Does anyone know how to do this conversion and still maintain gas pedal starter function. I need to know how to wire it so it will still work. The alternator I have is a three wire external regulator type.
**** that have the generator freshened up at local re-builder. nothing wrong with a good generator just as reliable . " that gen is gonna strand you gotta get a one wire alt " is ********
Since the generator provides a grounding path for the accelerator switch relay, you will need to do the same with the alternator. What I would do is to wire the relay wire originally going to armature of generator to the field wire of the alternator and try it out. Since the charging light is wired from field to the ignition switch and lights with engine not running, the same should happen with the starting relay. Look over some of the alternator diagrams in the tech section, your relay will wire similar to the charging light (or not charging), but the side that goes to the ignition will have the carb mounted starter in between relay and ignition switch. PM me if you need a diagram. Or you could listen to f'ing Mr Haney and stay with the generator.
my f-bomb was unprofesional sorry. i just sick a all the guys tellin me my generators are unreliable will leave me stranded. with a generator you can at least service it on roadside. alternator fails then what ?? why would you wanna coach this poor guy into getting rid of his generator. give me a reason why alternators are the way to go just because boyd and lobeck put em in their cars is not good enough reason for me. maybee he should put a sbc crate motor in it as well.
poor guy was just asking how to do it! I have 9 different 50's cars that all have generators in them and they work just fine. But if he wants to go to an alternator then he makes the call. I myself like generators, except at idle speeds at night, man those lights go dim. Have you ever noticed how the idiot light on generator systems (GM, Chrysler) start to light (dimly) when you put excessive loads (heater motor, high beams, brake lights, radio, etc.) And when you rev the engine up the light gets a little brighter. What happens is that the generator armature is providing more voltage than the battery terminal (since the current regulator and voltage regulator are telling the generator to charge more). The idiot light is wired between the armature and the battery (thru ignition switch), so any difference in voltage will light the idiot light. The funny thing is that alternator cars can do this if the internal diode trio goes bad, and causes .7V (diode drop) across the idiot light. Oh, and BTW: No way SBC, stay with the nailhead, great engine. SBC is just plain cheap and a dime a dozen. bulkwag: Here is a 56 Buick wiring diagram to use for reference. The green wire from the starter relay is the one that should go to the field terminal of the alternator. Good luck.
I was told if you get a 1 wire alternator you shouldn't have much of problem. I have not done it yet do to the fact that when got the car the generator took a **** on the guy I bought it from ,so it has a new generator
Mr Haney, it seems you have a bit of pent up hostility and happen to also be slightly opinionated. When the two mix... we get you. Please allow me to address a few of your points... "i just sick a all the guys tellin me my generators are unreliable will leave me stranded." If a generator is in good working order and properly maintained, it should soundly support the electrical draw of the vehicle it is in if stock components are still being utilized. If additional electrical components have been installed, the generator may have difficulty powering them and the original components at the same time. However, due to the fact that many old generators have not been rebuilt, are not correctly polarized with the regulator when installed, the regulator is not correctly adjusted and both parts are not properly maintained, they can not provide the amperage and "trouble-free" operation that an alternator typically provides. Hence, the blanket statement that you have been told, can ring true. "with a generator you can at least service it on roadside. alternator fails then what ??" THAT is quite a statement, sir. I take it that you constantly carry all parts of a generator in your vehicle at all times for any failure that may occur? A full armature replacement on the side of the road is not a problem for you? I doubt that wouldn't cause a tow truck to make an appearance. However, an alternator failure could be simply handled by getting a replacement from just about any major auto parts store. A few simple hand tools and the replacement alternator would get you back on the road a helluva lot quicker than trying to find someone to repair the generator in an event that it does have a failure. "give me a reason why alternators are the way to go" Others have listed reasons why an alternator typically operates "better" than a generator and I believe I have outlined a few viable points above also. To reiterate a few of those points I will list them here : 1. High cost of rebuilding generators. Alternators are typically cheaper to buy. 2. Difficulty finding a competent generator rebuilder in some areas. All major auto parts stores stock alternators. 3. Generators typically produce low output at idle. Alternators typically produce ample power for all the cars electrical needs at any speed. 4. A new regulator needs to be correctly polarized. An alternator does not. 5. Generators and regulators typically require maintenance and possibly adjustment to keep them in top working order. Alternators do not. If those do not strengthen the discussion and help you understand the reasons to install an alternator, I am afraid you may have missed the point. Buikwag was simply asking how to convert his electrical system to utilize the stock starter switch with a typically cheaper and better electrical charging source. You clearly do not know the answer to his question so please do us all a favor and shut the **** up. Opps, that was unprofessional. Buikwag : Here is a link for you regarding the operation of your stock starter switch when an alternator has been installed. Sorry for the rant and good luck. http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/PushGasToStartWithAlternator.htm
Sorry to bump this but I just wanted to add for anyone who is doing the gm 1 wire alternator conversion, that all you have to do is move the white wire from the gen to the bat on the regulator. And move the green (starter relay) from the gen to the field on the regulator. The other end of the white wire goes to the alternator and thats it. Basically everyone on here said this but I just wanted to make it easy for the next guy. Just finished this weekend project and there is a lot of conflicting info on the internet and forums. My generator pooped out (again) and I had a 1-wire laying around. Dont care what others think, just happy to be cruising a few nights a week.
Cub8556, do you (or anyone for that matter) know the correct wiring for a GM 3-wire alt? I have a rebuilt 63amp Delco that I'd like to install. Thanks
Century, I'm not totally sure but is your delco an externally regulated alt? If it has an R and a F terminals then I believe its an externally regulated alternator. If it says 1 and 2 then it would be internally regulated.
Maybe one of our more veteran HAMB could help out. I looked at the diagrams and got a few questions. The Bat terminal will go to the main battery. #1 terminal will go to the ignition, and #2 is optional i think (if the #2 terminal, if it is not used, causes the regulator to revert to internal sensing and pick up the battery voltage at the main battery wire on the back of the alternator). I'm not sure if you can use the starter relay thats on the regulator for #1 terminal. btw Century nice looking ride http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm
See the diagram below. You can jumper from the battery post on the alternator to terminal # 2. Then you would just need the wire from the charge indicating light. If not using a charge light and you are using a gauge you can connect terminal 2 to the unused pole on the starter that was originally used to supply power to the points during cranking, the momentary connection is all you need to get the altenator working then upon shutdown it cant backfeed the ignition circut. Works well. I don't know why the diagram shows an alternator and calls it a generator....
If generator/regulators are the hot set up, then why aren't they still used instead of alternators?...
I'll trade the O/P 2 SBC's for the 1 Nailhead, anyday, and anytime, have a good straight 8 Buick, I'll throw in a few BBC's. TR
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