Well - it's about 12:30 . . . working on a big pot of ****y *** chili for a tailgate party tomorrow night - thought I'd start the first of a few posts on my 1934 Ford frame fabrication. The car has no name, but I've used the term 'Snapperhead' for quite a few years . . . so what the hell . . . I'm running with it. This is my first complete frame construction/build, so I'll share what I've learned along the way. But first - my thoughts on what I'm trying to build and why: a) Complete 1934 Frame - starting with just a set of ASC frame rails. I really wanted to make my own frame - as I'm a picky ******* and I like to do things my way. Also, I wanted something unique - that you can't just plunk down 3 G's and purchase from SocCal or other rod shop . . . good, bad or ugly . . . it is the way I want it. I built the frame jig last winter -- it rotates like an engine stand (very glad I did!). Every little thing take LOTS of time - so if you're headed down this path, you better be prepared for a long haul b) Application: Blown 392 Hemi, Tremec TKO 5 speed and Frankland Q.C. rear. Given the huge engine, heavy weight (even with aluminum heads, etc) and the high horsepower, I want this to be as strong as possible. c) Ideas Along the Way: I'll let you know what I'm thinking along the way -- with tons of pictures, details, etc.. I'll also let you know where I've sourced some of the parts I'm using - learned a few things in this area!. I'd rather show too much, than not enough . . . maybe it will help the next guy. There is lots to think about - hopefully some of my ideas are sound . . . I'm sure some you'll probably laugh at . . . WTF - we can all learn from one another. =============================== 1) Frame Jig - With Rails Mounted and Prepped: It was a very good decision to build a frame jig that rotates. I've been working on one of the rails and it is damn nice to be able to sit in one of my rolling chairs and work on it - and it makes welding/fabrication much easier. Things to think about: It is far better to do ALL the prep work on the rails - before you start welding ANYTHING to them. I spent lots of time reworking different areas of the frame - to straighten them out, etc.. I made a "flange bender" so that I could rework/bend the flanges and get them as close to 90 degrees as possible. Also, I spent lots of time with a hand body file, big hammers, etc - reworking the edges, etc.. I sanded everything inside the rails - end to end. This insures that all my welds have good clean steel - also used Acetone to clean everything prior to welding. Take the time and get everything the way you want it - don't rush and jump into the boxing plate phase. All the prep time will same you tons of aggravation later on. 2) Cage Nuts, Boxing Plate Stand Offs, Stiffners, Thread Plates, etc: a) I purchased a bunch of 3/8 NF cage nuts from MAC's - very similar to the ones that Ford used. I welded them inside the upper rails - so that I can easily mount/fasten the body down. b) Thread Plates - Front and Rear: On a 34 Ford there are TWO major mount points that are TOO close to the edge of the frame to use cage nuts - they'll be outside the boxing plates (I'm doing a step box style). These two holes are the furthest front and furthest rear mounting points. You'll see where I made a 2" x 1/2" plates and welded them into these two areas. I"ll drill/tap them when the body is mounted. c) Boxing Plate Stand Offs: I created a bunch of boxing plate stand offs - and welded them about every 8" or so - to set the exact height of the boxing plates before I weld them. I'm using a "step boxing" method - where the plate fits inside the frame rails. This is probably the strongest boxing method - as you end up with a really good penetration weld (that you're not trying to grind/smooth out). It is a bit of a pain in the *** to trim all the plates and get everything ready to weld, but I think the results are stronger and better in the long run. d) 1 1/8" Square Tube Stiffeners: I decided that I wanted to add some square tubing stiffeners to tie the inner/outer rails together in different areas. I especially wanted them in the areas where the X-Member is going to come back into the frame (front/rear). I added them in 6 different spots on the frame. On the Mill: Wanted to make sure that water would not puddle/set in the rails - so I notched them such that the water will flow past them. I'll have a drain on the rail to let the water out. Added inside the frame rails - where the X-Members will come in and a few other places. I will drill a few 1/2" holes in the boxing plates so that I can rosette weld/tack the inner plates to the square tubes. Am I going overboard . . . maybe, but the engineer side of me thinks that it is good to tie the inner/outer rails together - especially where other major components are coming into them. Well . . . enough for tonights post . . . I'll go onto 'Part 2' tomorrow . . .
Wow, clean metal, immaculate prep, nice welds........................somethings wrong, you are doing everything right!!!! Great ideas, cant wait to follow your progress.
I hear yah . . . that is why a rev limiter is a good friend! I'm running an offset distributor (to clear the Donovan blower manifold) with a MSD 7535 box. I know . . . not old school, but it is nice to be able to pull timing back out when the boost comes up and to also have red line settings, etc.. The last thing I want is to detonate it -- just hammers everything when you do.
I'm about to box my 32 frame using the step method and I really like the idea of welding in guide plates to set the boxing plate depth nice and even along the rails. Thanks for the tip it will be put to use.
we've been collecting ideas for our frame. And boy this helps out alot. There are so many good builders on this site.
Part 2: Today I worked out how to strengthen the area where the C-Notch will be added. When you cut the inner/outer frame rails to add the C-Notch filler, you really weaken the area right above the C-Notch. Given that the rear Model-A cross-member is behind this area and the whole weight of the rear of the car will be trying to flex the weakened area, I decided that I reallly need to strengthen this area. I sat there on my welding stool and pondered quite a few different things -- from adding a third plate in the middle to cutting out a 1/4" stiffener plate and welding it inside the outer rail. I really wanted some substantial steel in the area - so I started thinking about how it would be nice if I had a curved piece of 1/2" steel. Looked around the shop and all I had was a 4 foot bar of 2" x 1/2" steel. I thought of an old mentor friend of mine who really used his oxy/acet torches to "blacksmith" all kinds of things. This got me thinking . . . . wonder if I could heat that bar up enough to bend it (on edge) and make a curved piece? What the hell - get the rosebud torch out and give er' a try. 1) Here you see how I bent the bar (though I had it mounted the other way in the vice when I bent it). I had to heat and bend it twice -- heated and bent it once, then reheated it about 2" further down the bar and bent it again. I was actually kind of surprised I could bend it . . . better to be lucky than good I guess! 2) I Drilled 4 holes through the outer frame rail - so I can add some rosette welds on the outside to further strengthen the outer frame connection. 3) I then cleaned it up and tacked the rear portion into the frame. Noticed that it didn't lie perfectly flat - and I knew that if I clamped and welded it like that, that it would probably distort the thinner frame rail. I got the oxy/acet torch out again and heated it till cherry red in the center/bent area and then clamped the front down to bend it into place. It was now perfectly flat . . . cool with me. 4) I then tacked it into the frame - didn't have time to weld it up, will get to that tomorrow. Hope this idea helps some of your guys - I thought it worked out quite well. Glad I had that piece of 1/2" strap. More tomorrow . . .
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