Hey. new to the site and lookin for info. Want to put a new driveline in my stock 48 plymouth. Trying to stick to mopar stuff. Anyone had the experience of trying to fit somethin in the original frame and engine compartment? I've located a couple of options, 318-904-8 3/4 out of a 1974 duster $400 a 440 driveline out of a 1966 dodge that a tree fell on totally rebuilt $1000 Well if anyone can help, I appreciate it. Thanks Don
I Frankenstiened the shit out of my 48 Chrysler. I somehow managed to get a MII w/ a Cavalier rack under it then threw in a 305 and grafted the drivelines. Sounds like your taking a much more knowledgable and well thought out approach. Probably a good thing.
I cant give you any pointers on your path of choice. My only experiance with a 48 engine swap is my buddies with a sb Chevy. It was already set up when he bought it but I still bust his balls about it. I for one like the right brand motors in anything built in the 40's and newer. I applaud your choice to keep it all Mopar. I have seen a 440/727 in a 50 Dodge that had all the inner fenders and everything under the hood. Also had AC and PS. I didn't crawl underneath to see what he did with the frame and the owner was not with the car. Needless to say you couldn't look down and see anything but motor but it looked cool as hell to not see another chevy sitting in it. Good luck keep us posted with the build.
I used a 318/904 from a 70 Coronet in my 48 Dodge and Cavalier R&P with disc brakes. I used the 318 because that is what I had and I wasn't building a race car. Didn't have to do any cutting of the inner fenders or radiator core support for clearance.
A rear sump 318 from a van or pick up drops in nicely. Offset 1" to pass side. Use drivers ex from the early 70s Dart. Engines w/o A/C and or P/S have the right pullies for just the W/P & Alt. You'll probably need a slight trim of the inner fenders & a dent in the firewall for ppass side valve cover clearance. Described in Tex Smith's Mopar hot rod book & worked when I dropped 1 into my 47 dodge.
I'm squeezing a 383/727/3.55 suregrip into my 47 dodge. Those frames are beefy and will hold up to a lot of HP. The fornt suspension is solid too, no need to M2 it just relocate the upper shock mounts. I would buy both. Put the small block setup in the 48. You can get mounts from Ply-do and you wont have to hack up the fire wall. Buy the 440 setup because that is a smokin deal!!!!!
I bought A 354 hemi out of a '48 coupe a few years ago, so I would assume you can make most anything fit......
Ply-Do's owner died a while back & the business is closed @ last report. My 48 Plym 2 dr has a chevelle or Cutlass subframe & had an Olds 455. Eventually replaced it with a 331 Hemi. While the inner fenders had to be trimed for either engine, the firewall is intact. I guess that's the difference between the OEM front & subframing.
I had a 48 plymouth 4 door sedan, 61,000 mile cherry. original black paint was 98% interior had covers from new and the wool didn't have a spot on it. I just couldn't change a thing. went with a 54 Cad 331, 4 speed hydro, 61 dodge rear end, 56 merc power steering, 60 buick power brakes, all junk yard parts except for the mark 4 air conditioner hanging under the dash. didn't cut a thing even used the 54 cad gas pedal and linkage and the 48 column shifter, 57 chrysler rims were the only give away outside, had a CHP pull me over doing 110 mph on the 605 freeway. asked me what I was running and where the fire was in that order. I told him it was all stock and baby son (that son is 41 now) was injured and I had the only family car. he then said if I'd open the hood he wouldn't write any paper. I fessed up quickly and he let me fly at a promised slower speed. that was about 1967-8. the car was built in 65 after my divorce my wife got the car and dropped it off at my work for me to sell so she could get a regular car. I took a large piece of card board and wrote (broke my heart but no way in hell would she let me have that car) FOR SALE $100 and parked it in front of the shop on Colorado Blvd in Pasadena. next morning a young guy was waiting for me with the cash. wanted to know if there was anyway I could help him tow it home. he thought it had no drive train. I told him what it had but I needed the battery back to give to my father in law. never saw him or the car again and had to buy my father in law a $37.00 battery on top that. it was my daily driver for over 8 years. still feels good to vent. should have put this on the over 60 post I guess
Thanks to all that have responded and keep the info coming. Also, has anyone out there done an early hemi transplant.? If so, your knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Again Don
Easiest way is to get the driver side exhaust manifold off a 273 (i.e. see ebay item 170287294802) and put the 318 in. The suspension is pretty decent, you can get a 84 Cavilier power steering rack and put that in if you need PS, or just go with the manual steering. I think the Duster driveline would be pretty close - not sure about the rear end width, hopefully close enough to make up the difference with wheel spacing.
Here are some ideas. If you use a 340 or 360 cyl. head the 273-318 A body manifold will be restrictive. I used a 360 with 72-up 340 manifold for better flow. The stock brake pedal and bracket required minor mods to mount a tandem Ford F100 master cylinder. The motor mounts were fabricated from 2x4 rectangle tubing with flathead style insulators from Speedway. Good Luck
this has also worked out well for me My donner car was a 78 diplomat. I used the rearend and driveline,318,904 with the lockup converter, good for 17.5 to 18 MPG on I-5 at 75-80. its not a street killer but fun and its always ready to go. the rearend was a was so close to bolt in I just redid the mounts and used stock rims, i put a dimple in the fire wall for the pass valve cover and didnt cut on the fenderwells. I used a rusty hope disk kit( but there is a vender on the page that sells the kits forgot his name in Wash state ) I wasnt here at the time other wise I would have went with a HAMB vender. I used a 273 manifold off a 65/67 B body.
MAN, all these ideas and great info and a lot of great work done by all of you gearheads!! Don't think I'm a flake from Cali but this could be my last request. I've decided to stay old school and have a line on a 331 HEMI out of 54 Chrysler. Just like the rest of you guys, I can make this happen but experienced info is welcomed. Have a Great Holidy Season Don
Check out Scooter McRad's hemi tech index. Is it a long tail 2 bl or a short tail 4 bl engine? Both were available in '54. A guy with a '48 Plym conv. with OEM frame said he had to recess the firewall 7" for a 392(same lenth as 331). My sedan with a Chevelle/Cutlass clip was no problem for a 55 331, fit in nicely!
if you look at the mopar chasis manual it tells you what you need to put a small block mopar in your car they even have part numbers for motor mounts, and i list of a body parts (exh manifolds etc) to use
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