Well i finally decided that i am going to run a 3 link rear suspension with a torque arm and wile walking through the local u pull it i found a set of springs and went ahead and pulled them . Anyone want to shoot holes in this or see any problums.
Um...you gotta be a bit more specific. How about a diagram of the suspension you want to build? Or a photo of one you're copying? Or at least mention what kind of car you want to use it in?
Brian your a little impatiant arn't you ?All I see is a picture of a spring that I suppose if mounted correctly will hold your car up.Like Dave said give us a bit of something to work with here. Theres some damn smart people here but no mind readers that I know of . Gregg
ok lets start over i would like to replace the coilovers with the eliptical springs , my question is will it cause any bind or adverse handaling, this will be under my 32 chevy truck 11 inch z at rear 30inch bed and a 6 inch chop 350/350 combo
sorry i thought every one new what a 3 link torque arm set up looked like, my question is to use the springs instead of coilovers as this will simplify my build by mountimg all of the suspension from the frame just before the kickup , iwill be using shackles to mount the springs to the axle. the springs will be mounted out side of the rails and the trailing arms will be mounted inside
im glad i put something on here that you did not tell me would fall apart, this is my first build and the learning curve on suspension is starting to look up thanks Ian
I'm using 4 bar rear and replacing the lower bars with 1/4 eliptics then a panhard to keep it alined. I'll try and get pix tomorrow.
As long as the springs press down on the axle, the car doesn't care if they're 1/4 ellipticals, spirals, air bags or baboons. If the 1/4 ellipticals fit your car better, I say do it! Where are you going to mount the shock absorbers? Can you mount spiral shocks in the same place? Disclaimer: I have never actually built a hot rod, but I've read a lot of posts on the HAMB.
A couple of thoughts here; If you are indeed using a torque arm and quarter elliptics, by triangulating brackets to the axle tubes you don't need the outboard links (which will bind the suspension if you don't get their length and placement right). If you do use a three link, allowing all the links (upper AND lower) to articulate at the axle (a true 3 link) permits you put the instant center where it would do the most good to plant the tires regardless of the springing medium used (look at what Ford did with the 05 up Mustang for instance). Depending on how you mount the spring pack (double U bolt with the center bolt in the middle, etc.), what you use for shackle bushings (urethane for instance), and how long the links of the shackles are (just long enough to not bind up), you can use the springs to laterally locate the rear end and forgo some other type of device (I'm thinking of using semi elliptics on a rocker (think Ford AA or some 20s GM models) to do the same thing. Always a good thing to do a little studying and read a few suspension geometry primers before diving in to the hardware. I recommend Carol Smiths series of books to get started (Prepare to Win , Tune to Win (especially Tune to Win), Engineer to Win,)
why a panhard bar with bottom link 14 eliphtics. They will more than hold it laterally. Like putting garters on ***** hose
Well there is a lot to think about ,I would like to use the springs as the botom bars as this would make things even easier than my first plan but i ill do alot more reading on this type of setup
This I what I thought too but mine moves quit a bit side to side. The springs aren't like links they flex
most of the stuff i have found for 1/4 springs have ben for 4 wheel drives and they are using them with either a, a arm or triangulated 4 link
I will be using a piece of c chanel welded to the outside of my frame with two bolts going through the channel and springs and maybe some leaf spring sliders instead of shackles
From the pix it looks like it'll work.The only thing i may have done different is run your bars to the Pumpkin. This would keep it centered. A panhard bar will pull the rearend back and forth slighlty, but it looks fine as is.
Originally Posted by Dolmetsch why a panhard bar with bottom link 14 eliphtics. They will more than hold it laterally. Like putting garters on ***** hose I imagined the springs being so thick side to side that they'd be impossible to bend in that direction. What do you mean by, "flex?" Do they twist? Do you think they would still flex if they had less arc in them? How much do you think your axle would move without a panhard bar (in inches, not poetry)? Does the movement come from the bushings, the spring twist or _______ ? Inquiring minds want to know.
In my pics you'll notice that the springs works as the lower bars in the 4 bar setup.That is they are not bolted solid on the front mount, they are alowed to pivot and the large bolt on the top of the mountis for rasing or lowering the rear suspension. There is some sideways movement, thus the panhard bar.We have used this similar setup on my son's roadster with no problems. We are planing to use this setup on my other son's 4Dr. But we will use a triangulated setup on it. The springs and mounts are Posies. I hope this helps.
Yes, thank you. That clears it right up. Maybe you shouldn't mess with success, but have you thought about mounting the front of the spring in a C-channel? That would still allow your up and down adjustment without the side to side movenent. I think the 1/4 elliptics would hold the rear end in place (side to side) if they wern't allowed to pivot at the front. It would do away with the panhard bar. I wouldn't redo your currant car but the ones you have planned would be good candidates. If it doesn't work, you could add the panhard bar easily. It may simplify and lighten the unsprung m*** while adding a little weight to your wallet. Just some theoritical thoughts... I have no practicle experience so "take it with a grain of salt."
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