Hey guys, I'm pretty new on here. Got the word from a hotrodder at a swap meet in Dallas. I've been looking for a model a four door for a while and finally found one!! It's a 1930 and it's on it's way down to Texas from Minnesota. I'll put pics up as soon as I get it! Anyway, I was wondering if the frame boxing plates will be the same on this as the 2 door? I would like to order them soon but didn't know if the frame was the same length. Thanks for any help.
yes , all model A ford frames for any body style are the same . whose boxing plates will you be using? i was looking for some for my current project and just ended up making my own . not hard to do you do know that a `30 fordor has a lot of wood , and the subrails are wood too?
If you are interested, I just used a set of Dagels lasercut boxing plates, and they fit really well. I'd recommend them.
I second this statement..I too recently installed Dagels Boxing plates, and their X member and brake set up and pedal..nice stuff fits right. although as also said above by 36-3window, they are not that hard to make. trace the inside edge of the frame onto some card board and wala..you got patterns.
I was looking at the Dagels and then I found someone on here that makes em. I was gonna check with him to see what the deal was. I could probably make them, but not to the precision that I can probably order/buy. Thanks for all the input and you guys will definately be hearing more from me soon! Thanks again.
I used Rocky Mountain Hot Rod for boxing plates on my 1931 Model A frame. They fit nicely and required very little effort to make fit perfectly. There web site has all the info you will need. www.rockymountainhotrod.com
I found it was easier/cheaper to go to the weld shop and get plates and cut them myself. My buddy also said that mine were more sturdy then his and his boxing plates he bought didn't fit as good as he expected.
Just buy flat strap, 6" x 20' long, and do it yourself with a welder and plasma torch. I just did this on a 31 tudor and it was real easy and alot more cost effective. Save your money for something thats harder to fab.
Just make sure you are using 1/8'' plate or thicker. Are you going to install them yourself? Dont forget to weld all the nuts in 1st for body hold down points etc.
Yeah, I'm gonna put em in myself. I would love to make them, but I don't have a plasma cutter. I have been looking at the Dagels and they look pretty good. I like the idea of having the notch to keep some of the weld after grinding. Thanks for all the input.
use the search function, someone on here makes the boxing plates and there like $130 shipped. Toast just got a set and the worked out great.
i think if you buy Dagels X member you get the boxing plates for 99 bucks..or at least when i bought mine thats what i paid..about 5 months back. not sure what they go for by them selfs. just throwing it out there
I also used Gary Dagel's boxing plates, X member and brake setup. They fit perfectly and only needed trimmed in the center. Because Gary's X member comes with ovals cut out kind of like the 36 and up stock X member I put ovals in my boxing plates before I welded them in. This way I can access the body bolts by hand and didn't need to worry about welding in nuts. They can also be made if you have the equipment or have them made, but when you buy them with the X member you get a price break..............at least I did. IMHO
i can relate to that..I was just bringing another option to the table for him..99% of the time I give a HAMBer or HAMB vendor a shot..thats why im an Alliance member... I liked the Dagel stuff..that was my reason..not the price I did the same thing chopped did to his plates..looks cool that way and easy to get at bolts and nuts.
How critical is the cross member? I am looking to put a 350 and 2 speed powerglide or 350 turbo in. With this, do I need the cross member? I don't want to have problems later, but I am going to build this car on a budget also. Any opinions? THanks
you gotta have some type of cross member..its your rear support for the engine and trans. ***embly doesnt have to be the X style cross member..but a rear support member is necessary
You don't need a plasma cutter, get yourself a jigsaw with a metal blade or an angle grinder with a cut off wheel. A Model "A" frame is almost straight, not really any difficult cuts to make.
Yes, it is critical for a couple of reasons. First you need to hang the trans off something that will support the weight, and second you mush have this member distribute the load over the entire ch***is. If you can't afford to buy a kit, they are relatively easy to fab, take a look at some pictures and weld up your own. I personally feel that an X member or K member is manitory when building an early Ford. Take a look at the 35/40 X members. You need a X or K member especially with the 28/31 Ford frames, because without boxing and an X or K member they are like a noodle. If you only put a single piece of tubing across as a trans member the frame will be allowed to twist. This may be good in a drag car but for a street driven car because you want to be able to maintain suspension geometry all of the time...........................IMHO
That pretty much answers my question. I knew I needed something, but I had seen some guys using just a single crossmember to mount the ****** to. I guess since this is THE HEART of the car, I will just go ahead and get the X member with the boxing plates. It might be a couple more weeks since the new wife (2 months) is just warming up to the idea if this "old car" bieng in the garage!! Thanks guys.
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