<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> <o></o> Here's what I have 406 SBC 10.5 -1 cast heads correct head gaskets, stem holes in heads, Comp Cam Extreme XE294h specs. Intake 519/523 duration 294/306 lobe center 110, New Be Cool rad. Performer intake 600 Holley I know the carb is to small but thats all I had to start the motor. I filled the block 1st with 50/50 antifreeze then put the 195 thermostat in & filled the rad. to avoid any air pockets in the coolant. Put a high volume industrial fan in front of the motor. <o></o> <o></o> Fired up right away back the timing down to 34 degrees at 2800 rpm back the RPM down to about 2200 Temp ran up to 200 degrees started over heating. & I shut it down. Checked everything and started it again, this time I noticed # 4,6, 3,5 headers were glowing red. I played with the timing from 29 total to 42 degree and no change in the overheating. Checked the plugs and they are dry and black/gray. Pulled the thermostat and tried again. Same thing overheats. No mushroom soup in the oil. <o></o>
Fresh overhaul? First couple of times, I run for a minute at high idle and then shut down. Them rings is getting hot until they have a chance to smooth out. I watch closely on first start, NEVER allow to oveheat, shut down before it gets up to 200. Too late now, might have already got the rings hot and took the temper out of them.
Good thought but it fired up on a half a revolution. The balancer is the same one as I had b-4 I had the motor rebuilt.
1 i hope you have a true breakin oil in it, ie shell rotella or royal purple break in oil, and at least a pint of crane or like branded, break in cam concentrate to avoid a flat camshaft, secondly it sounds like the camshaft is a tooth off on the timing chain retarded. it will infact overheat and cherry the headers that way .... check that first and or a bad va*** leak can cause it as well . but ill bet it is not that simple, good luck
For the exhaust to be glowing red you have to be firing with the exhaust valves open. This is a timing issue and it will cause the engine to run hot.
The short block was done by a guy I have known for years. No Bud No budwesier, No crack no crank. 30 years in biz. Could it happen (yes) but what else am I overlooking? Am I having some beers YES!!!!
Sounds like it could be severely retarded. You might want to double check the firing order and make sure you haven't criss-crossed some leads. Since it's only glowing the header tubes on the 4, 6, 3, and 5, I wonder if you have a dual plane manifold, and for some reason you have a big vacuum leak on one plane only or something, making those four cylinders run way leaner than the other four. Or the carb is screwed up and only squirting fuel on one side. Good luck. Good luck.
You said that you pulled the plugs and they are black/gray. Are they all the same? Rusty bolts make a good point about checking the wires and firing order. 18436572 is the normal firing order, I'm sure that you know that.
I am not familiar with the cam you have, is it solid or hydraulic. Are you sure the valves are adjusted correctly?
hydraulic I feel like they are adjusted correct. no noise in the valve train. but I'll check that too!!! after problems are solved it easy but getting there can be a bi*** thanks for your input!!!!
if the center 4 are turning the headers red hot, but the 2 leanest tubes are fine, lean probably isn't it. did You degree the camshaft?
Did you prime the engine just prior to making the initial valve adjustments? This will make sure that the lifters are fully pumped up. When I adjust the valves initially I adjust them so that the push rods just get tight with no slack and then only 1/4 turn. Don't make the final adjustment until the engine is at operating temperature. You have to be firing with the exhaust valves open to cause the exhaust to glow red. If the plugs are black it is not a lean problem.
Sounds like the valves may be set way to tight, keeping the exhausts open. Had this happen once on a solid roller engine, but not for sure if the same is possible on a hydraulic cam.
You might check your pushrod length geometry. Some big hydraulics will hold valves open if the pushrods are too long. Bring each valve to TDC, take a rocker off clean a stem and black it with a sharpie then put the rocker back on and pre load it. Pull it back off. You should see a witness mark on the stem, it should just toward the intake side off the center. If its at the center or toward the exhaust,the pushrod is too long, if its more than a smidge toward the intake. like closaer than 1/3 or the stem, the pushrod is too short. I am not a big fan of big hydraulics becuase they will sometimes be so violent they will pump the lifters. What you are describing sounds like the exhausts are hanging off the seats. As for temper on the rings, you can get as hot as 230°-240° before that's going to hurt anything, 200°-210° is just nice and toasty and with moly they broke in about the time you blipped the throttle the first time. I would be more worried about the valves and seats, or a guide swelling an ******ing a valve and bending it. Something to look at. Do a leak down with 100 PSI of air on a gauge and see what it holds. If its holding a valve open you will hear it hissing out the header tube.
curiously interesting......... sounds like its a timing issue lux beat me to it. I'd start from square 1 & double check everything! Pull the balancer & cover check your marks, tdc, dist. & retorque the intake questions: What year is the block? Is it the stock crank? What balancer are you using ?
I soak the lifters in oil after 6 hours I put them in the motor and let them sit overnight. the next day. I adjust them so that the push rods just get tight with no slack I set the lifters at a 1/2 turn. THis is the 1st time I used this method http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89o5rLpbCgI&NR=1 is it correct or wrong???
it is for sure possible on most configurations, and on all configs after things are changed by machine work like decking blocks, milling heads, etc... If the rockers are too tight they will not make noise unless they are so tight you hit the piston, but you would know that by now...
this technique can be tricky, the goal is to center the lifter plunger in it's travel in the bore. I routinly err to loose when setting initial lash with a similar procedure, and then adjust hyd lifter setups with the engine running if I end up with some loose ones rattling upon startup. Too loose wont often damage a new engine, it just wont run or wont run right.... too tight can have dire consequences.
if it is an m.s.d. distributor, with the purple and green wires, take a look at them. if they are green to green/ purple to purple, they are WRONG. if they are right, switch them anyway. I ran into this exact problem not long ago and it drove me up a damn wall- the pickup was wired incorrectly from m.s.d.
I prefer E.O.I.C. Exhaust opening, intake closing. MEANING when the exhaust just begins to open, adjust the intake valve. when the intake valve just begins to close, adjust the exhaust valve.
Soaking the lifters in oil doesn't insure that they are full of oil and fully pumped up. You need to prime the engine using a 1/2 drill or something with enough power to turn the oil pump to push the oil throughout the engine and pump the lifters up all the way. When you do this the rockers should all be loose so they don't restrict the lifters from pumping up. Once the oil pressure gauge shows good pressure then adjust the valves but don't tighten them to final adjustment position.
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