I was given a pretty cool gift today, and would like to know some info on 2g carbs. My sister and her family were generous enough to get me a nailhead intake for Christmas. It is a Gear Drive fabbed intake, that takes 2 rochester 2g carbs. I had decided some time ago, that this is the way I was gonna head for my 401 (bone stock), I had elected to use rochesters instead of 94's or 97's due to cfm size, and tunability. I am going to be in the market for a couple of carbs, so I am here to pick your collective brains, before I purchase them. My questions are: -Which one of the small base 2g's flow the most cfm? -Which carbs should/can I use together, serial number, application? -Which serial numbers, applications, should I avoid? Thanks in advance, any help is greatly appreciated. -Joe Below is a picture of a similar intake, keep in mind, this one has 3 bolt flanges, the one I have has 4 bolt flanges.
When rebuilding a 2G, do you use the large or the small ball that comes in the rebuild kit? I know where it goes but which size?
jdubbya and mayolcars, If he doesn't see this thread try giving ****ster27 a PM. Guy knows his stuff and is a great guy. Sorry I couldn't be of any help. Fitysix PS Merry Christmas
Maybe ****ster can answer the following also; I have a double manifold and would like to know which carb is better to run the front or the rear. I am serious as it was raised as a could be issue by starving one end of the block??? It is a Burrell manifold used on the flathead Cadillac engine which runs two rochester 2 barrel (2G) carb's. <!-- / message --> <!-- / message -->
Looks like you are going to have to redrill the intake plates to accept the 2G four bolt bases. That intake looks like it's drilled and tapped for 3 bolt Strombergs or 94's
When you do get your answers, please post them. Let us all know, what & how everything works out. Thanks, Lucky667
Cool..then you are in good shape. I would check out a Speedway catalog. They sell complete overhaul kits....rebuild kit, new basplates, and new linkage...complete kits for a total overhaul with everything you'll need for your 2G's. The 2G's are not hard to rebuild. I got one of those Speedway kits when I ran 3 dueces on my last car and everything worked out great. The also sell a great book that will help that will help Carb kits http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Rochester-TriPower-Base-Kit-with-Linkage,5963.html Book http://www.speedwaymotors.com/How-to-Build-and-Modify-Rochester-Quadrajet-Carburetors-Book,5976.html Jerry
If you are looking for parts try Charlie at "Vintage Speed" in Fl. I sent him four 2G's this summer and he reworked them for my Henry,J. I got them, pulled them out of the box, bolted them on and was at the HAMB drags the next day out of the box. He flow test's them and adjusted them within 3 or 4 cfm I believe. I didn't have the time or the parts availability to do them myself. He has all new parts on the shelf and replaced all old worn out parts to keep the slop out of the ****erflies and such.
Joe, I've used this guy in the past. He really knows Rochesters and sells everything from complete set-ups to small parts. Rich http://www.hotrodcarbs.com/
The question on the check balls is the easiest. The answer pertains to 1974 and earlier carbs. We don't do newer ones, so maybe different for the newer ones. There are two designs of the pump inlet/discharge circuit: (1) The better (MOO) design uses two check balls; a small aluminum ball in the bottom of the pump well in the fuel inlet p***age from the bowl, and a larger steel ball retained by a spring and T-shaped retainer or guide located beneath the venturi cluster. (2) The cheaper design eliminates the aluminum ball under the pump, but retains the larger steel ball under the venturi cluster. The pump well is slotted, and fuel is supposed to enter the pump well through the slot. The question concerning CFM is more difficult. Some information may be found in the Doug Roe book "Rochester Carburetors". If Rochester published a listing of CFM by carburetor number I am unaware of it. The information in the Roe book is given by main venturi size; thus one must dis***emble the carburetor in order to measure the main venturi and determine CFM size. The question concerning using front or rear only carburetors requires inspecting the design of the manifold; but as a general rule, if using only one carb on a multiple manifold it should be the one where the airflow from the single carb is closest to the center of the intake. Observe that factory dual quad setups used the rear carb as the "primary" as the primary side of the rear carb is closest to the center. Fuel/air mix goes around corners like an aged Santa with a full bag of toys.......not very well! Always better to minimize the distance traveled and the corners turned. And one other comment on CFM: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carbshop_carbsizesandCFM.htm Jon.
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