Squirrel mentioned "bubbling" a trans line to hold a hose clamp. Is there a special tool for this, or is there a poor boy way to do it? I need to do this on occasion, and have never been able.
I just use the double flare tubing tool, but don't complete the flare, just use the the little thingy that goes in the hole of the tubing that expands the tube, then stop.
A light squeeze with the double flare mandrel of a flaring tool set does the trick nicely. Experiment with a s**** of tube to determine how much tube to leave sticking out of the clamp bar.
While I'm sure there's a better way, I used my trusty double flare tool. Worked like a charm for me. With a single flare, it would probably be sharp enough to cut the hose over time.
They do make tools for the job. Here's one source. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/to/tubing_beaders.html
Before I had a double flaring tool I used to put a regular flare in the tubing and then file it down and smooth any sharp edges. Never had one like that fail either.
Aircraft Tool and Supply www.aircraft-tool.com has them too. I just got my holiday catalog in the mail the other day. Lots of sheet metal tools there on my Santa wish list. HellRaiser HellRaiser
The pressure in the cooler lines is transmission lube pressure which depends on transmission oil temperature, pump flow (engine speed), and internal leakage. Worst case scenario is high engine speed and cold transmission oil, but it shouldn't get too much above 50 psi. There is a type of hose made specifically for transmission cooler line applications, as many fuel hoses aren't good for 50 psi or the heat.
If you don't have a flare tool. Take a regular compression fitting, the kind with the ferrule and tighten it on your line, then through the fitting away. You are left with a perfect "bubble" on your hard line..you can cut off the nut part.
The "EZ-Beader" tools have 3/8 for sure because I have one, Don't know why they don't show in the catalog. They do have one listed at 1/8.
Forgot to mention earlier that I prefer to use compression couplings and flared connections instead of hoses with hose clamps. Be sure the lines are well supported to prevent vibration and other damage.
Some cool ideas here, but I agree with dodger, hard line is the way to go on a ******. A rubber hose is a potential source of failure! (My heavy pick-up had a cooler for the ****** that used some rubber line, had close to 1K on it and had obvious signs of weepage, left it off during the rebuild after my wreck.) I usually have at least part of the original line that I cut and mate to a new custom bent piece with compression fittings, fool proof. Now, as for just getting by, extra clamps are much better, as is slipping the hose way up on the hard line. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do!
Slide a br*** ferrell on the line then sil-flux it onto the line. I like this method better cause the bump is farther back on the tube were it'll do a better job >>>>.
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