55 chevy gasser suspension set-up questions?

Hi,
Ok I have a stock 55 chevy suspension set-up and I am going for the g***er look. I have stock springs in the front and 5 (leaf) springs in the back (that probably need re-arching). I am planning on running the stock a-arms in the front for now with hopes to go to a straight axle in time. I am concerned how my car will sit. I don't want it to nose down in the front. So this is my idea and I would appreciate any feedback someone might give me that has done this before.

Ecklers Cl***ic Chevy has coils for tri-fives that are two inch higher in the front I am thinking a 215 70 15 for the front
and
On the rear 285 70 15 on a 8.5 rim.

Thanks
J

 

anyone have any idea?

 

Sounds like a good plan. If it were mine, I'd install the new front and rear springs, then see how the stance looks and adjust accordingly... Maybe raise the rear a little (in addition to the taller 285 tires). I'd do it with slightly longer rear shackles to stay period-correct.

Be sure to take it to a GOOD alignment shop immediately afterwards. Changing the at***ude directly affects the frontend caster and indirectly affects toe-in/out and camber.

I had a '55 for 16 years and loved it. I considered doing what you're planning, but sold it instead to start another project.

Hope this helps- be sure to post some pics.

 

Are you putting a small block up front?
I don't know what Eckler's springs are for specifically, but if you want taller springs up front, stock 6-cylinder springs will do the trick. That's with the Small block. If you're putting in a big block, I THINK big block Impala springs might fit. Call someone like Eaton or go through a MOOG catalog and see what the specs are on the springs.
I've heard '61-'64 Chevy springs spec'd for 409 with A/C have been used for things like this as well.

A 14-inch wheel/tire up front will exaggerate it a bit. It'll put a lot of space between the top of the tire and the fender opening. 14-inch Torque Thrusts aren't exactly sought after, so you should be able to pick up a pair pretty cheap. Mine are 14x4 or 14x6, and I got them for $20.

Removing weight will also be a big help. My '57 was real close to being in driving trim (before I got stupid and took it all apart again), and with no inner fenders, no bumper and no hood, it sat high up front like you're looking for. I also had fibergl*** front fenders on it (fenders, not 1pc tilt nose), but you should be fine with the stock steel fenders.

Other ways to remove weight: ditch the filler panels an the radiator core support, instal an aluminum radiator (Griffin makes one with stamped tops that looks stock, after fogging it black), aluminum water pump, and put the battery in the trunk. Aluminum heads will also save a chunk, if you can afford them.

If you get rid of the hood, or put a lift-off fibergl*** hood on it, you can also remove the hood hingers.

-Brad

 

If you aren't gonna use ball joint spacers, and you want the nose up relative to the rear then leave the rear springs in their saggy condition....

also don't expect to be able to get the front springs finalized until you have every part on the car as it will be when it's done. If you have the g***er frame of mind, the car will lose a lot of weight up front, and stock springs will probably have it all the way up that the suspension travel will allow.

 

You can buy longer springs from JC Whitney. You can also buy higher lift rear leaf springs. I used em on the front of 2 55 chevys I have done. It sets the front end up as high as it can go. The ball joint spacers help it go up higher. It's cheap but not an exact science. Both of those cars were really stiff. The second one I did I couldn't compress the spring enough to put the front end back together. The body shop kid did it somehow. I imagine that energy will be released when I take the car apart. I think the springs are 69 bucks apiece

 

Do a search for Shakey Puddin on the HAMB. All your questions can probably be answered in his build threads. Good luck with the project.

 

thanks for the info so far. I hope to have some pics soon. I am wondering if anyone thinks that I should use a lowering block of some sort in the rear to make sure the rear of the car sits lower?

 

You have to decide what time frame of the g***er your building is from....if it is very early 60's. The front end is not all that high...mid 60's to late 60's higher.
But if you have seen the pics that many people these days are calling g***ers the car is actually closer to a 'Street Freak' that is another story.
Remember in the 60's most tracks required 24inches from crank center to the ground.
You will quickly realize that alot of the so called g***ers you see are closer to street freaks. Look at actaul 60's drag photos or pit photos...you will notice many of thee cars are not insanely high...there are a few..but many are realistically high.

I saw someone mentioning sagged out rear leafs...this guy knows what he is talkling about. I have numerous period photos of mid and early 60's cars that had the rear ends rather low...actually some of the 60's chevy superstocks rear ends were low also.
DO NOT use 60-64 409 springs. If you do not use a balljoint spacer they are so stiff your control arm will be forced against the frame at a sitting position, then when you drive the car it will destroy the control arm.
Cl***ic Chey BB springs work fine....run a tall font tire....remove the bumper and keep the rear at stock or lower height. Car should look right on the money.
Many of these cars I am seeing these days are WAY TO HIGH....they look like 4X4 trucks. To each there own, nothing wrong with it. But we are getting farther and farther from what an actual g***er really was.

PM me for pics, I can send mine that was a real 60's g***er with IFS.

 

I was looking at doing something similar but I am looking at a lot of weight in the front - blown iron BBC. Would the 60-64 409 springs work then?

 

Shakey Puddin is God!

IFS only operates well in a small window of ride height. Usually +/- 2-4 inches. Beyond that and sometimes within that, stuff wears out and you really aren't saving any ride quality at all. I ran stiffer/taller springs in my car for a while, and when I finally put in an axle, it handled the same or better. Balljoint spacers are ok, and when combined with tall springs can usually even out the camber changes inherent to each individually. Just don't go crazy and try adding a 6 inch spacer or something.

Lowering the back a couple inches would definately be early 60's PC.

 

Falfasnightmare Thanks for the ideas. Do you have a model number for them springs you are talking about? Hey RacerRick I am just down the road from you in Ancaster O!

 

Racerrick....the 409 springs did not work in a 55 with a BBchevy.....they are so stiff and I think the Impala has a taller space to fill than the tri-5's or somthing.
The control arms were pressed against the frame and driving it would destroy it.

I know the cl***ic checy BBC spring are good....and you can even get a 1inch little aluminium spacer ring from your local NAPA store to adjust if you have room.
I have 1 inch of room on my 55 as you can see in the pic it sits high...and no damage, no wear, no steering issues. But I also do not put a ton of miles on it.
It is not so stiff suspension won't work, there is a little bounce and give. Not like solid or a rock.

AND ANYONE DOING THIS needs to buy shock extensions, or your shock is pulled to the full extreme and will not be in the center position as desired.

I also had to relocate the shock over about 1inch to keep it from rubbing on the coil spring!

Cl***ic Chevy bbc springs...or 65-68 impala bbc springs. They are a different part number than the 60-64 chevy ( I think).
Thanks!