HO-HO-HO December monthly BANGER meeting

I don't think it would really matter if your leaving it 6V. May be harder to find parts for, though. If you wanna get rid of the spare one, keep me in mind!

 

I will, bud. It's not complete, it's missing the back cover...but I'll get it cleaned up and see what I figure.

 

Heres some insperation for ya. This is my buddy Logan's 29 Special. He just painted it last weekend. He pussed out though and it runs a V8

 

Had the mongrel carburetor (parts from three Holley 94s) apart a hundred times trying to fix a surge or stutter at idle, still no luck. It is running very well other than the stutter, so i guess I am making some progress.

Also dropped the oil pan to see if I can find the cause of my oil leak, way too much oil on the ground for a recently rebuilt engine. I read somebody in one of the old SOSS mags say "I didn't want to park it in my own driveway, let alone a friend's." It has a beat up old B pan and I am going to replace it with another B pan that is in much better shape, hopefully this will take care of the problem and I will be back on the road.

Tonight I dismantled a cracked B block that I got in trade and dug out the jewel of a counterbalanced crankshaft. It is happy and waiting in a corner of the shop - the B engine in the Manx does not have a counterbalanced crank and will get this one someday.

Finally, I am going on Wednesday to bring home a '33 B engine that is complete from front mount to tranny mount - including all accessories. Trying to decide if I should build another Model A (one with a roof and windows) with this or maybe a banger powered '33 highboy pickup truck... I will post some pics once I get this engine in my shop, it has some really interesting details.

Peace,
Will Kimble
www.kimblemandolins.com

 

I have thought about the early engines being used for an overhead. I've got a couple of 5 cam bearing blocks that I plan to dissect once I get the time. They are good for high lift flathead use too. If you bore the bearing journals larger, I've been told that you could get another 1/8" of lift. Another advantage of the 5 bearing cam is that you can run heavier valve springs too. That way you can run more RPM and not have to worry about valve float. I've seen people add two bearing journals and make a 3 cam bearing engine into a 5 bearing engine. They make steel blocks and bolt them where the other 2 bearings would be.There were only about 400,000 factory 5 cam bearing engines made.

 

I think the multi plate AR clutch was used to allow more foot room in a single seat dirt car, plus it cut down on the spinning mass once most of the flywheel was cut off. I have a bunch of that stuff and could post photos if anyone is interested. The splines in the flywheel wore out and caused Ford to stop making them.

 

WOW! That really looks nice, compliments to the guy that did that top covering the corners look perfect. Some details on the chassis Z'img would be nice.

 

Lovin' the look of this inlet...

...good work, fella.

 

Chris, that is a cool coupe...

I was thinking about chopping mine and recovering it as well. Do you know how many inches he wacked outa it?

Eventually I'll be going 32 rails and v8, but for now I'll be damn happy to putt-putt about

 

Here you go Fencepost, want to stray this off the banger thread:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313751

He chopped 4" outta it. The guy that did the roof is the same guy that did my seat in my coupe. Another talented guy!

 

I posted by accident in the November thread...

 

Thank Chris, 4" is what I was thinking about

OK, back to bangers!

this weekend we're gonna try and get mine going, "shouldn't" be too hard, if it was in fact an older rebuild...

 

In a previous post some one inquired about springs and another person posted as to the fact that normal/ordinary spring spreaders must be modified to work. I made 2 clips that bolted to the spring and registered against the spring eye and I welded a piece that the spreader could push against on the bottom. I had made the mistake of purchasing a "POSIES"'s rear spring and it was a bitch to install. On fronts and sagging rears I just use a 1" block or a 2x4 with a little grease if necessary. On some fronts springs a piece of 1x2 will work.

 

Well here is my project for the month.

I got the B together and in the car. Just got it running last night.

 

Sounds bitchin' daddyo! That head is sweet!

 

Sweet intake/exhaust same route i'm going love the look

 

I got mine all together tonight and fired it! The starter won't crank it over...just one turn over and it's done. I charged the battery and it still would not wing it more than one revolution. I finally hooked a 12V to just the starter and that did it. The 6V starter was giving me problems with the old engine too (barley cranking over) and I think a tight new engine with higher compression is the problem. I'm going to have the starter gone through, is there anything I can do to make it spin easier/better/stronger?? AND still keep it 6V??

 

Crazydaddyo- Sounds BITCHIN!

 

hi Will have u considered a manifold leak remember you should use the wee inserts try carefully squirting a little quick start run the inlet joints and see if it revs while idling........ or i dont know what disy you are useing but on my nissan conversion connecting the vacume advance and tweeking it on a dyno really made the motor sing smooth as now

 

When was the last time the starter was re-built

If the brushes are bad or the commutator is too worn, you are not getting enough amps to the starter motor to do the job. If you’re using the stock foot switch, make sure the contacts are fresh and not overly pitted.

 

Last time...probably 1930 I have never done anything with it. Like I said, even with the old engine it was starting to turn pretty slow. I cleaned the foot switch contacts, no help. I'm taking it tommarow for a rebuild- just didn't know if there was any "upgrade" I should do.
Thanks Daddyo!

 

so anyone on here look into improving intake port velocity on T motor? Been working the math and engineering on what can be done, would like to see what anyone else has come up with and why...or is this "supersensitive" secret stuff?

i'll show you mine if you show me yours...

also finished designing the next speedster, which if I can make a scanner work, will post the drawings.

 

Sounds like fun!

-I'd just love to see someone redo the Roof 16 Valve head- most of the drawings can be found on google patents:

1301007 (1917) or 1528568 (1923)

 

my work was done using a flathead, since an overhead is theoretically unlimited interms of ability to "modify/create" what ever you want.

 

I freshened up my starter with new brushes, a cleanup pass on the commutator, new bearings and a repo neg. cable and a 2/0 ground cable connected to the trans. After all these years grounding to the frame doesn't seem to work that well. I also installed an 8N solenoid on the starter. It cranks my 8.5 to 1 engine very well. I also installed a Fun Company 6 volt electronic regulator which makes my charging system almost as good as alternator IMO.

 

Thanks for the info Bill....with that 8N Solernoid, will the factory foot switch still work???

 

No it won't. But if you clean and replace any bad cables or connections your foot switch should work OK. In using a solenoid you usually go to a remote switch or button because the solenoid replaces your starter switch in the circuit.. I have spent quite a while trying to locate an ignition switch with start post that will fit in the dash but gave up and temporarily wired in a button type switch. I used an 8N solenoid because I already had one but I actually prefer a remote solenoid. The one in my lakes modified is under the seat. The starter switch contact is tapped and a stud or bolt is used to attach the cable similar to a V8 starter. Good clean cables that are large enough to carry the load are a critical factor with "A"'s The ground cable should be at least 0/1 and probably the other cables the same. Some people go to 8 volts but I have read that they say their light bulbs don't last. This Fun company makes electronic regulators for the "A" generator in 6, 8, or 12 volts.

 

Wildfire
To convert your generator to 12v you need to change the field coils. 12v ones are available from Mac's, Mike's etc for about $30. I had my local auto electrician convert mine and he also adapted the stock regulator to work 12v. You dont have to do anything to your starter it will work fine with the 12volts. You will need to swap the wiring on your amp meter and if your car still has the pop out ignition switch, this is polarity sensitive so you will have to swap it for a modern version.

Hope this helps.

 

Running 6v starters on 12v have been thought to cause crankshaft breakage in Model A and Model T engines. Switch to a 12v starter, it is cheaper then replacing a crankshaft. Belive me

 

2. Anyone ever make there own Dizzy from maybee a Pinto or some other common 4 cylinder engines dizzy ?


I had an old time hotrodder tell me the hot setup was to run a modified Willys distributor from a 134ci engine.

What modifications are needed to run this distributor? There is a guy on the auction site that has some NOS Willys distributors still packaged in a sealed foil pouch and boxed.

I have a reverse eye spring on my car, the mechanical brakes work well.