I finally got off of my ass and decided to put in my door popper kit today. Everything was going smooth until it came time to program the remote(I opted for the remote version, not very "Traditional", but I dig it) I get everything wired, then reconnect the battery. Here's were things go bad. I test the push button, and it pops open. Here's where i jump the gun. I hit the key fob, and it opens. Then, damn it, I remember the instructions had a segment on programming the module/fob. So, out of curiosity, I hit the fob button again, and the solenoid doesn't pop. But I can here a little click coming from the control module. So, I follow the steps on the instructions, and still no pop of the solenoid firing, but I get clicks from the module. Did I screw things up? Any help is appreciated!
read the instructions again. there should be a way to REprogram the remote. i've done it before but it's been a LOOOONG time.
No instructions on reprogramming. Just the instructions for programming, which I've repeated with the same results. No reset button, either.
after taking care of some other household chores(on Friday night, what a geek!) I took another stab at it and low and behold found a blown fuse. Of course, the auto parts stores were closed, and the closest gas station had every size except what I needed.
Hey Bryan, You shouldn't have blown a fuse, I think you probably still might have a problem there somewhere??? Where do you have it fused anyway?? Mine just has the fuse in between the battery and the remote control module....from that the switched output goes thru a relay and to my solenoids...Are u running a relay?? I know some kits dont come with it, but those solenoids draw a fair bit of current, specially if they are tight or the door locks take a bit of force to pull. A relay might save the control module from burning out, or fuses from blowing cos those control modules aren't designed to switch high current. Just a thought... Paul
there is some kind of problem if it opened once and then blew a fuse. take a look at what you have done and make sure all is cool. do not put a bigger amp fuse in to fix the problem.
I'm trying to figure out if I did something wrong. I don't have the diagram with me(I'm at work), but I do know that 2 wires on one of the control module harnesses are supposed to be spliced together, and those two need a 12V source. There is a small box that has a fuse in it(10 Amp) that is attached to one (I think) of these wires. Thats the fuse that blew. The other harness on the module also has a 12v source into it. Any ideas?
maybe the solenoid stuck and blew the fuse, or theres a short to ground when it activates, or it was a bad fuse (weak).
well, put in the new fuse and the solenoid popped. Then I checked out the fuse, and sure enough, blown again. I'm pretty confused now. I'm following the diagram-I checked my wiring-Everything looks ok. My intention was to wire everything-but leave it out. By "out" I mean leave it so I'm not having to try and wire everything while hanging half out the door, head up under the dash. I planne don hooking it up this way, making sure everything was functioning properly, then tidying up, mounting the control module put of sight. Well, I can't get out of second gear here. Any ideas? No suggestion is too simple....I'm totally open for any troubleshooting ideas
figure out if the control module sends a negative or positive pulse, then just wire the relay accordingly. What brand system are you using?
Hmmm?? Not quite sure what to make of it Bryan It's hard to say where to start without seeign a wiring diagram with all your components shown. All I am thinking is that for some reason the solenoids are drawing too much current through that control module and it can't handle it. I think you should put some relays in to save the power going through your control module. They are a piece of cake to wire up. If you decide to go this way and need help wiring it up just shout out ! Paul
well, I went out to give it the old college try once again. checked everything out made sure everything was nice and neat. Hit the remote button again, and the damn top end of the solenoid shot right out of its case. I'm really not having the best of luck here. anyone ever have this happen?
well, here's my follow up. I wired up the second solenoid from the kit, and got the same result. First the blown fuse, then the solenid blew up. I contacted the vendor, they said this has happened before with the solenoids, apparently the manufactuer had a bad batch. So, I'm sending them back-the vendor was totally cool. I just hope I get a decent set this time.
DAMN! thats fuckin' crazy. just wired up mine last week end, and had the fuse prob. now running a 30. since then, blown only one fuse. you might want to try luben' up the latching shit to put less stress on the solenoid. good luck man! ....it'll be worth it!
the latch pops super easy-it's a bearclaw. Sounds like you've had some similar problems with the fuses. What brand is your kit?
I've had problems with mine... I don't think I have any blown fuse issues, but I hear the module click with no reaction on my passenger door. I also have been experiencing that I gotta be right up on the car for the damn remote to work for the driver door. I need to research the issues with mine more though to figure it out... either way a pain in the arse!
I have had the EXACT same problem! I did put a 30 amp fuse instead of the 10. and a couple days later the solenoid came apart, put the other one in and it only lasted a day. contacted the manufacture and they sent me some new ones and they have been working fine. I had to double and triple check my wiring too, but it was all correct, so I just upped the fuse. keven
ok, upping the fuse might be a quick bandaid, but you really need to use a relay to drive the solenoid. they can pull some serious amperage. by using a relay, you relieve the stress from the control unit, placing it on the relay which can handle the load. it's a bit more work, but it beats having that fuse blow while at your local cruise night, or burning up your control module since it's only meant to handle the 10 amp load,or worse yet, a fire. pm me if you need a guide thru on wiring in a relay. i wire 'em up everyday.
I put a circuit breaker in instead of a fuse... either that or you need to be able to get to the fuse without using the remote system. (a mechanical backup or something would do the trick, as well.) I'll agree with the comments on the use of relays. Many kits on the market now claim to have relays built in, but they are rarely heavy enough to activate most solenoids.
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