with small cracks.
The old Parco/Ace Hardware store in Georgetown has that display on their counter full of funk and dust. I didn't know it was a real display... I just thought someone stuck a bunch of **** together. I might go back see if they'll let me buy it LOL...
I second the "p***" on Por15 2-part epoxy putty. Used it to repair my '63 T-bird wheel and had a chunk of if fall out of a wheel spoke just before judges came to look at my car on its first time out. Still haven't repaired it. Stuff does shrink. I just uncovered some unopened MarineTex I got in the '80s to repair the wheel on my '55 Victoria and may use it instead, or get the PC-7 and try a side-by-side comparison.
I always thought it was a brilliant piece of advertising that proved the usefulness of the product. I use the stuff to repair lots of old car parts. I knew that I'd buy one if I ever saw one. I finally found one at Carlisle. It reminds me of Neal's auto parts the quintessential old time parts store in our area. The sign on their delivery truck says "If you need old car parts, call us all the other stores do." It doesn't hurt that the stuff really does work and last.
A couple of things to remember , a rough surface will bond better than a smooth one . The Dremel tool will help with that but open up the crack as little as possble . Most of the epoxys don't have a high viscosity when you mix them therefore you'll have to wrap the area with tape or even plastic wrap to keep it in place while it starts to harden . With the cold weather starting to settle in remember to keep your repair warm while setting . If you need to build up again , rough up the surfafe of the epoxy to ensure good bonding
Hey, well I went to Home Depot last night to get some pc 7... they didnt have it! they did have some pc products but nothing you guys talked about.... So I went ahead with the JB weld... It took pretty much the whole bit to do just the outside ring... made a nice mess trying to keep it in the crack... I wish I would of gotten the advice about the tape sooner! although I will have to do a second coat... there are still some dips and holes. Means I gotta go back to get some more jb weld. What do you guys recommend for painting the wheel? I ***ume the paint will have to be a hard paint to keep from rubbing off... should I use a urethane or a acrylic laquer or enamel??? or some spray paint from the store. I thought about using a duplicolor black and clear from the spray can from napa. was going to do the column the same. Thanks for the help guys. will post an update in a day or so.
I remember that display. I always tried to get the golf ball off when I was a kid. Anyways, is there an online source for the PC-7 that you guys know of in case the local stores don't stock it? Thanks, Chad
The PC-7 site says that Home Depot , Ace hardware and True Value all carry it. I found it in or around the paint department on a peg board filled with other epoxies and glues. It's a paste that can be molded and you don't need any dams to keep it in place like the liquid epoxies.
Steering Wheels For Sale I wanted to buy ONE banjo steering wheel from a guy who had a sort-of "steering wheel collection" of about 60 steering wheels.... he wouldnt sell BUT he would sell ALL the steering wheels... yeah they fit in the pickup. My wife was less than excited when I pulled up with a pickup truck full of old steering wheels. Now, I'm selling steering wheels to get my money back! I got wheels from the 1930s, 1940s, 1950s to the late 1960s and suicide knobs too, Funny? Yeah.
i used some stuff called epox-e-patch. its a little more flexible than JB, but i dont know if its still available. i havent been able to find any for years
Just ordered some PC-7 from Home depot - was listed as online only, so tag 6.50 shipping and TX sales tax on it. I hope 1 lb is enough, mine's pretty beat up!!
I have used JB Weld. It seems to have the right amount of fillers in it to aproximate the same flex/rigidity as the usual steering wheel has. Yes, v-groove and bevel every single crack. Do not fill a crack that has not been tapered or it will return quickly. Any filler needs a lot of contact area that a taper or bevel provides to "grab", and the filler needs to taper off into a thin, thin flexible layer at the end of the patch in order to hold on and flex with the wheel instead of showing a joint-line when the wheel flexes or shrinks. Do not use an epoxy that is too stiff and rigid or it will pull away from the original wheel material and show a line when the wheel flexes or shrinks. I use a good tough DuPont Urethane paint for the top coats because I don't want to do it over again in a few years. Thats one place where the extra dollars are well worth spending due to the large amount of work involved in doing it over again if you wear through or scratch a cheap paint.
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