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1bbl to 2bbl for chevy 250 questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by J Hardcore, Nov 23, 2008.

  1. J Hardcore
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 28

    J Hardcore
    Member

    Ok guys I know this has been talked about before but I havent found my answers.

    I have a 66 c10 with a 250 in it and it runs like ****! the only thing I havent replaced is the 1bbl rochester carb. Its done for sure. Have heard of guys putting 2bbl holleys or webbers on them but I havent been able to find intake manifolds or adapters to do this. Do I need to have an adapter made to get this to work or what? I have checked everything for leaks, timing is on, points, plugs, wires, all thats left is this damn carb and I do not want to put another 1bbl on it. figured someone on here would have the answers I'm looking for.
     
  2. MXmaniac
    Joined: Oct 22, 2007
    Posts: 45

    MXmaniac
    Member
    from Denton, TX

    Tom Langdon has the adapters, carb, and can walk you through fabricating a linkage. I was real close to going this route before I got my stock carb working better.

    http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartpro/
     
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,940

    squirrel
    Member

    Did you try to overhaul the carb? if somethings loose in it, or the accelerator pump is not working, or ther's dirt in a p***age, or whatever, it can run like **** and a $12 kit and an hour's work can make a world of difference.

    It's not rocket science :)
     
  4. J Hardcore
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 28

    J Hardcore
    Member

    already rebuilt the carb no luck
     
  5. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 9,034

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    If it were mine, I'd still try another 1 bbl carb before going through the time and expense of converting it to another carb setup just to find that the problem was elsewhere. Be aware that the points distributors in the 230/250 engines were famouse for bearing and shaft wear, causing erratic running.
     
  6. J Hardcore
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 28

    J Hardcore
    Member

    I pulled the distributor out as well and the pin holding the gear in was coming out. I did fix that and the gear looks brand new, and the shaft doesnt seem to have any problems either. Honestly it looks like a pretty new distributor. You know I heard from many people that these motors were awesome. It seems to me that everything around the motor to make it run is **** though from my understanding :)
     
  7. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,940

    squirrel
    Member

    you can get a 4bbl intake and put a 2 bbl adapter on it, but it's not cheap.

    Or you could get a cheezy adapter and put a 2bbl on the 1bbl intake

    http://www.wpsracing.com/cpprcaad.html

    scroll down to the second to last item

    (If you could better describe "it runs like ****!" we might help you figure out what's wrong)
     
  8. J Hardcore
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 28

    J Hardcore
    Member

    Ok so it starts up and idles once its warm. Once under load while driving it pops and stalls, I have to feather the gas pedal to keep it running and even that doesnt always help. SOmetimes it acts like its getting no power at all so when I put the pedal to the floor it seems like its getting half the power and after a few seconds it finally opens up and goes. Its blowing black smoke out of the rear end here and there. I tried adjusting the mixture screw on the carb and dont really get anywhere with that.
     
  9. panic
    Joined: Jan 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,450

    panic

    when I put the pedal to the floor it seems like its getting half the power and after a few seconds it finally opens up and goes. Its blowing black smoke out of the rear end

    Your choke is stuck.
     
  10. J Hardcore
    Joined: Oct 2, 2008
    Posts: 28

    J Hardcore
    Member

    choke is lubed and opens and closes great
     

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