In response to some recent requests for info on inspection, rebuilding, and servicing Ford steering (1937 to 1948 p***enger car and 1937 to 1956 pickup) I've pulled the appropriate section out the booklet that Vern Tardel and I have been working on. The booklet includes steering ID and modifications along with the info shown here. Plans are to have the booklet ready for sale in late September. It's the first in a series of booklets on old-Ford hot-rodding work covering such subjects as steering, brakes, electrical, transmission, driveline, suspension, etc. So, here's the requested steering info . . . _______________________________________________ Inspection, Rebuild, and Service With so many good, affordable donor steering boxes in circulation, it's a relatively inexpensive task to ***emble a first-rate box that's as good as new. If you're impatient you can buy all-new internals but they'll cost you several hundred dollars that could be better spent somewhere else on your hot rod. Check the lower bearing race on the worm gear for galling. This is a fairly common condition and one that creates stiff spots in the rotation of the steering wheel. The remedy is a new worm gear that can be pressed onto your old shaft. Inspect the sector gear for galling, and pray that there isn't any, because here, too, replacement is the remedy and a new sector gear and pin will set you back $60-$70. An entire new sector ***embly -- gear, pin, and shaft -- are a couple hundred bucks! Plan on parting with $30-$40 (as of this printing) for worm gear bearings, gaskets and shims, a sector shaft bushing, and a sector shaft seal to make the steering box as good as new once the modification work is finished. Before ***embling the steering, clean the sector shaft to remove old seal material. Be gentle and don't scratch or abrade the seal area. Dress the front and top mounting surfaces on the box with a file to remove ridges or burrs that would prevent oil-tight sealing. Bearing end play is adjusted by shimming the lower race which protrudes slightly from the case. The end cap is installed to determine the size and number of gaskets needed. Adjustment is a cut-and-try process. Begin with three thick green gaskets between the end cover and the box. There should be a very slight drag on the steering shaft when it's turned. If there is no drag, remove one gasket and check again. If there is too much drag, add another gasket -- a thinner brown one. If you don't hit the right combination at first, be patient; you'll soon get it and then be ready to ***emble the steering box. ***embly The simple F-1 steering box almost ***embles itself. Just make sure it's properly lubed and correctly adjusted. Apply a generous coat of moly grease to the bearings, worm gear, and sector gear and upper part of the shaft. Oil the lower part of the sector shaft and install it in the case with the gear centered. Grease the lash adjuster and install it in the top of the sector body with the adjuster screw toward the front of the box. If it's reversed, the cover won't fit on the box. Apply a thin, even coat of Permatex to the mounting surface on the box, thread the cover onto the adjuster screw, and draw the cover down by turning the adjuster counter-clockwise. Adjust the lash until the steering turns smoothly, with no play, throughout the full movement from lock to lock and back. Then, install the star lock on the adjuster screw and screw on the locknut to hold the star lock in place. After the mast jacket has been added, install a new rubber bushing into the upper end to support the top of the steering shaft. Use only silicone lube on the bushing; grease will harden it and cause it to squeak.
How come you don't side work for Chilton's? Damn, this is almost surgical. Beautiful. When can we expect the rest on shelves?
Great post. I trust that once the booklets are all finished they'll be compiled in book form as well? Either way, sign me up for that first booklet...
This might be what I need to inspire me to rebuild a '41 I had thought of using in my coupe...when will the booklets be available?
before i take my box apart it is lose in the center position and gets tight towards the far ends (left lock right lock). is there any way to fix it or am i going to need expensive new parts ????? wish full thinking i know
[ QUOTE ] After the mast jacket has been added, install a new rubber bushing into the upper end to support the top of the steering shaft. Use only silicone lube on the bushing; grease will harden it and cause it to squeak. [/ QUOTE ] Any thought given to one of the upper mast bearing conversions? Seems like a simple upgrade... Great stuff!
thanx for posting this mike. may i be next in line to sign up for the entire set of booklets? and a complete version including the contents of all the booklets should you decide to do it. seriously, if there can be a way to be on a mailing list that would be great. maybe a notice sent to everyone who has purchased the previous booklet? at the least a post here that gets pinned to the top for a couple of weeks. b-t-w; when conversing with you professional writer types it makes me wish i weren't too lazy to use capital letters.
Awesome! Put me on the list for the whole series or the book if you compile them. What ever happened to the "How to Build a Traditional Fat Fendered Ford Hot Rod" project? When you old farts are dead and gone, I'll be glad I have this stuff! (I guess I'll be an old fart then.) JH
Good lay out as always av8 for the book .Can't wait till it hits the book store . Good reading and tech from you and vern.
Mike sez >>>>>>>>>>>>After the mast jacket has been added, install a new rubber bushing into the upper end to support the top of the steering shaft. Use only silicone lube on the bushing; grease will harden it and cause it to squeak. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>I used a needle bearing at the top of the steering column for my 35 Ford pickup. Thats got to be better than trying to overcome the rubbers resistance to turning. I also learned that I could use a p***enger car mast on my pickup by moving the cast iron column-to-dash clamp.
Mike. You rock. Thanks for taking the time to put all of this knowledge in writing. Can't wait to see the booklets.
Why is this so far down? I'm starting to think you guys got a huge stash of the last remaining CLEAN parts in exsistance? That's cheating by the way... Great tech. Am I nuts to ***ume that a '40 box build would be similar?
Mike, I'm like a lot of others here, I want a copy of all of the booklets. I hope you make it known here when they will be available and where we go to get them. Thanks, Frank
av8, thanks for the tech! that's cool of you, and easy to follow. I only have one question....Where did you purchase your new bearings and shims/gasket set? Also, what years does that kit work for? I have a 40 box. Oh and I want a book too!!!! keep us posted on print runs and cost of book- I'm sure the first run will mostly get eaten up by Hamb. thanks again john
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