I've done a search and have put together a plan for my project. I'm posting it here to get it approved by people who know more than me (and there's a lot of those on the HAMB.) I'm getting my 65 Buick Wildcat into daily driver shape. It still has the factory paint with no rust (southern CA car). The only flaws are minor collision damage and normal wear and tear. My plan is this: 1)Straighten and fill all damage and cover those areas with 2K high build Urethane primer 2) Block the whole car with 120 grit adding primer as needed. 3) Cover entire car with epoxy primer/sealer. 4)Wet sand entire car with red scotch brite. 5) Final paint with single stage enamel (Tractor and machinery semigloss black) My main concern is making the finish durable and last 3+ years.
flat black is overdone. Tractor paint is for tractors. at least use a flattened single stage, then when you want a better paint job just scuff it and go. pick a color that is not black or white.
Hey, A quick question 'bout "no rust"? Are you sure about that.... even out here in southern California this era GM rusted! Check the front fender lower skirt areas, and anywhere that stainless steel makes contact with carbon steel. Do you plan on removing the factory oem lacquer finish prior to metal work and your first coat of high-build primer? Most product lines today, suggest an epoxy primer beneth plastic filler repairs, but I've never been a fan of this advise! Most preminum epoxy primers offer good build if not over reduced, and therefore , unless you plastic filler work is really rough, shouldn't need a high build primer. Spend your time getting your filler work "dead nuts" and don't relie on high build primers to "straighten" your job. You won't save you much, if any time, and you sure won't save any money! Once you've finished your filler work, two ,three coats of epoxy should get you close to being ready for finish. A final coat of epoxy, sightly over reduced will serve as a sealer if desired. A wet sand with an idiot stick with 220 followed by your alkyd enamel top coat should answer for it. 2-3 years max. is about what you'd expect this paint job to live, given it's an alkyd. Washing the car and use of a car cover or a garage will add years of service to the paint. S****ey devils c.c. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork''
Tractor paint aside, here's my go at it. Make sure, make double sure there isn't any rust on there. Most epoxy primers are going to ask for 40 on bare metal and 80 on exsisting finishes. I'd stick with 80 on your finish since it doesnt seem to need much work, you don't want to introduce deep sand scratches into an already decently straight body. Maybe even 120 but check the tech sheets. Blast on 2 coats of epoxy to give you a starting point. I like to keep my filler work seperate in layers from the rest of the finish. (Epoxy under and over) Finish your filler work again in 80 to 120. The come back with some more epoxy. The block with 150, then 320. Either spray a wet on wet sealer here or go right to your topcoat. I definitely reccomend a sealer though. It prevents staining into your topcoats and gives you an even surface to add color to. Topcoat as desired.
Thanks for all the input. I've decided that if i'm going to put this much work into it I may as well go glossy and put real paint on it. However, that means taking longer to do the body work. Can I scuff the whole car with 120 and coat it with epoxy and work on it as I can while still driving it? It would be 4-6 months until I get it in the booth.
I would still go with 80 on a DA to give the primer a good bite. Try to kep it dry, the primer is pourous and will rust. Nothing major but you're not 100% protected.
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