i cant stop the trans fluid from leaking out of the ports on my radiator...ive tried teflon tape and that didnt work. I changed the fittings to a tapered style br*** fitting, that slowed the leak but it still leaks. Is there a sealent or possibly an o-ring that i could use...i had someone say something about a br*** washer?? any help would be appreciated, here is a quick drawing, and yes it was done in paint LOL...but that will help you understand better hopefully. thanks everyone bob
There is a washer with an o ring built into but i would check what kind of pressure u have it sounds like u have done evrything correct not to have a leak my 2 cents
i believe i got them from napa but im not 100% positive i worked on a race team and went to alot of places for parts. the best place for odball stuff is mcmastercar they have everything!!!!!!!!!
I got a condenser from an old refrigeration unit, mounted it under the vehicle and no more problems. And the trany runs much cooler, cause the rad heats up the fluid to at least 160-180 on the cool side of the rad. It never gets that hot with a seperate cooler. Done it on 2 Rods so far, the way to go. Ice man
Check the fitting that is welded into the radiator, is it npt threads or inverted flare than check the fitting you have screwed in and verify what it is.
Check the threads Depending on the manufacturer the threads are either inverted flare, SAE straight thread and sometimes NPT. NPT was not a recommended port for OEM's, however some aftermarket coolers have them. if it is pipe threads you have to verify NPT vs NPTF
it may be that the fittings arent seated properly, i had an AN fitting on a fuel tank leaking, it was all intstalled properly and seamed fine except for a little drip. i took the fitting apart and measured the male and female ends and it turned out that the female end was to deep and not allowing the flared ends to mate up causing it to leak so i cut it down some to were it would seat fully and it fixed it, rector seal also works exceptionally well bettter than teflon imo but that would be a last resort.
Exactly. I could never figure that one out, running your transmission fluid through a radiator that is going to run 160-180 degrees or more to cool? your transmission fluid. Running a separate ****** cooler will not only cool your transmission but your water temp should run cooler also because the radiator doesn't have the extra heat from the ****** fluid.
Might be a crack in the joint where the fitting is soldered/welded to the lower tank. Easy to twist and break.
there were some chevy late models that have a front mounted oil cooler,it's small and light,and should be cheap at the yard. I just picked one up for ten bucks for my honda,to use as a power steering cooler. they have weird flares with o rings at the cooler, but also have aluminum tubes attached to those flares. I just hacked off the tubes at the yard,and tig welded AN fittings on to them. I believe you can also use a compression fitting on the tubes. let me find a picture. they should have low restriction and lots of flow.
You can typically get the coolers for cheap at advanced auto or Autozone. it doesn't take a whole heck of alot of cooler to outperform the one in Your radiator. (not being submerged in 200 degree water helps out alot.) I have been told the one in the radiator is really more of a temperature stabilizer than a cooler. ( I know mine sure shifts firmer when it's chilly outside...probably not a bad thing.) or when in doubt, gather up some quarters and head down to the local car emporium.(junkyard)- lots of cars there already have coolers installed outside of the radiator (realizing, of course that it's probably pretty damn cold there already. but which is worse...an hour at the land of lost souls, or several hours under Your car in the freezing *** cold changing a transmission?)
If you run the car in winter, you will need the bottom tank cooler to bring the transmission up to temperature to prevent pre-mature wear. If you over-cool the oil, any condensation that is inside the transmission case from the open breather plays havoc with the insides. Same goes for engine oil - Engine oil needs to be at about 230F to be happy. Too cool and condensation occurs. Condensation mixed with incomplete combustion byproducts becomes an acid that eats bearings, etc. long story short, there is a reason for the bottom tank coolers on a transmission, and any quality stand-alone cooler will have a thermostatic byp***. That being said, the 5.0 liter mustang radiator most likely had metric threads like every other fitting and bolt on the car. While many Metric fittings are close to SAE fittings, that is a sure fire way to a leak path.
can you mike the outside diameter of those threads? i might have a couple of metric fittings that go in there.
i have even taken apart a radiator lower tank or side tank if its a crosflow and used the cooler like that. late model stuff has plastic tanks and break apart easy.
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