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Dumb question for the painters!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 38FLATTIE, Dec 12, 2008.

  1. 38FLATTIE
    Joined: Oct 26, 2008
    Posts: 4,349

    38FLATTIE
    Member
    from Colorado

    I've been trying to find custum high temp engine paint. I want to match the engine to the car, but havn't found anyone that will mix a custom high temp paint.i know i can powder coat it, but do not want do tear down the motor yet. Can anyone help, or does anyone have a viable idea? Thanks
     
  2. super plus
    Joined: Dec 14, 2006
    Posts: 566

    super plus
    BANNED

    If your painting the block & heads , use the same stuff your putting on the car
     
  3. 38FLATTIE
    Joined: Oct 26, 2008
    Posts: 4,349

    38FLATTIE
    Member
    from Colorado

    I don't need high temp paint?there won't be any heat issues?
     
  4. 40StudeDude
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 9,561

    40StudeDude
    Member

    Nope, I've painted several with base coat, clear coat and acrylic enamel...it'll be fine for about ten years...I painted my Stude engine about 28 years ago, it's yet to peel...

    I'll usually "bulldog" (softens ) what's left of the original and then spray...you only need high temp on headers...even so called high temp powdercoating does not work on headers.

    R-
     
  5. 38FLATTIE
    Joined: Oct 26, 2008
    Posts: 4,349

    38FLATTIE
    Member
    from Colorado

    Thank you very much! I'll try it.
     
  6. thechopperguy
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 149

    thechopperguy
    Member

    I'll second 40StudeDude's recommendation. I've done it and seen it done several times without problems.
     
  7. The bearded bullet
    Joined: Jan 11, 2008
    Posts: 5

    The bearded bullet
    Member
    from c@l

    Couple things,
    It must be clean, no really clean, clean like you could lick it clean.
    Next keep it thin, thin like super model on crack thin, less coats the better.
    Last make it a killer color:cool:
     
  8. HRK-hotrods
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 922

    HRK-hotrods
    Member


    Exactly... Make sure to degrease the shit out of the motor. Scrub it down then repeat again. Wipe it down between washes with a good solvent(and use appropriate gloves, chemical absortion sucks) like acetone. Be sure to do it in a well ventilated area too. If you can take a clean white towel and wipe the block, etc and the towel stays white, then you should be good to go. Probably wouldn't hurt to put some fish eye remover in the paint either.
     
  9. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Quick tip. Base clear is fine for an engine, but use a quality product. If its questionable on the exterior of a car, when abused in that manner it will surely peel and flake.

    Once again, QUALITY product.

    And make it clean.
     
  10. donzzilla
    Joined: Oct 15, 2006
    Posts: 142

    donzzilla
    Member

    It always hurts to put fish eye eliminator in the paint if there is no problems before hand. Hide that crap in someone elses garage until you need it. Better yet. Prep it right and you won't need it EVER!
     
  11. Kirk Hanning
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 1,606

    Kirk Hanning
    Member

    I also will agree that use the same technique that you would for a car's exterior. Have had several engines that way for over 10 yrs. not yet an issue as long as it's prepped correctly.
     
  12. donzzilla
    Joined: Oct 15, 2006
    Posts: 142

    donzzilla
    Member

    Sorry, I got off topic on the fish eye eliminator. It adds silicone to the paint, air and everything, making it hard to paint other stuff later.

    Back on topic. I have restored cars for well over 25 years and have used everything from lacquer primer and paint to modern epoxy primers and urethanes on motors and have never really had a problem. I even used a lot of filling primers when painting custom motors that I had ground the castings off of and molded everything in.

    Personally I don't believe in the high heat mumbo jumbo. You can get a $5.00 can of hi heat paint that will blister off of your motor in record time, yet regular ol non hi heat paint will stick to the black hood of your car in the desert on a record hot day, with a motor running close to 200 degrees with no problems.

    The only problems you will run into is near the exhaust where it gets really hot. And exhaust manifolds are out of the question. I have only seen special coatings stick to them.

    Zilla!!
     
  13. 38FLATTIE
    Joined: Oct 26, 2008
    Posts: 4,349

    38FLATTIE
    Member
    from Colorado

    Thanks guys! I just thought i needed high temp paint. Glad i asked, because now i can match the block exactly to the car. I'll post pics when i get this flathead caddy painted!
     
  14. 48 Chubby
    Joined: Apr 29, 2008
    Posts: 1,014

    48 Chubby
    Member Emeritus

    If you can get color, coverage, and gloss in one coat-stop spraying. Use as little paint as possible to do this. This is where more ain't better. The thin resist heat better.
     
  15. chopt55bc
    Joined: May 10, 2008
    Posts: 886

    chopt55bc
    Member

    been tellin that to guys for years and some still dont get it!!!
     
  16. Tony
    Joined: Dec 3, 2002
    Posts: 7,350

    Tony
    Member

    Yep, like the other's said...no problem but keep it clean and use a quality paint.
    I used ICI base clear on my old 32 motor..Held up great and that didn't have a hood so it was open to the elements as well..
    On that one, i actually ground the block and head's free of ALL casting marks etc..like SMOOTH and shot it gloss black..
    Looked better than the rest of the car..haha
    But, a pain in the ass, messy and a lot of work..
    :D
     
  17. lowrodderDon
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 257

    lowrodderDon
    BANNED

    yeah, the paint you put on the outside of your car will work on the engine too, I haven't ever taken a temp reading on paint on the outside of a car but I have been told that black paint gets to 300+ in the sun, so how hot does your engine get? I've got base coat clear coat on my blown bigblock 700 hp camaro and no problems. plus many other engines, just make it clean. you can use lacquer thinner, get it clean and dry then load the gun w/lacquer thinner spray a nice coat of lacquer thinner on the engine ( it softens the existing paint and helps it bind) then spray as normal. if it's bare metal, use etch prime but my theory is to go light, you want the engine to breathe, to much paint will be like a blanket, good luck
     
  18. 38FLATTIE
    Joined: Oct 26, 2008
    Posts: 4,349

    38FLATTIE
    Member
    from Colorado

    Ok, so spaying the thinner is what has been called bulldogging, to soften the paint. I'll do that, clean the hell out of it,and spray it light.

    Thanks again!
     
  19. Cole Auto
    Joined: Mar 26, 2008
    Posts: 68

    Cole Auto
    Member
    from SoCal

    I've also painted engines base/clear and they look excellent and no peeling or discoloration. One thing not mentioned here is to use epoxy primer over the bare steel. It well etch into the metal and help adhesion. Just do the same thing as you do on the outside of the car and it'll look awsome.
     
  20. 40StudeDude
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 9,561

    40StudeDude
    Member

    NO...there is a product called "Bulldog"...it's a paint softener, lots of guys use it on door jambs and the underside of trunks so they don't have to sand them when they do a color change on a car...I use that (avail at paint suppliers) but I'd guess a shot of lacquer thinner would soften the paint too...

    R-
     
  21. 38FLATTIE
    Joined: Oct 26, 2008
    Posts: 4,349

    38FLATTIE
    Member
    from Colorado

    Ok-lol! I thought it was the same. I'll do one or the other. Thanks for all the help! Wrenching is one thing, but i usually leave the paint to the pros!
     

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