Alternator off rear end....???

Thanks for your concern but as i said to the other guy i've used ths system several times before so i know it works, As for belt deflection i already explained there is almost none.

 

Quite right, I actually dd a test by disconnecting my alternator on my daily to see how long it would run for, I drove it 70 miles in daylight and then the same back with the lights on, wipers going, i got home and it still started ok. I have way more capacity in this battery as well..
In my opinion if you were static in a hotrod for longer than 20 mins you would switch off anyway.

 

Interesting post. First one I ever saw in real life was on a friend's nascar modified. He had a one wire alternator from a junk Hundai set up on his Frankland quickchange, and it worked great, so I'm stealing his idea for my T modified, as I'm running an Iron Duke motor from a midget with a crank driven waterpump. Not worried about it not working, there's even guys using this setup on dirt cars, if it does give problems i'll deal with 'em as they come up, just like you deal with anything else...Good luck with yours.

 

I've been running this setup on my T-bucket for 15 years. Turning the alternator at 3x driveshaft speed, it charges above 20 mph. I use an Optima Yellowtop (deep discharge, fast recharge) battery. My car is all electric (water pump, fuel pump, EFI, MSD, etc) and I have no problems. The v-belt does get wet and slippery, so need to clean it once in a while. I have a Gilmer belt setup that will fix that soon. I had to go this way since the Potvin blower takes up the front of the engine.

 

wow, would like to see more of the potvin blower tee

 

picking apart ideas from all here:

seems to me somehow locating at bellhousing with gilmer belt/pulley and three wire alt would be the way to go

Anyoen know a reason not to use the mopar alt?

 

My pleasure!

 

I wanna see more of the girl !!! LOL

 

If you remove the alternator from the front to clean up the engine, now you only may have one belt to run from the crank to the water pump. The crank and water pump pulleys are statically mounted with no adjustment, how do you install a belt between these pulleys and allow for belt adjustment? Would you have to install an idler pulley?

 

I will just find a belt that is the exact correct length. To install it just place the belt around the crank and then water pump pulley, then slide the water pump pulley onto the waterpump shaft/studs.

 

I like the idea of gear driven off of flex plate or flywheel.Iffn' you break a BELT at that location,would'nt you be pulling a tranny to "re-belt"?

 

True, it'll charge spinning either direction. HOWEVER, in some cases the cooling fan on the alternator is designed to run in a specific direction.

I like the idea of the Harley stator and rotor under the water pump pulley. Kubota diesels use a similar arrangement. There are also a LOT of air-cooled 1-2 cylinder engines that have an alternator coil under the flywheel, and they'll be good for 15-20 amps, and might be adaptable.

 

Cool car cool R & P steering. Let's us see more

 

this is true - will need to think about how to set up a gear drive

not exactly traditional - but an electronic h2o pump would eliminate all belts up front - though not sure what that will do to electrical load

 

this does seem quite possible - but would you fix the stator and spin the housing or....

 

I would think doing it the way H.D. did it would be the best choice. Stationary mount the electrical parts and spin the field, or rotor.
I would like to see this set up used..and would really like to see it work, it would be a sweet set up

 

duh......thats what I meant. Trying to envison how to stationary mount the stator behind the water pump pulley (especially on a sb mopar pump housing) Im a ways away form this point on my engine work, but am defintily interested in researching.

 

this does seem quite possible - but would you fix the stator and spin the housing or....[/quote]


oh sorry..thought you were asking a question..it looks like you were asking..."would you fix the stator and spin the housing or?....

silly me

 

no no - dumb me at first, i was asking the question, but im on the page now

 

Couldn't you run something like this? Roundy rounders use it. I've got a friend with a 48 anglia with no room up front that uses it.


Jay

 

yeah hell its been done before .. nascar?
ask rouge he has one on his rpu .. I am sure its fine and you can always change out the pully on that alt . also build a sheetmetal cover shield for it , but i dont think road grime will be a problem . just keep it clean like the reat of the car .. awsome job

 

intresting..didnt know about this..tell us more.

 

Race mate alternators. It may kill the vibe you're going after, but it's clean and simple. I think it's a short pump too. They make it for other engines as well. Just get the double belt setup if you're worried about tossing a belt. Then all you have is a crank and w. pump pulley.
Jay

 

well if the "looks" of it dont "kill the vibe" as you put it..the cost sure will..over $600 bucks..wow

 

gidaver - GREAT suggestion - looks liek these guys already did it

heres a link to their website - they happen to be in san diego - so im gonna try to contat, etc and will keep posted (on seperate - non hijacked thread)

sorry ModelAMafia

 

Yeah, it's not a 'low buck' solution by any means.


Jay

 

total performance use to make a kit for this back in the70's.the small drive pulley will it turn faster.

 

No.

You do not have to pull the trans to change the belt. You simply remove the 3 torque converter bolts, slide the torque conveter back and replace the belt. Have you ever worked on an early 80's FWD car with v-belts? Changing a belt on my set up is MUCH eaiser...

 

Why not use this on the tranny tail shaft or on the rear end. It is designed to charge at very low RPM and by using the Harley cut out switch you would have to worry about overspinning it.

Also using this on the driveshaft you wouldn't have any belt drive issues. It would just look like one of thos 48-53 truck parking brake units mounted on the drive shaft.

Just my $.02

 

Except your pulley is mounted behind the flexplate. Means you would have to remove the TQ and the flexplate if you had an issue. Besides I would hate to think what would happen if the rear main let go.