I'm going with GM intermediate front disc brakes and 55 Chevy drums out back on the 46 PU, along with a 4-speed. If'n I use a 60-63 GM truck master cylinder, what else do I need for plumbing the brakes? Will this M/C even work with my application?
IIRC, a drum master won't work on disk brakes - I don't recall if it's volume or pressure, but I do know that I was advised to be sure to use the right master.
I use a 74 chevy 1/2 ton disc NON POWER master for this application. Autozone shows part # nm1581 for a new unit $39.95.. Do not let the counter kid look it up( he will try and sell you a nm1521= for power brakes ! ) Good luck Dave
I forgot to mention......I'm trying to keep the firewall clean/period-worthy (HAMB-friendly 1960's). Will the above M/C comply with my wishes?
Brett, It's a double cyl. unit. I have one installed on a 39 chevy 4 door sedan. I mounted it in the stock location and use the stock pedals. It took a little fab work, but not a big deal. Btw, the 39 uses 74 camaro rotors/calipers and a 57 chevy rear end. I left the 39 m/cyl in place and gutted it. Then welded a mounting plate to the frame and crossmember . Made up a longer pushrod and good to go.Then a little hard line plumbing( my favorite part of the job ! ) This car has a manual trans and the clutch/brake pedals pivot off of the m/cyl casting.. Is your pickup similar ? Dave
Don't have the original pedals. Dad and I did a butcher job on an old set from an early '60s PU, but that was when it had 4 drums. I've went with a MII setup with S10/Camaro/Monte/Malibu discs up front, but want to keep the firewall as clean as possible.
Sorry......I know I'll need a proportioning valve and a residual valve for the front. Will I need a residual valve for the back? Will this M/C even work with what I want to run (Disc/Drum)?
Brett, the cyl i specd. for you is disc/drum.. and you only need an rpv for the rear. ( and only ! if it is still mounted under the floor.) If it is up on the firewall, gravity pretty much takes care of the problem. Dave
I put 75 c-10 brakes on my 65 several years ago. I used a non-power 75 master cylinder, has 1" bore. Before I put a brake booster on, it would pull left or right when applying the brakes, inconsistent. After the booster, stop on a dime. Miles on this brake system? 200,000 miles and did all the research and changover work myself. I'd put a booster on it. Modify the booster to have it mounted directly to the firewall or under the floor if through floor pedals.
Are you using both sides of the '60-'63 master cylinder for the brakes only, or are you using one side for a hydraulic clutch? If you're planning on using the hydraulic clutch, I recommend against it. You need a dual reservoir master cylinder for your brakes. Here's why: I replaced the hard lines on my '54 Buick, new wheel cylinders, new rubber lines, new brake job, and the emergency brake was properly adjusted. The right rear wheel cylinder blew a seal, and coated the inside of the brake drum with fluid. Since it was a single reservoir master cylinder, I had zero brakes. With a manual trans, I slammed down through the gears to First, and stood up out of my seat on the e-brake. From 45 miles per hour with a loooooong braking distance, the car still blew through the intersection. A vehicle will NOT stop on one rear drum. -Brad
OK.....Can't use THAT one! Another thread mentioned a M/C from a 61-68 IH truck or Travelall. Does this one have dual reservoirs on the brake side? Oh, and yes, I AM running a hydraulic clutch and would like to keep it to one unit on the firewall. Thanks all!
Why not check the bore size catalog for the 60-62 side-by-side and compare it with the stock master that was for those discs? Bear in mind that the 60-62 has the clutch bore on the p*** side and brake bore is on the driver side. The guts in each bore differ slightly, so just remove the snap rings to swap the guts....that's if you are using homemade pedals or Ansen pedals. Stock 60-62 pedals will be reversed so then there would be no reason to swap the guts. If you know how to build a car, and maintain it, there is no reason not to trust a single MC. Handbrake is mandatory of course.
Just my guess, but the year range is wrong? because 67 should have been the first year for federal required dual circuits....and something older would be single?
IIRC, there was a thread that stated they "thought" the IH M/C was, in fact, a split system with 2 outlet ports on the brake side and one on the clutch side. Can anyone verify this info as fact?
I'd advise to stay away from old IH brake parts. I was given a piece of advice several years ago, "Don't design your car around Edsel parts."
Again: I replaced the hard lines on my '54 Buick, new wheel cylinders, new rubber lines, new brake job, and the emergency brake was properly adjusted. The right rear wheel cylinder blew a seal, and coated the inside of the brake drum with fluid. Since it was a single reservoir master cylinder, I had zero brakes. With a manual trans, I slammed down through the gears to First, and stood up out of my seat on the e-brake. From 45 miles per hour with a loooooong braking distance, the car still blew through the intersection. A vehicle will NOT stop on one rear drum. Brand new parts. Less than a few thousand miles on them. Being 4-wheel drum brakes, I always gave PLENTY of time to stop at intersections. So please, tell me what I did wrong? -Brad
The early 60s IHC master is the same as the Chevy ,single brake and clutch combined. There was a whole **** load of early 60s sportscars that had disk/drum systems with a single M/C. That M/C has 1-1/8 bores so pushs a fair bit of fluid. You will need a residial ck for the rear and most likely a Prop valve also. I think it will work fine,only thing is to keep pedal effort down is you may need to increase the leverage on the brake pedal a bit.
Brand new parts. Less than a few thousand miles on them. Being 4-wheel drum brakes, I always gave PLENTY of time to stop at intersections. So please, tell me what I did wrong? -Brad[/quote] Simple I never trust a new wheel cylinder with out first pulling it apart to make sure it was ***embled right. Have seen several that had damaged cups/cups in backwards, may have been the wrong[undersize] cup also. Parts quality has went down hill from 45 years ago when I first got in the parts biz I'll tell you. Using a dual cylinder in it's self is not a gaurentee of still having some brakes if one side fails. If the system does not have enough pedal travel for the internals of the M/C to make a physical connection you still have no brakes. Recently worked on a 53 Chevy Sedan Del. that was put on a 80s mid size GM ch***is and used the doner cars swing pedal and M/C booster. Could not get the system to bleed. Problem turned out to be pedal hit floor board before second half of M/C started working. Got it bled finely by some backwoods engineering. Told owner he needed to re-design pedal etc. And sometimes **** just happens. You can not expect the world to be perfectly safe no matter what laws/regulations the Gov. comes up with.
Thanks Johnny Can you verify that the IH M/C has a divided reservoir? Does it have 2 brake outlet ports? Any help is appreciated.
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