IFS or tube axle

Hi everyone. Haven't been here in a long while. Progess on my project is going well (after months/years of deliberation I finally decided which truck to finish first). I've rounded up most of the parts I need, except for my front suspension, teardown is complete, and I'm ready to start on my frame.

I'm torn between putting a tube axle in place or going with an MII ifs. I have two visions for this truck (a 1951 IHC L-110). I see it with the factory exterior and a completly updated driveline including IFS, big brakes, and big wheels (like in the truck magazines) and I can see it as a modern hot rod with a super low tube axle, 16" steelies or torque-thrusts, severely chopped roof, and running hoodless showing off a log intake with 6 or 8 carbs.

I'm scared as heck to spend my budget on a tube axle, brakes, etc and then find out it's not how I hoped it would be. Anyone have any thoughts on keeping a solid axle under their truck, and how they liked it? How about any thoughts on "updating" the solid axle to coil-overs and 4 link? I will be upgrading to disc brakes if I keep the solid axle, so it's mainly just the ride/handling I'm worried about.

Thanks.
jn6047

 

What about a MII with the Steelies. Great ride, with the look you want. Also, if it's low enough, only those laying their heads on the ground will see the tube axle. So why not get the ride you're looking for?

 

Thanks for the reply.

I've thought about this option as well. It does seem to be the way that 99.9% of vintage truck owners go but it just doesn't "feel" right for a vintage influenced rod, if that makes sense. Since you build a vintage styled hot rods do you have any thoughts to put my mind at ease?

 

I think Kevin gave you pretty good advice there. I'd really stay away from the big wheels. And in my opinion anything after 39-40 looks wrong without a hood.

 

Yeah, no hood is a tough call on anything after, say, '40. I've seen F1's and some Shoebox's look killer with no hood. But that's about it. I think the MII/Beam axle call would be decided in the shop if the truck was going to be a period piece. I love period pieces. But they involve LOTS of parts hunting, and a ton of work. All are well worth the outcome. I usually let the engine we're going to use pick the year for the project. My rationale, although it may be flawed, is to think along these lines:

Let's say the engine is a 303 Rocket. They came out in '49. Although it is possible that the average Joe builder at the time could have gotten one in 1949, I think the chances are better if you went forward a couple of years. Like 1951. By then, you could have told your buddy at the local yard, "hey, if some drunk stuffed shirt, or a house wife that can't drive (insert typical 1950's all-women-are-stupid sexism here) wraps an Olds around a tree, let me know. I want the motor." 1951 rolls around, and your buddy rings you up and says you can have the motor for $150.00. Now you have your motor. It's also been enough time for Offy or Cragar or somebody to whip up the transmission adapter you might need.

So it's 1951. That means that pretty much all the stuff for your period correct project needs to be available in a 1951 or 52 speed parts catalog. Getting one of those off of ebay, or a Xerox from someone on here will be a good guide to what you could have bought. Other print you can get to help you would be "Little Books" magazines, Popular Mechanics, and car advertisements. They'll all tell you things like what mods people were doing to what tires were available. You're also limited to 1952 and earlier production parts, so a book like "Cars Of The Fabulous 40's" or of the 50's will help you there.

If it's not a period job, then you just need to keep with the 1964 and earlier visible parts so you can get into shows like Lone Star or the Hunnert. If you go this route, why not have a nice ride? And you could possibly go air bags later if you want.

And don't let ride quality get to you. Beam axle, when properly set up and have the right spring rate ride just fine. And four wheel drums work great if you plumb them right and match the parts. No one was suing Cadillac in '58 because their 5000lb tanks didn't stop.

Kevin

 

I like a solid front axle. I make my own because it is easy and fun to do.
I believe in drum brakes. Big ones with metalic linings. Discs are ok too but I have a 63 MAX WEDGE 426 Dodge for a cruiser and the stock as produced drum brakes with Police or taxi if you will HD linings will haul it down from 120+ like nothing. Discs would work too but since it came this way i kept it so. My dragster also runs drums , rear only. No problems. People get carried away with the disc drum thing I think. Discs can stand the heat of repeated stops but they are not without problems too. Drum brakes are self energizing and all the braking parts are away from the weather which i like. Provided they are sufficient size and have good metallic style linings they are competitive with discs in every instance except maybe above 150 MPH or something.

Don

 

Thanks again everyone. After careful deliberation, I have decided to go with an MII IFS setup, and period style wheels. Much appreciated.

jn6047