Building a carbureted 4 cylinder intake manifold?

Hey guys,
If I end up keeping the four cylinder engine in my pickup, I was thinking of converting fuel injection to carburetion.
It is a 2.2L four cylinder, 134 cubic inch engine. Piddly 115hp at the crank.
My reasoning for this
1.)I was going to turbocharge the engine. It worked out to be $1500+ just for the extra injector controller, injectors, bosses, etc. Then I have the price of a turbocharger and intercooler, etc.

I think it'd be cheaper to run a carburetor, and then just change the jets out in it, if I turbocharge it.

2.) I would always play with the carburetor on a engine in our shop cl*** at school, I don't know what it is about them, but I find them so fascinating.

I am thinking of making a sheetmetal intake or a simple log manifold.
However I'm not sure how to make the part where the carb bolts onto, and the parts under it (plenum is it)? I don't understand how that stuff works, no how I'd make it myself.

I'm not sure how I'd figure out what size carburetor would be good for the engine.

 

I think I have found a suitable carburetor. For the 2.5L GM engines.. Theres not much in the displacement between the 2.2 and 2.5 so I think it would work..

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...919007+4294908400+4294902673+115&autoview=sku

Edit:
Was thinking I could make something like this


But for a single carburetor. What I don't understand is runners and the chamber under the carburetor.

OR this,

 

Carb size. Double the cubic inches will always get you in the ball park. Pick the closest avaiable to the size you get. For instance with 134 you need something around 268CFM. Anything even at 250 CFM would work well for a street driven vehicle. Carb need to be high enough above the plenum runners that the air and fuel will not have to make severe turns. I have built a few and they worked wel although never a 4 cyl but that should be easier. Two single carbs might be worth considering too.
Don

 

The first intake has two carbs for six cylinders. The carbs feed a chamber which feeds individual runners to the cylinders.

The second intake has three carbs feeding six cylinders. The individual carbs have two "barrels" and each barrel feeds a runner that feeds a cylinder.

Converting to carbs brings up a second issue; ignition. Most computer controlled fuel injected vehicles do not have a conventional distributor and coil based ignition. They use a system controlled by the same computer that controls the fuel injection system. Take that computer away and you have to do something else, usually expensive.

 

I put two SU carbs on my 154 Chevy II banger. A length of 2x4 tubing, sealed at the ends, for a plenum. Bolts welded in from the port runner holes hold the carbs. Angled the runners up a bit to clear the roadster-style headers. Works good!

 

What kind of pickup is it? Check into aftermarket support / mods for the F.I. before ****canning it for carbs.
Injectors can be swapped for higher flow rate ones, adjustable regulators, exhaust header, etc...

With today's caustic fuels and the ease of operation, I would NEVER go backwards and carburate a FI engine, but thats just me.

 

Is it a Toyota 2.2 liter? If it is, or something similar look up JARCO INC 770-479-4942. They are near Atlanta GA and they have all kinds of knoledge about turbo charging / supercharging 4 cyls. They sold me the charger that I had on my 2.3 liter Volvo motor.

 

No its a GM 2.2L four cylinder. To me its not justifyable to spend $1500-2000 on extra fuel for a turbo when I will only get ~170hp out of it.
Since its OBD1 and has a different intake than the 98+ motors, you cannot easily swap out the injectors for larger ones, nor can you reprogram the computer.
I was thinking with a carburetor or two, it would give me the extra fuel I need, for a lower cost, then I can justify the cost. I can get a turbocharger from a 2.5L from my neighbor and intercooler.. its just the fuel is the most expensive.

 

So two 1bbl carburetors?

 

Got any pics? I have two S.U.'s I am planning on putting on a 2.3. Ford...

 

s**** the stock engine management and go stand alone. i'm building a gm four banger myself to be turbocharged and i'm going with megasquirt. i'm hoping to do the everything (turbo, ems, i/c, fueling, etc.) for under $2000.

 

Ehh. I don't have an access to a dyno and stuff to set up the stand alone.
I don't see the point in spending alot of money on this engine..I think with around 5-6 psi you get around 170 whp. Not bad, I guess, for an engine thats about 88hp to the wheels stock...
Carb conversion would be rather unique too.

 

Yes pics would be nice.

 

you don't need a dyno to tune. you can tune by driving down the street. run the system in closed loop o2 and it basically self tunes itself.

if you're still going turbo then don't bother with the carb. go efi for better drivability and power. if you're going to stay n/a then the carb will work fine.

 

I built this one to put a Weber side-draft on my 2.5L Iron Duke.

 

What does the 2.5L have for an ignition system?

 

You can buy turbos (or superchargers) all day long from a wrecking yard or craigslist for a few hundred bucks (or less) . Save the fuel injection and use it . There are a lot of issues if you want to use an intercooler with a carb . Keep the FI , find a turbo and intercooler look into Megasquirt as was mentioned . You'll be happier . If the bottom end will hold it you can pull 300+ hp with a turbo and intercooler .

 

Stock HEI.

 

I'd be looking some where else for fuel injection stuff,
before I'd run a carb with a turbo.

You can build a complete Megasquirt, to control
fuel injection, ignition, etc for less than that.

"Draw through" give poor mixture distribution, with a turbo,
and won't work well with an intercooler.

"Blow through" has it's own problems.

 

Hmm, was waiting for somebody to post this.

 

I built one of the six-cylinder manifolds in the photo in the first post and my friend did the other one. Here is another of mine:


If you use a plenum under the carbs (which I recommend) make it about half the displacement of the engine, or a little larger. Good luck.

 

Not really sure what you mean by this.

 

Volume.

 

Oh....
I think I understand now.
So if I made something like this...


The cylindrical area under where the carburetor would go, would have to be 1.1Ls in volume, correct?
Any way to figure out runner length?


I don't know how I'd get the ignition to work though.. might as well give up now I guess.

 

My buddy says computer might still work with the throttle body removed and the other ****. I may make an intake and try it out, see if it works. Just disconnect the stuff.
How do you calculate runner length?

 

YEah two single barrels. Should be basic easy to use variety. As for distributor fabing a toothed belt drive and bracket for it should hardly use up a day. A bit of preplanning and parts collection should take care of that. Any 4 cylinder dist with a mech and vac*** advance. Dist runs 1/2 speed and must run the proper direction. Build the bracket and toothed pulley system so it is independant and so the dist bolts into it .
HOWEVER! if I wanted to turbo a 2.2 anything I would rob the turbo and TB from a Dodge daytona. Must only be about 12 million of them in the wreckers or parked on someone's lawn. Cant imagine having to give more than a $100 for a whole car. These turbos did not give trouble so are probably fine even used. In fact just sitting here i know where two are right now. Dont like using a Dodge turbo setup on a Chev? While Us Mopar guys never had any qualms about using a GMC blower on a Dodge so turnabout is always fair play. Now when you are building something like this you cant ask anyone for opinions because they will automatically say negative to what thy dont understand. In fact that is a great rule for you. When everyone says you're nuts you are probably on the right track.
Don
Runner length? Rule of thumb is 90 divided by the RPM desired in thousands. I E 6ooo rpm equals 90/6 =15 inches from THE VALVE to the Plenum. It is a workable way to figure this out.

 

Wow great post. Do you have any photos of this distributor system you speak of?
I think the Dodge turbo is a Mitsubishi or Garrett. Believe it or not, my neighbor has one. Same guy who has the 500 caddy motor I can get.
He wants $500 for the whole car. Car wouldn't be too bad 'a project, but I got a big enough project now with my truck.
The Daytona he has, the head gasket is blown or the head is warped, and its stuck in gear. It may be a linkage problem, or the transmission may be screwed.

I'd really like to see how this distributor drive looks. I know the 2.5L has a distributor.

 

Ok this is what I found outt.

"Iron Duke

*Cylinder #'s front to rear: 1-2-3-4
*Firing order: 1-3-4-2

2.2
1994
3,1,4,2 coil left to right, block front to back 1,2,3,4"

The Iron Duke (2.5) has a distributor, well at least the old ones did.
The 2.2 doesn't have a distributor.
The firing order is different from what I've found though, so how would I remedy this?

 

Relocate the spark plug wires to the correct firing order.

 

I figured.
I still don't understand what Dolmetsch is saying about the distributor drive, is it sorta like a blower drive, those kinda pulleys?

Are there any 1bbls that are cheap and easy to come by? I don't really want to use 'NOS' or old parts, I wanna leave them for you guys..

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...908400+4294908216+4294869676+115&autoview=sku

Is there a choke on this?