I'm in a quandry here fellas, I'm trying to get my '60 Chevy Brookwood on the road ASAP (44 year old daily drivers are a bad idea) and I'm bleeding money. I've got a Corvette 4bbl intake and I just got a tri-power from oddrod, aka, Stevo from San Fran. I just rebuilt the center 2GC, the carb was really nice, it probably could've been used as is. I also bought a Mr.Gasket (Mr. Gasket ****s) 2bbl to 4bbl adapter. After placing the adapter on my intake I can't see how it could work worth a ****. There are overlapping venturis and gaskets, if it does work, it'll be a damn miracle. The plan is to put the tr-power on eventually, but I just don't have the time (or money) to figure out a linkage, fuel lines and eliminate the idle circuits in the outer carbs. I don't want to spend the money on a 4bbl carb when I know that's not what I want. So my question is will the 2bbl on the 4bbl adapter work? Talking of tri-powers, there's a dude that sells this stuff that seals the idle circuits on 2GCs, he claims it's the same stuff as used by GM in the olden days, anyone ever used it? I don't have the scratch to lay out $379 on Speedway's non idle circuit bases, plus they're back ordered for a month, I called 'em. Can anyone recommend a good progressive linkage to use on my tri-power. If I'd have known how much trouble it was to convert a 6 cylinder Chevy to a V8, I would've sold the car and bought a factory V8 one. Thanks.
Mike, what the hell are you still doing at the shop? I like your idea of returning the carb after using it, but I'm too big of a ***** to do it. This is what I'm thinking. The Rochester 4Jet on my Packford is the same base pattern as the 'Vette intake. Maybe I can swap them over for a few weeks until I get my **** sorted out. I love driving the Packford too much to have it down. But I can't take my kid to school in it and when it rains I get soaked in that thing. Can you imagine swapping carbs everytime you want to take a car for a ride? PS Mike, I'll have you're money soon, believe it.
Nads, somebody in O-town has to have a 2bbl. intake. Just use that until... If you can't find one by next weekend let me know.
I'm interested in this guy with the tri-power stuff...I can't see spending the dough that Speedy Bill is asking either. Why can't you run on the center carb only and throw a couple of block off plates on the end carbs? When you get the other stuff (linkage, base plates etc.) you can hook 'em up without going through the mess of a manifold change.
Curly, the guy's on ebay, just type in tri-power. Your idea's a good one, that's probably what I'll do, but I've got to get this car running this weekend and get it to the muffler shop. BTW, who makes block off plates? Do I make them myself? Nate, I've got a 2bbl intake at the shop, it's filthy piece of ****, but I suppose it can be cleaned up. I'm not fretting, I'm just a little disheartened after all the trouble I've been throgh. Oh yeah, my fuel tank leaks too.
Nads I made my own linkage. heres a diagram of what i did, it works good.I'm running all 3 primaries, its a little bit of a h***le, but it runs fine. Why not just run the 2 bbl in the middle & block off the ends till you get it together.Leave the hood closed!!lol also Hang onto that 3 duece manifold forever, there not easy to come by. JimV
Check the thread on JB weld (sometime in the last couple of days). Someone on there mentioned using it to block the idle circuits on the outboard carbs of a tri-power. If you go for temporary block-off plates, they don't have to be flash. Just make them out of sheetmetal and then bolt the carbs on to provide support.
Thanks,I'll check his action out. Get some 1/8" Aluminum, a drill and a sabersaw and have at it. Use a base gasket as a template.
The quick and dirty way is to run the center 2 bbl carb. Cut a beer can shim to cover the end carb base ports and drive around in a very reliable 2 barrel V8. You won't be able to make the progressive linkage operational. The ****erflies will hit the block off shim when they open.(Rochester carbs) You can set up the linkage and leave off the adjustable slide that kicks open the end carbs. You can set up the end base plates any time in the future if you want to fight that battle. FWIW I used 5 min liquid epoxy to seal off the idle circuits. Pull the mixture screws and pack it in untill it comes out the tiny holes in the venturi. the real end bases have thicker throttle plates and a different edge angle to seal better when closed. You'll hear a bunch of whining about being a poser (if you tell them), but it works and is trouble free. I like building and driving them not fixing them. I did it as a quickie to get it on the road and was so happy with it (a driver not a racer) that I left it that way.
Jimv, that's a really excellent solution, it makes perfect sense. The collar's infinitely adjustable, I'm saving this post. Thanks a lot man. Curly I was thinking the same thing, they don't have to be pretty. It's settled, the Edelbrock intake's going on ASAP, barring any hurricane action. The adapter's going in the junk pile only to be sold at the next swap meet for pennies on the dollar. You guys rule, thanks a lot.
that adapter can be flipped over so you can run a 4bbl on a 2bbl, might be something for someone with a 2bbl on a 6cyl.
Send me your 2 bases and 100.00 and i will send yuo back your bases all set up and correct linkage. Including the extended center shaft. This way you don't have to rig your set-up with J.C. Whitney parts. Check the link to my site to see the quality I represent. Take care, Marty
just a warning. don't use too thin of a block out plate. i used too thin of aluminum on a dual quad and it ****ed the aluninum right through into my motor. it wasn't a beer can, it was thicker. when it was running really bad and i couldn't figure it out (thought i had a vacuum leak) i pulled the dummy carb to find an aluminum gasket instead of a block out plate. we were all in shock and i started thinking about all that metal gettig bounced around in my cylinders.
I read somewhere that if you get some POR-15 & put it on the edges of the ****erflys for the end carbs & let it set up for 30 mins or so you breakem free & let them dry open & that'll give you a really good seal when there closed. Apparantly air leaking buy the secondaries is a problem with the thin plates jimV
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