Seems logical to get the pump as close to the tank as possible and go filter, pump, regulator in that order. Any reason to put a filter any place else? When I add a fuel shutoff it can go forward of the pump etc. and cause no problems, right? Does the pump need to be wired into the ingnition or could you just run it on a seperate toggle? What would you do? 94's run on 2 or 3 psi I think? Is that right?
I just did mine and put in an extra filter after the pump before the regulator. I like to be safe. Wasn't completely necessary, but works good for me. I wired up a toggle for my application. I like to be able to control when my pupm comes on,mainly for when I go to start it up for the first time of the day. I'm running a manual choke so to avoid any issues while I'm first cranking it I decided to use the toggle. I still wired it up to an igintion powered circuit so that I don't forget to leave it on. Not sure on the psi, but I've seen them run at 3psi no problem. Hope it helps,
The way you laid it out is how I did it on my '40 and it worked just fine. Mine was hooked to the ignition switch and that made me nervous so I put a toggle in line and hid it for extra security and safety.If you put a good filter before the pump,that's all you need. I know my Rochester 2G's wouldn't take more than 3psi from an electric pump so I bet the 94's would be the same.
Grim... I always wire my electric fuel pumps through a relay, that way your taking the "load" off of the toggle switch. Otherwise, what you have planned out is correct. Glenn AHotRod
If you're running multiple carbs, put the regulator on the input to the fuel log with a fuel pressure guage right up on the firewall. That way you can adjust the pressure from the engine compartment instead of under the car. I also think the regulator being that far away from the fuel pump will make the diaphram in the pump last longer. Wire the pump so it comes on when you turn the key on. When the pump stops making noise the line's full and you can turn the key to start. Always worked best that way for me.
I just put one in my '54 Ford, and did it just like you are going to do. I did put a relay in so I wouldn't overload the ignition switch, especially important I think if you're running an old ig switch as I am.
I have my fuel pump about a foot and a half from the gas tank, with a rubber line feeding the pump. (one of those hundred dollar holley jobs.) I've got a hard line to the regulator in the trunk and then a series of rubber lines and hard ones to the carb. And my pressure gauge is right on the regulator (right now I'm only doing one carb.) I'm going to run it on a toggle with a relay and just make sure I shut it off.. and like everyone else says, between 2 1/2 and 3 psi for the carbs. That car looks awesome, Grim. Jonnycola
I'm running my pump thru an oil pressure switch. My -WAY SMART-NAPA/old race car guy suggested it when he found out I was using the stock model A tank. If you get hit the pump kills when the engine dies. A little extra precaution with 11 gallons of gas over your lap. overspray
I put the electric pump real close to the tank in my car... ...Remembering my old auto shop teacher's Words of Wisdom on fuel pumps: A mechanical pump ****s better than it blows, And an electric pump blows better than it ****s!! (You'll always remember it if you use THOSE terms, for some reason! ) I go a little overboard with filters, though. I put one before each component. I have one between the tank and the pump, one going into the junk Holley regulator, and the stock one in the carb inlet...three in all! (Overkill is JUST RIGHT!!! ) Try to find an old low performance electric pump that works good...new ones have WAY too much pressure and cannot be regulated down reliably...so I've recently discovered. I've always thought that electric fuel pumps were a bad idea on carbureted engines, and my current project has proven my fears valid (spews fuel out the carb, even with a regulator!). But...I have used the old style electric pumps that can only muster 2-3psi with good results, so long as the vehicle doesn't require any significant VOLUME of fuel. Just a few notes from my own experiences for ya!
You guys are all pretty much on track. A couple of words of caution however. A) ALWAYS run your fuel lines up hill. B) Keep them as far away from heat (mufflers etc) as you can. C) Make sure you are getting a full 12 to 13.5 volts at the pump. D) Filters are good but add restrictions and drop fuel pressure. So put your pressure guage just ahead of the carb so you know the pressure the carb is really seeing.
Holy ****, Rich...you're a GENIUS!!! Something you just said hit me with one of them "Obvious Bricks"!!! You know...about VOLTAGE!!! If mechanical regulators can't be trusted to reliably drop the pressure...what about dropping the VOLTAGE to the PUMP??? Yeeeaahhhhhh....SIX volts oughtta take some of the punch outta that he-man Carter! Thanks, Rich...seriously...I'm gonna try it!!
Grim, first let me concure with the others in saying that your ride is looking super fine. Now, onto your question... The succession of parts placement that you have is correct. One thing to think about is that on a flathead that has been converted to 12volt: when priming the carbs with the ignition switch in the start position the coil, points, etc. will see 12volts until the car is running, at which point the ballast resistor would take over in the run mode and drop your voltage to 6volts at the distributor. 12volts on flathead distributors can pit the points quickly or sometimes fuse them shut. It doesn't happen very often, but if for some reason you have a fuel delivery problem it could happen. If you run the fuel pump in the auxillary circuit you can control this. If you are using a universal ignition switch the circuit is active in all modes except stop. The auxillary circuit is active in start and run switch modes or can be controlled by flipping the key to the aux mode where you are running directly off the battery. If you are going the push ****on route, this scenario is void but could be rigged up to work the same way if you wanted. At this point you could run a toggle switch in line and control the pump at any time, a safety precaution. And you could prime the carbs using the auxillary circuit without adversely affecting the points. Did that make any sense? It's been one of the those days and I probably have my circuits crossed...
Hack, Voltage is a VERY useful tool with EFI systems. Increasing the voltage gives you a lot more flow at a given pressure. Decreasing the voltage can decrease flow. Companies like Kenne Bell manufacture products that increase voltage when needed (like at full throttle). This allows you to support a lot more horsepower. Hot EFI pumps run like ****d apes at 16 or 17 volts. Ford has a system called PWM (pulse width modulation) that uses changes in voltage supplied to a turbine type pump that changes the flow rate supplied to the injectors thus eliminating the need for a resuure regulator. There is a lot of neat **** that you can do with EFI.
60s, Bear in mind that that the carb is going to see a little less pressure than the guage will read because you are pushing the fuel through another filter after the guage.
[ QUOTE ] ALWAYS run your fuel lines up hill. [/ QUOTE ] I'm an idiot... I thought it was cool to have the fuel pump above the carb. I know I've seen lots of race cars set up that way...
Ryan, A drag car can get away with having the pump above the carbs because they don't run long enough to create enough heat to vapor lock. It's those 100+ degree days sitting on super hot blacktop that will kill a system like that. The vapor that is created has nowhere to go. You can't push vapor up hill so it stays in your fuel line. Now your pump is trying to develop pressure but can't cause it's pushing against vapor that will just compress. Now you have low fuel pressure and little fuel flow and your engine runs lean. The only way to get rid of the vapor is to cool it down and let it turn back to a liquid state. BUT if you had your fuel line running uphill the vapor would p*** through the carbs, the engine would hesitate for a second but then keep running fine. It just basic physics.
[ QUOTE ] I'm running my pump thru an oil pressure switch. My -WAY SMART-NAPA/old race car guy suggested it when he found out I was using the stock model A tank. If you get hit the pump kills when the engine dies. A little extra precaution with 11 gallons of gas over your lap. overspray [/ QUOTE ] I recently bought a Facet electric pump and this is recommended in the fitting kit. On the subject of fuel pressure, 94's originally had 3 psi to deal with from the stock mechanical pump.
My T is set up: Tank, shutoff valve, filter, elec. pump, filter, regulator, guage, carbs. Running about 6 psi to 2- 390 cfm Holleys. Too much psi???? Pump goes on and off with the switch but only if I have the hidden switch on. This way if someone hot wires the car they will get about a block before it runs out of gas. I think it is important to have the shut off valve near the tank in case there is a leak anywhere other than the tank. PetT
Thanks everybody. I think I've got it taken care of now. Just need to round up some fuel line, fuel hose, and clamps now. Thanks for the compliments on the car - I think it's going to change a lot and suprise a few of you when the paint goes on. jonnycola - YOUR car rips. I wish I was tearing it up at 19(?) like you are....I'm just an old guy wishing I'd started sooner.
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