Projects Show your Floorless project - before & after pics

Old Divco shots of the front floors....Littleman

 

I hesitate to even add these after Evel and Littleman's posts - but here's my 40 Ford pickup cab, I hand formed and welded up all the the transmission hump and driveshaft tunnel pieces and notched the floor for the frame rails. It's all coated with lizard skin on top and truck bedliner stuff on the bottom.

 

but fenderless the plymouth frame is ugly as hell. also not all came with a tube axle this particular car has an independent front originaly. It does sit *****in with that widened stretched and kicked duece frame too.

 

Incredible Work guys, always love Live Wire shots. Quick question tho - Evel : How did you mount the square tubing "cage" to the frame? I've looked through those pics and can't seem to figure it out.... Been having a hell of a time trying to figure how to mount the body to my frame.

 

Heres some before and during pics of mine , they,re not after pics because it,s not finished yet.

 

Awesome. actually all posted works are great.
But, could anybody teach me some about this cage sub floor

 

This is a channel job on a 37 pickup.

 

heres a link to a post on the floors i did on my 34 tudor a while ago, i used aftermarket subrails but built the rest, i maid a flat bar frame work on the top of the frame and then cut and rolled beads in the sheet metal and welded that to the top.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7644

jeff

 

Let me get this straight,

Tube grid/cage rests over the frame (welded to the frame at the beginning of the process ?). Then the body is mounted on the cage and both are welded together (welds on pillars ?!?!).

Is this cage approach because of the channeling or to bring more strenght to the body or what ? whats the big difference between this and standard new floors ?

Thanks a lot for the pics. really helpfull
Diego

 

thanks for the pic

 

My body was on the frame when i got it, i just braced it in place cut out the junk stuff and then reconstructed where the floors atatched to the A B pillars and the back wheel wells and all the rest of the way around the back, i didnt take my body off, the doors fit well and i knew if i took it apart it would be worse to put back together.

jeff

 

There are places throughout the floor framework where it bolts to tabs on the ch***is or nuts welded into the ch***is.

 

On mine the body and the floor grid are welded together, the frame is not welded to the body at all. The body is mounted to the frame like this.

I ran some heavy wall square tubing for rocker panels and used that as something to mount the body. The floor grid is welded to the body with about 1/2 inch clearance to the frame, this way the body and floor can be removed from the frame in one piece, like a 80s gm car [no unibody]

 

I guess the other cars on the thread are the same except for the clearance ? bodies seem to be welded to the grid and not to the frame.
Then the grid is either bolted or welded to the frame.

 

heres a pic of the grid/subrails i built tonight after work for a 29 dodge coupe ive been working on, these bolt right to the top of the frame and will eventually atatch to the A and b pillars.

jeff

 

Here's a few. 31 Chevy 5 window.

 

The way we did it was we set the body up where we wanted it (channeled even to the bottom of the frame) with wood blocks and shims till it was perfect.. the we layed the
3/4 tubing flush with the edge of the frame and clamped it down (see first 2 pix) and started from there... we welded it at the A piller and B piller.. we made the cross pieces as close to the body as possible.. and ran pieces from the side of the back window down...then after it was all attached and welded we welded tabs on the frame and the body so the body can be bolted on (Like the pix above)

hope that helps..

 

Any pics of before and after floors and subrails on an 31 A coupe on 32 rails from the kickup back?
I have studied Rolf's and wondered about other ideas, particularly when trying to save as much original subrail and flooring as possible.

 

Here is my 29 Model A Tudor that my brother and I just got done tacking the flooring in.

 

My '37 didn't have much of a floor left at all when I got it. Most people would've written it off for junk. I sawed the body off all the way around at the bottom door hinge and braced it up with wood to keep it from collapsing because it was literally a cowl, roof, and back of the cab.


Once I had it in my garage nearly a year later, I rolled it on its back and squared it up as well as I could, spreading the body until I could get both doors to open and close fairly well. Measuring from the door jambs side to side(the thickest metal in the whole cab) I cut my first piece of angle iron, and welded it in, and then cut my second for the back and welded it in and braced it with some brackets from a police roll cage. I then ran two pieces top to bottom and welded them in. I done some more cross bracing with pieces of square tubing out of a BBQ grill frame, and it looks pretty decent. I have yet to skin the floor.

 

Not much, but its my 1st time........... Well, i had a friend help, he did a lot of the welding, but i got in a bit of time.

Had to do both front sides of my 50 chevy.....

Put in a dual master.... Then cut out the floor.



Framed around the MC....



Made a cover to screw on to the floor.....
(Thats not my foot, i tie my shoes.)



Rubberized!!!



Not at all as difficult as i expected. Sooooooo glad i didnt buy premade floors, it wasnt that hard to make my own.

 

Hey Jeff. Did you also build a cage floor after this ?

Thanks guys for all the info and pics. Turned out to be a great educational thread. At least for me

 

wow....there is some nice work posted above.

 

Funny I took reference shots tonight of my finished floor before the trip to the trim shop tomorrow, floor stays as is , no carpet but clear coated birch with chrome trans cover,trial fitted with blue tape to protect the firewall , there will just be shifter & e brake boots , no firewall cover either so I'll be doing a tidy wire job , I hope .Mine is simple , there are some extreme floors out there, cool thread .

 

What happened to all of evel's floor pics? Would like to see them all.

 

Here is my 50 floor

 

here is the 33 dodge/plymouth sedan were doing.
right now the car is rough, but slowly getting better.
we built a floor cage to install the new floorpans on. we will weld the panels to the square tubing. then tabs are welded to the floor cage and also on the frame/ch***is, that way it is able to be seperated.
the floor cage is made from 2 x 2, 1 x 2 AND 1 X 1 square tubing. we also built a cage for the gas tank to sit in under the rear window.
on mine doing it this way added strength since l am leaving the big hole in the roof. also the cage stregthens and stiffens the car. it also allowed me to lower the body down 2" over the frame.
with out lowering the floorpan 2", the car sat way to high on the ch***is. l am using a ch***is that was custom built for a 1929 ford roadster, so many mods had to be done on the ch***is/floorpans to make it all work together. l wll post pics when floor is finished, this is as for as we are at this time.

Later

 

Is there another link to Evels floor build would like to see more pictures...how does everyone seal up the sides of the frame to the body?