I've heard of this stuff por-15 but I dont know jack about it! Can someone tell me a little more about it, some buddies told me to use it on my frame.. Consider I'm doing a frame off I was just wondering would this be a better route, since I have very limitted budget
It's not cheap and POR-15 company reccomends a three or four part process to prep the frame before applying the final black. I used it because a friend of mine was selling out his POR-15 stock cheap. The stuff is supposed to encapsulate the rust to prevent it from spreading. If you have a very rusty frame and DO NOT plan to sand blast it, I would reccomed it. But if you are going frame off, a good cleaning will do the trick.
I did my stock model a frame with it. Sandbasted,prepped it with por15 metal prep, por15, and then used por15 chassis coat. I brushed mine on, and aside from a few brush strokes when it dried I'm very happy with it. It is a little pricey but it goes a long way.
If you would do a search you'll find a ton of posts on it here. Pretty much everything you want to know. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287771&highlight=por+15 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267349&highlight=por+15 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261923&highlight=por+15 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186186&highlight=por+15 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63136&highlight=por+15 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186170&highlight=por+15 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=172451&highlight=por+15 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104269&highlight=por+15 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=150076&highlight=por+15 and that's just the start...
dont get it on your skin ... oh yea and if you put the lid back on the can with out putting plastic between it you will never get the lid off i brushed the underside of a trailer and it froze the shackels up on it it took a wile before the broke loose some mean stuff... i like it..
We just started handling it in our parts store 6 months ago and yes, it is pricy, but the product does sell and a lot of repeat sales. The funny thing is how many people buy it for non automotive use, a lake dock, patio legs, a outside gantry. We were suprised how many of the gearheads would comment on our stocking it and really excited as they tell thier own stories of success with it.
I've used it and Rust Bullett (which is similar stuff) I think they are both good, I just painted my '40 ford frame with rust bullett after I went over it with a wire brush attachment on my die grinder. Rust Bullett is about $45 per quart...Gary
POR-15 is one of several different products of usually, two different forumulations. They are, in essence, rust encapsulators (metal encapsulators if you prefer). The process/preparation for use is basically the same for all. clean (wire brush/loose stuff), use their degreaser, paint on the product. The products are very very hard but must go over a very very clean surface. Any grease causes the products to lift off. All will be damaged/change color in sunlight but for frames are good. They are impervious to road salt and grime, oil and gas, etc once cured. I use two from two different manufacturers and sell complete lines for both of the manufacturers. They (and POR for that matter) are good products and do their job well over correctly prepped surfaces. They look pretty good brushed on (don't spray them!!! ).
I've used it on 2 projects. Great stuff - just make sure you follow the directions, you have to have a little rust on the metal for it to work (or go through a long prep process). It will peel off clean metal.
i dont like it i use chassie saver easy to clean up with thinner por-15 turns to cottage cheese when you try to clean up with thinner same deal with the plastic under the lid
Yes clean the grease off, but do not confuse a very very clean surface to mean clean metal with no rust. Por-15 likes the surface rust, it helps it bond, and that's according to their own literature.
if you brush it it seems like the can never gets empty it goes a long way and the funny thing about this stuff is the more humidty in the air the faster it drys its cured my dampness ... i let some dry in a spray bomb lid about 1/2 thick id be damned if you could break it in half ...
Be sure to buy a box of disposable rubber gloves at the drug store and use them. This stuff will not clean off your hands. Takes about 2 weeks to wear off. As stated in prior posts, always put a sheet of surran wrap or other kitchen wrap between lid and can when you reclose it. Don't use it out of the can! Pour or dip out a portion into another can. And recover can right away. Do not pour unused portions back in original can. Rember: a little goes a long way. It is UV sensitive so don't use it on parts that will be in direct sunlight. Use disposable brushes and toss when done. It can be painted over. Store in a refrigerator. Questions on application: mkanya@por15.com They also make a great header/exhaust manifold paint and a clear epoxy for bed wood on pickups---called Pelucid
One thing not said here and that is DO NOT spray it on unless you use a resperator. I made the mistake of spraying for about 30 seconds in one spot while doing the 55 and my lungs literally burned for 4 days. It's great on rusty stuff cause it works its way into the steel. You can see it bubble while its doin its thing.
Used in the past with good results. Once cured, and as Fat47 said above, "It can be painted over.", but it requires their Tie Coat Primer, or Self Etching Primer to accept top coats. For more details check out their web site at http://www.por15.com/.
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