If there are any guys in the world that can answer this, they will be found on this forum. I would like to make a pressurize engine oil preluber. I have found one on ebay that I may buy but I am thinking a garden sprayer possibly could be converted. Anyone ever make their own?
just modify an old oil pump by taking the drive gear off and hit with a 1/2 drill and spin it till you get press
20 lb propane tank. obsolete ones can be found everywherefor cheap. Take out valve and replace with necessary pipe fittins, gauge and valves. 5 quarts oil pressurised to 30 psi with air. Turn upside down and attach where oil pressure sender goes. open valve and turn motor till pressure is gone. prelubed
if you mean to mount in the engine bay ,you could use a small moon type tank,plum it in to the oil-cooler ports on the block ,put a check valve in the supply line ,and a ball valve in the return(to motor) line,before starting open the ball valve to pressurise oil system,before shutting engine down shut off ball valve to pressurise the tank for next start for prelube on a new engine i use an old distrubitor with the cam gear removed ,and spin it with a drill
The Dolmetsch Preluber Gavity will prelube your engine very well even have oil dripping from the rocker arms. I invented such a device about 11 years ago and use it excusively in my shop right up to my retirement and still use it for my own motors. Here are the instructions. Take a 1 QT or 1 litre oil jug. Remove the cap and drill a hole in it and thread the hole for 1/4 pipe. Buy a 1/4 pipe hose barb and thread it into the cap. Using wire or welding rod etc twist up a basket to hold a 1 qt or 1 litre oil jug upside down with a hook to hang it. Buy some oil proof hose (clear plastic line is ok too.) Obtain a hose barb with 1/8th thread on one end. Remove the oil sending unit or fitting from the engine and screw in the 1/8th hose barb with the hose attached and the cap on the other end. 3 feet works about right. Get your fresh oil jug and place it in the wire basket you made. Unscew the cap and screw it on to the cap attached to the free end. Hang the oil jug upside down. I hang from my engine hoist but it matters not what you hang it from. Take a sharpe awl or knife and poke a hole into the top of the oil jug. (Actually the bottom but it is now facing up) This lets the air in and the oil out. Go for lunch. When you return the oil will have traveled by gravity down the hose or line right into the oil galleries of the engine and dry start ups are eliminated. If you are working on an engine with cam metered rocker arm feed like the mopars, simply turning the engine over till oil drips off the rocker on one side then tuning a bit more till the other starts dripping lubes everything wonderfully. If in a hurry loosen the oil filter till oil gets there. That allows the air out faster but without doing that works fine too. Gone completely are the dry starts . Oil is exactly where it needs to be. Dristubutor drive bushing takes no abuse and no dirt or metal chips from you drill drive jumping are added to the engine. Just pure, cool, slippery, oil oozing slowly into ALL the places it needs to be. It works perfectly. Cost is under 10 bucks even if you had to buy everything and results are perfect. Lasts forever and hangs on a nail on your shop wall so you can always find it. Don
I made mine for only a few bucks. I took an old fire extinguisher, threaded in a pipe plug, added an electric valve that was designed to be a safety, or anti-theft fuel shutoff valve (an NOS valve or propane conversion fuel valve will work just as well), and plugged the line into the oil gallery. (Actually mine used the oil cooler line) I wired the solenoid valve to the ign switch. I turn on the key, count to 15, then start the engine. Usually I see a pound or two on the oil gauge to tell me it has been pre-lubed. As the car runs, the oil pressure recharges the can. When I shut the car off, the valve closes to save a pressurized oil charge for the next startup. It has worked well for over 15 years so far. I use a remote oil filter and oil cooler for my tight-fitting Cad 472 installation, so I consider it absolutely vital to save my bearings from the damage of dry starts.
I don't know how well it shows up in this picture, but my $20 (probably $35-$45 in todays money) oil pre-luber is on the side of the fenderwell and is plumbed into the large oil cooler you see in front of the radiator. You might be able to identify the extinguisher bottle on the right side of the picture right next to the fender-mounted oil filter.
If you want a portable one for use as a primer before starting a long-stored engine, I made mine from a few bits of plumbing. Take about a foot of the largest diam pipe you can find. Put some end-caps on the pipe so it looks like a large diam pipe bomb. (or you can use a fire extinguisher bottle as I described above) I drilled one end and screwed in an ordinary valve with a hose on the end. At the other end I installed a tire valve so I could shoot 30-40 pounds of pressure in it. (or you can use a TEE and put in both items at one end) I unscrew one end cap, pour in some oil (about a quart if there is room for it plus an air pocket), close it, and shoot a bit of air pressure in it. When I screw the hose into the engines oil gallery (often a replacement hose for a grease gun works great- usually has the same pipe-threads as most oil gallery plugs or oil pressure sending-unit threads), I open the valve and shoot some fresh oil into the dry engine to keep my cranking from tearing up the dry bearings. Usually I try to shoot into a head p***age and let the oil run down inside the galleries, or remove an oil pressure switch for easy access. My portable device looks like a pipe bomb with a hose on it. Easy to take along with the toolbox, starting battery, etc..
I saw one years ago that was va***n and spring operated. when you turned the key to start a solonoid released it and shot a load of oil to the engine for start up. When the engine started, va***n and oil pressure re-****ed the system and the soloniod held it till the next time to start...
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