hello i had some questions about or anyone else on here has pics and advice on a front parallel leaf set up, i have a stock chevy i-beam that sits upon 2 parallel leafs like so, and i am running side(traditional)steering with a f 100 box, is there anyway i could minimize the effects of bumpsteer? or could you give me examples? thanx for any help,
Not an expert, but all the factory parallel leaf setups i have seen run the end of the pitman arm very close to the same location as the rear shackle. That should minimise bump steer.
I can't help you on the bump steer, but a few items stood out on the photos. Your flexible brake hoses look like they are taking the long way around the block. Are the axle bolts the right grade? Do they need washers under the heads? The bolts holdng the steering arm to the spindle seem a tad long. Do the king pins and tie rod ends need grease? I am not trying to criticize. I hope it does not come across that way, and in any case the picture might not be telling the whole story. Just suggesting areas that potentially can be refined.
the brake hoses are long but do the job, as far as the grade of the bolts they are grade 8 and the length of the other bolts are not that long, but i do apreciate the concerns as far as the drag link pic goes i will get one up asap
by the way that sideway shock lookin thingy is a steering stabalizer or band aid as it sometimes refered to
So have you been driving it and experienced bump steer? Or are you just anticipating it? Looks to me like your steering box should come forward a fair bit. Oh, and you need some lock nuts on the drag link.
well i was using the original chevy steering box(1940 year) that came with the truck but switched over to a f-100 box that i got at a local junkyard, and i got the box tight and all just trying to reduce the amount of bumpsteer? and looking for more ideas and suggestions like yours as well, and yes i have experienced bumpsteer but not at much as when i was useing the original box
31 dan thanx for pics first of all, and is that the original chevy frame? and how is your ride? Bumpsteer?
If, when looking at the rear spring bolt, (from the side-not down) the draglink p***es it, your golden.
I think the other thing you need is to have your drag link near parallel to the road (as the axle moves, you don't want the drag link to change its length too much). But it is hard to acheive. You would have to bend your steering arm down and move your box up to try to make the link level. Not easily done. My '37 has dropped axle and stock steering. Drag link goes up at a angle and yes, it has bump steer. Worst case is going over a slight rise in road at speed. I try not to overcorrect, just ride it out. Sorry, I can't be of more help.
Here's a couple of pics of the steering on my '46 Chevy 1/2T project, which might help you out. Couple of things are just loosely bolted together for now, as they'll be coming apart before final ***embly. I had to heat & bend the steering arm for clearance to the shock body & axle and also the tie rod. I also had to lengthen the pitman arm 1-1/4" to keep the drag ling parallel, which is important in eliminating bump-steer.
I ran the stock leaf spring set up on my 40 1/2 ton for six years. I used the stock steering box and had no problem with it, I have always run a big block in this truck. The drag link you are using looks to be too long for the setup. I would look for a stock steering box and drag link. Got any picks of the whole truck?
I never had bump steer on my '34 or '36 Chevy PUs...but the susps/axle/steering were all stock... My friend John Pickle did a spring-over on his '31 Chevy PU (stock otherwise) with no bump-steer... .
How is that drag link? parallel to ground? looks angled from pic, and someone correct me, but it should be parallel? mine is with no problems since i added the steering stabalizer..
John was an awesome guy and talented artist and builder...saw his name here and had to chime in...we miss you John
thanx for all the input and pics as well on the last person that posted your pics with a stabalizer, it looks to be a similar set up to mine, but what king of steering arms are you using? and it looks like you heated and bent your main steering arm as well, to make the drag link parallel with ground correct?
take a piece of paper and draw out the arc of your steering rod in relation to the axles travel up and down. try different angles and you will see that the arcs will have different affects on your steering arm. the axle has a slight arc due to the fact front of the spring is mounted right on the frame horn. And your steering rod will have different arcs depending on how far down the steering pitman arm goes down. You will see it when you draw it out. Find the right combo that has the least amount of difference. Don,t kno if you can follow what i said gggg but the angle with least amount of difference is the sweet spot to minimize bump steer and it doesnt necessarily havto be horizontal to the ground. most stock steerings have an angle.