Flathead Block Useable?

Well this is block no.3. First two had issues (both 8BA style), this 59A looked pretty good when taking it down. I think it was used for an industrial motor in its last assignment (I was told an icehouse). No cracks that I can find. A little rust in the valve area. Standard bore, even crank was standard. I had it tanked to clean out the gunk and noticed the front water pump area on the passenger side. I thought it was sealer when I first took it apart. Upon furthr instpection it looks to have been broken right between the two holes of the pump. Someone brazed it together again. It is fairly strong as I pried on it some and i don't think it is an area that bears a load (going into 39 truck). I think the other outer bolts bear the load. Has anyone seens this problem before? Should I just grind it smooth and go?

http://picasaweb.google.com/joptaylo/59Flathead#

A mild hop up is planned.

Happy Thanksgiving

John

 

I'm not seeing any bronze?

 

Looks like some amateur had to change a water pump somewhere along the way and didn't know about the hidden bolt inside the pump. He pried on with a big enough bar that he broke the casting. If it's been that way for years, it'll probably last for a few more.

 

personally i wouldnt trust it its just to soft. grind it out and get some tig in there then grind smooth if you must

 

The camera flash whited out the yellowish color of the brazing. I think that is exactly what happened.

 

I'd be more worried about that big pile of metal shavings I see in the 5th picture

 

Yea grind it out and tig it. There is stress in this area from motor mount.

 

There is no pressure on that area. The bolt in the middle is just to seal the gasket. Go ahead with it.

 

The problem with block cracks is the end of the crack you can't see. Can you mag light the thing in any way to see what you are really dealing with? The one on the outside looks pretty close to the water jacket. No way would I run it without at least TIGing the visable cracks and refacing. There are some machine shops that used to have blockoff plates to presurize and check for leaks. Don't forget that it may look fine until the block is heated when running.

 

I wouldn't grind on it. I've used permatex hardening type on the gasket on surfaces that looked worse than that with no leaks...

 

Should be fine.

 

Thanks all. I will have the machine shop look at it as well. Those shavings are from trying to drill out one of two broken head studs.

 

If it ran before it'll run again

 

If crack is between the holes, it is terminated. I would just Loctite a stud into the hole so threads never have to move again, use a brass nut.