Rear Susp. Set-up -- Hairpins

Some questions while I FINALLY get back to work on my car.

<font color="green"> Which setup would be better or does it matter? </font> 1)hairpins parallel to the frame and mounted towards the center of the rear axle, or
2) Mounted as far out as I can. (see pictures)

<font color="green"> What pinion angle should the rear axle have? </font>

Any other suggestions or words of wisdom?
THANK YOU!!

 

This pic shows the hairpin set all the way out on the end of the axle.

 

The pinion angle should be set to the same plane as your crank.

 

Why aren't your toes black and purple?

Mine would be if I were moving heavy things in sandals.

 

I think mounted out as far as possible is best, to give it the most leverage on the rearend. It also makes it slightly triangulated, so it will help hold the rearend in place. Are you running a panhard bar, or relying on the springs to control sideways forces?

 

I would assume that your using the front of the quarter-eliptic springs to control side-to-side movement.

 

Is that a hairpin or a single bar?
If it's a hairpin, they need to converge or one of the four mount points or a bar will eventually break. Also, the mount going to the spring will need some "give" at the spring end because the harpin will be swinging through a different arc from the spring and that solid (looking) link will bind.

 

pinion should be set to -1 or -2 degrees. the more negative it is set at the better bite the rear will have out of the hole

 

I would be really nervous using that 1/4 eliptic as a
panard, they are not designed to take side loads, and that
link to the axle doesn't look to be sufficient.

If the hairpins are not single bars, I would also use a
shackle on the spring so it doesn't bind.
TZ

 

Thanks everyone!

When I ran the car before, I didn't have a panhard, but I think you guys are right, it would be a good idea.

There is some give at the spring mount, so I think I'm OK there.

I'll set up the axle @ -1 degree, then dial in more with the hairpins as needed.

As for DrJ's idea that a hairpin will break, I thought I was in the clear on that?! A single bar can't give any and is bound, but a bar on top and on the bottom (hairpin) should allow some flex during axle movement, right? Aren't tons of cars set up this way? I'm changing the rear setup because I broke the wishbones I had on it. AM I hosed hear too???

Thanks again

 

I know Total performance &amp; speedway sell all there rod ends at either Straight or 7 degrees.So i'd say 7!!
JimV

 

wow... man check what your motor is at before you set the pinion.... you can check on the valve cover, NOT the intake/ carb mount. then match the pinion angle to the motor... may not be the drag racer way of doing it but it gives you the longest U joint life.

 

I can't tell one way or another.
Your pictures only give one view and there's not enough information in them to know what you are setting up.
Like I said I can't tell if that's a hairpin or a single rod.
If it's a single rod what's taking the place of the other bar of a 4 bar?
That link to the spring won't do the job of the other bar, that's for sure. I'll just bend from the push-pull of the rear end till its fastener in the spring gives up.
Show us a side and rear view!

 

Ok, Thanks Doc! I'll get some pictures and post again!! This is a pretty simple setup, so if its good, I hope someone else might use it.. if not, I better go back to the drawing board..

 

Here are the extra pics..
The engine is at 0 degrees with the car at ride height.

 

Here's some other pics with the help of my son... (How do you post more than one pic?)

 

Those are speedway brackets. They fit OK at best. Fit my hairpins perfectly. SIDE STORY: A guy named Adam Young made the hairpins for me. He's most well known for making drop axles. He was going to repair my axle, but it was cracked at the kingpin so he didn't feel right fixing it. I bought a stock axle and he drilled it for me.

 

last one..

 

If I was running those hairpins I'd skinny up that bracket where the clevis wraps around it and put some rubber washer bushings on both sides of it inside the clevis because it twists sideways when the car rolls on turns and the clevises will break if there isn't any room to play.
I spent the afternoon hammering old out and new bushings into the trailing arms of my '60 Chevy this afternoon so I've had time to contemplate how they need to work. Everything has to have a little room to "give" or it'll break instead...
Also I'd only weld the bracket up tight to the axle housing on the passenger side and run a "birdcage" on the other side because that will alow for the twisting on rolls too. See the birdcages Speedway sells so ya know what I'm talking about, but you can make your own;
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp/dept_id.L2~737/dept_name_p.Race+Products/deptSearch_id.2/qx/prod_list_display.htm

Or you could run two birdcages and just let the hairpins locate the axle and a torque arm to handle the axle wrap up.

I tstill think you need some give, some rubber bushings in that spring mount where it bolts thru the spring. Check the way a Corvette transverse rear spring link is put together and that's what I'm talking about. You have a pivot at the axle so you need a pivot os some "play" at the leaf too.