Best tube bender for the buck?

Exactly, they're out there, picked mine up real cheap. Thought the idiot had taken the hydraulics off of it. I pieced them back together for cheap too. ANd there are always dies available. Not exactly cheap, but they're usually less than the other ones I looked at.

 

I believe you, but that's ONE tool I HAVE looked for and struck out - I've run across a few, but none cheap - usually ridiculous. I am a FIRM believer in buying QUALITY USED TOOLS - could even be my motto, but ocasionally even a confirmed tightwad like me has to buy new - I was ready to start my digger project and struck out looking for used. I don't regret buying my bender for a second - it allowed me to proceed on my project. FWIW I still haven't run across a "deal" on a hossfeld - 7 years later. Usually with my luck about a month after I throw in the towel and buy something new - the deals will then start falling out of the woodwork - not this time. Too many people in the hunt I guess.

I did pick up a screaming deal on a pump and cyclinder so I hope I can get to it this winter and convert mine to hydraulic.

 

I have a Pro-Tools 105, that I hydro'd with pieces from Granger.

 

I've used the hydraulic Hossfeld for many years and I've become very comfortable with it. I did the cage in this Overland (1 5/8" O.D. X .134" wall) with a manual JD2 and hated that thing. It seemed to do everything backwards from what I was accustomed to.....especially regarding accuracy. The bends were fine however.

 

Ditto!

 

I have a JD2 and love it. Crosley cage was first use - all bends done first time - no scrappage! Hardest part is figuring out where bend gets started, but with a little figgering is not too hard!

 

JD2 added hyrdraulics from a ebay purchase. ~$800 in it with 2 sets of dies so far.

Bends fine, made a lot of money with it. Far more than it cost to buy.

 

Had a JD 2 for a while. Worked OK but there was just something about it that the guys in the shop didn't really like. Couldn't really put our finger on it but everyone agreed that the Hossfeld was better. So after having guys stand around to use the Hossfeld, we sold the JD2 and bought a second Hossfeld.
The shop next door had a Greenlee, made piss poor bends, lots of deformation in the bend.
Really like the Ercolina's but they are BIG bucks! (over $4k for the cheap one!)
Of course we also have a couple of Eaton Leonard's at my real job, couple hundred grand a piece

 

I have had a JD2 Model 4 for 5 years now and love it. Easy to use and I have a small workspace so it works well on a rolling cart. The other advantage is the folks at www.trick-tools.com are very knowledgeable and willing to help with questions.

 

I started out with an old JD 2 series one when I was doing part time chassis work. When I opened my shop I got a Pro Tools (JD by another name basically) and I have built a lot of cars using it. I used a Hossfeld at several shops that I worked at and both have their good points. I had to upgrade the arms on the Pro Tools unit to bend 1.75 x .125 moly but apart from that it has been a good unit. The dies are probably better than Hossfeld stuff as they are totally CNC machined. I once had a problem with a Hossfeld die in that the "tail" was not in line with the radius portion of the die in the horizontal plane. They replaced the die without any arguements but it shoud never have made it out of their shop like that.
Here are some photos of what I get to use now. It is a bit over the top cost wise but it sure turns out nice bends--less than 10 thou out of round at the apex.

Roo

 

Well, if you're going to bring out photos of the Big Guns, Here's one of ours.
Damn that shop is clean though!

 

I have it, I like it.

 

So you guys are talking about bending pipe for other things besides exaust? Cause those benders only bend up to 2 inch. Harbor freight has this bender that can bend up to 3 inch pipe for 189.00
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35336

 

Pipe and tube are different in measurement and wall thickness. The guys are considering benders for structural DOM tubing...a simple HF pipe bender is unsuitable for that use.

Do a search and you'll find all kinds of info on the differences between the two!

 

pipe is used to carry fluids or whatever on the inside so the importent measurement is the inside dia., tubeing is used to build things out of, its structural, so its measured on the outside, you can use a pipe bender to bend tubeing by useing a spacer, first you take your tubeing and use it to find what die is the first size up in dia. of your pipe bender, then you find the difference in outer dia. of the tube your bending and the outer dia. of the pipe thats ment to be used in the pipe bending die, you use that number to create a spacer in the shape of a u and place it on your tubeing, it will make up the difference between the tube and the pipe die, ya got that...lol, i have done this and it works pretty good, i have built my own mandrel tubeing bender for around $2500.

 

Bought a slightly used Pro-Tools 105 with 2 sets of dies, local, good price, and saved on shipping. Upgraded with their hydraulic cyl and adapter pieces [good support and service with the mail order] and my porta power pump for portability. Still on the learning curve [like with any new to me piece of equip/machine until operated more] but very satisfied with the nice bends in 1 3/4 and 1" 0.120 wall DOM. 100% satisfied with Pro-Tools portion so far.

Bit slow with my pump set up but gets me by for my present limited use needs just fine. Will be looking to upgrade the pump set up when shop capabilities and needs warrant in the future.

 

I've had two JD2s. The first one was a manual. It got a little loose in the pivot because A. I never lubed it(young and dumb) and B. I bent a huge amount of 1 3/4" .095 with it. I'd get tired and pull the handle at an upward angle. Think I was putting a bind or twist in the bender.

Got a chance to sell it and bought a hydraulic one. Before I even used it I drilled the pivot pin for a grease zerk. Also put a roller thrust bearing under the pivot arm so it's not a metal to metal deal anymore. Had it way longer than the first one and it's as tight as new although I think the ram pushing in a perfectly straight line has as much to do with that as anything.

I don't neccessarily care for their magnet pointer for the degree wheel, but once I get a known angle I just measure off the ram so I rarely use it.

You can work from the center out on a piece just have to think backwards.

My brother has an Irvan Smith bender, don't like it.

Worked in a buddy's shop with a Mittler for a short time. Would like to go back and try it now that he has their bend software and see if it's all that. I use a tapemeasure, calculator and a framing square.

 

How would the JD4 do with thin walled exhaust tubing?? used a old bend pac for years and it kinked more tube than anything.

 

It doesn't work at all. If you look at www.trick-tools.com at the dies it shows the minimum wall thickness.

 

Yeah kinda thought that. been looking for an economical ($2500 to 3500) tube bender and exhaust bender and was hoping I could find one to do both jobs, my last exhaust bender took up alot of valuable space and didn't make a lot of $$ with it.

 

Here is our latest addition to our arsenal of benders. It has 3 bending speeds and is very affordable. Check out the video. The price is $895

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe7xkG70zsc

 

nice bender, do you have plans to offer a mandrel attachment for bending up header tubeing?

 

No, it is not a mandrel bender. It is a rotary draw bender.

We do offer mandrel benders as well.

 

hossfeld

 

Hossfelds are nice. There are a ton of them out there.