FE in a 1956 ford car

Back in the mid - sixtys there were a group of guys in the Redwood City area that drove the '55- '56 Fords with FE motors. I wonder if any of them will chime in? My .02

 

Interesting; as I've got a later model Y-block bracket and FE bracket out in the shed that ARE different, in the height of the pivot point IIRC. I'll have to dig them out tomorrow...

 

Okay, so I dug out all the old clutch linkage parts that I've saved over the years, and... you're correct. But I do have one block mounted clutch bracket that would mount the ball about 3/4" farther back than the others; and it has had the ball moved down about 1-1/4". I think it's the one I used to fit the FE in my old bracket racer, but that was a long time ago. Keep in mind that these are '57 and up parts; just using them to try to get a handle on the location of the clutch shaft in relation to the body and engine.

 

I guess it's good to know that other bracket designs are out there in order to properly lign up the clutch mechanism to the motor. Thanks for the info Warbird.

 

Hey guys, new member here, saw this thread and could not resist getting into the conservation. I am in the middle of installing a '63 R-code FE into my '56 Ford Club Coupe. I called Crites today, they have the motor mounts - however they are out of the C6 transmission mount for their swap kit. I was told you have to use both their motor mounts and trans mount in their kit. They said it would be after the lst of the year before they will have any more trans mounts. They also have custom FE headers for '55 - '56 Ford swap. Well that will give me time to finish the disc brakes and run the fuel lines. Good luck. Mark

 

Sorry, but another thought just hit me - A-1 Shock Absorber Co. supplied me with a set of new '56 s/w front coils with an added 400 pounds of resistance and a set of their Extra HD Shocks (built especially for this application). This will remedy the '56 front end problems. Phone # is 800-344-1966. Ask for Mark Lincenberg (the President of the company) he's a real car guy. Great info and help with both my current '56 build and last year's '57 Custom build. Mark

 

That is greatly apreciated info Mr. Carswell.

 

Did they say how much for the headers? I bet its scarry

 

yes, here's the prices for their products for a '55 & '56 FE transplant.

1955 - 56 FORD
FE motor conversion mounts - $49
FE C6 crossmember w insulator - $125
460 motor conversion mount kit w c6 crossmember/insulator - $245
Aluminum Radiator FE or 460 (must use separate trans cooler) - $260
Radiator mount kit - $45
Radiator fan shroud (our alum rad w 19” fan) - $59
FE or 460 trans C6 crossmember w insulator - $125
FE or 460 Headers 2” tubes 3 1/2 collectors (must use our motor mnt kit) - $329

 

Some guys on the HAMB say the headers will not work with a stick shift.

 

That is what Crites told me at Ford Carlysle. You also must use their motor mount kit for for their headers to fit.

Here is their web site.


I was told by more than one builder that it also helps to add a 1/4" flat spacer between the original motor mount and the motor mount cross member. The extra 1/4" means less trimming of the upper control arm mount.

 

What about a rear end set up without spending $2k for a custom build? I'm trying to find a 52" (flange to flange) Ford 9" but I'm not having any luck. Any suggestions?
Mark

 

Does anyone know of an FE exhaust header that will work in a '55 sedan frame?

 

FPA makes a set of shorty FE headers for '55 to '59 Fords.

http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/Fordpassenger1.htm

 

I think the best stock FE manifolds to use are the 58 and 59s

 

I recall articles in some car magazine about this swap back in the 60's. One guy cut & rewelded the equalizer bar for the offset. Another guy chimed in that all he did was flip the mounts & the clutch linkage lined up. That may cause a different problem but I'd go with whichever one was easier.

 

Looking for some headers for an FE in a '55 Ranch Wagon, any help?

 

Nevermind my last. Just saw Frozenmerc helped me out. Thanks Frozenmerc!

 

Use a rear end out if a 57-59 ford. Perfect fit.

A Lincoln Versailles is also a perfect fit and will have discs.

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I was "assured" by the friendly tech guy at FPA that their new design with the weld on collectors would fit without any problems on my 56 w/390. Three months later I FINALLY got the driver side mounted without it hitting the idler arm. Oh, forgot to mention how many times we had to cut and re-weld the thing. Never again. If anybody needs the stock exhaust mans to fit these, I've got a set in the classifieds. (Sorry for the shameless plug)

 

right on, put pics on here. my 54 ford has a 390 and c6. way cool, pass everthing but a gas station

 

It looks like rotating the motor mounts moves the engine forward about 2", is that so?

 

Yes.

 

Use a 58 steering box, its much better and gives you a little more room for exhaust. A set of 63 427 cast irons will fit the right side perfect and with a shitload of work also the left. Mill the exh side of the manifolds & head, grind the hell out of the steering box and grind the spot that hits the steering box away and braze in an upside down freeze plug in the manifold, nothing to it ! Worked on a 406 57 Custom 300 just fine

 

1965 helped a friend Earl "Barnyard" Barnhart drop a FE 427 into a 1957 Ford Custom 2-door post. IIRC we just bolted it up to the stock Y-block motor mounts. Don't remember what we did to the tranny.

 

I found this over on the GJ. Maybe this will help.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=155119

 

Bttt

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1957 thru 59 rearends will bolt in. I found a narrow leaf spring 9 inch under a 69 ford fairlane. I have it in my 55 chevy wagon. It is one inch narrower than the original 55 chevy rear. The old ford station wagons had larger axle bearings.