i need to do some body filler with fine polyester putty, in summer i usually use a retarder in my filler (u-pol cool it), i cant find the bottle and its boxing day so everything is closed. its a scorching hot day and i know as soon as i mix it its going to want to set, i am doing some fiddly bits and need to slow down the setting time, i dont want to use too much less hardener, i figured maybe the retarder is just made of everyday chemicals, like 80% this and 20% that, maybe i have some thing here to mix. i cant stuff around and experiment, i have hardly any filler left in the tin.
Fibergl*** resin here. Slows it down and thins it out and makes it sticky as snot. Haven't used it in a reallllllly long time. I use less hardner without any problems.
Can't help you with the retarder, I just usually cut back on the hardener or work faster, but I'm really getting a kick out of the jargon down under. What exactly is boxing day?
its the day after christmas when everybody has had so many coldies since the christmas barbie the day before that they start punching each other out. you gotta be ****ting me, is there really no boxing day in america, do you just go back to work the next day after christmas? btw, notice i called bog body filler, becuase i know body filler is the universal worldly word for bog and we dont have any such thing as bondo here, i dont mind american bog though, i use evercoat rage gold bog on all the big areas, bog in australia can also mean poo/turd/****, eg after a big night you might say "im goin to the dunny for a grog bog" many believe the term bog used for plastic body filler originates from bog used as a alternative word for bog/****/turd. anyway it feels about 34 degrees here, you could fry a egg on the bonnet of a HQ holden in 5 seconds flat.
You can put less hardener in but don't take it too far because that can lead to trouble. Not a whole lot you can do to really slow it down. You might look into seeing if you guys have the new Evercoat Quantum fillers down there yet as they have different speed hardeners that you can use to slow things down. The hardener for hot weather is good for temps over 26 degrees C. I know it doesn't help you much now but maybe in the future it might help.
You can cut back on the hardener but only to a point - there needs to be enough to fully catalyse the resin in the filler. Because the reaction is temperature related (setting time halves for every ten degrees C you go up or something...) you could always try throwing the can in the fridge for a while before you mix it - it will thicken it up some though.. May also need to clear out some of those coldies to make space first! Barry
Well... some folks have to go right back to work and some folks get to goof off another day or two. I'm goofin' off. I've just never heard it called boxing day. Actually, tomorrow I'm going to pick up a rust-free '55 Chevy project car I found for a great price. BTW, Evercoat Rage Gold is my "bog" of choice, too. One more silly Yank question...where is the dunny located?
Boxing Day was originally a British tradition where the servents of the house and the owners switched positions for a day ie. the owners waited on the servants for the day. It has been twisted into a big retail sale day in Canada and most people get it off.
34 degrees let me see....... double that and add 30.... WOW that's 98 degrees F. **** man get in the shade and pop a cold one. I was told boxing day was for everyone to box up their gifts for return. Use less hardner.
what a pisser of a thread this turned into the dunny these days is located in the house but when i was a kid it was in a shed down the back yard and the dunny in older places was still just a can. usually the dunny is located near the bathroom or even in the bathroom. i got up at 6am, should have done the bog/filler/bondo then, its on some press ****ons that go in the doors, these sit flush with the panel and give the appearance of shaved handles, in australia it is illegal to have no machanical entry to the car that is easily visible to rescue and fire services, we can not just run solenoids, this is the best we can doi am just doing the finishing bits of filler, i tried a mix at 1/3" to half a golf ball size filler about 10 minutes ago and it started to harden in about 8 seconds, 2 minutes later i crumbled it of with my finger. i searched the shed hi and low and still couldnt find it. i could try the fridge, this stuff is already pretty thick, the coldies are in our 1957 crosley shelvador in the kitchen, our old fridge is in the back room, the old freezer is used for steak suasages, ice cream and bread and the fridge part is used for stuff like preserving activated epoxy primer longer so it already smells like bodywork stuff, thats why we stopped using the fridge part in the old on for food.
yeah i thought boxing day was for that when i was a kid, the big shops are open like k mart, target and supercheap auto's, all the boxing day sales are on and the returns and refunds ques are long.
i could go throw another shrimp on the barbie and wait till it cools down but we dont have shrimps in australia, just prawns and we dont barbeque prawns, just snags/bangers/suasages and steak and onions. i wanted to get some primer on these parts asap so i can wack on some colour tomorow morning before going away. we are off on holidays to a caravan park, or is that trailer park there.
How much hardner are you using? If your puddle of filler is 2" across run a ribbon of hardener about1/3 of the way across (normally it would be about 1/2) If it is more like 4" in size run a ribbon about 2/3 of the way across (normally all the way across) see if that slows it down for you. And your probably smart in not doing right at the hottest point in the day.
I was out slingin the "moose" in Melbourne today, and **** I hadta work QUICK! Coz hell....what else are holidays for??????
Yep its boxing day here in B.C. its a crazy bargain sales day, kinda like black friday after thanksgiving in the US
An old trick with varnish is to set the can in a bowl of ice. Common deal with boating people so as to slow down the drying time and let the varnish flow so it will have maximum gloss. Works well since varnish usually comes in small cans. In fact, there is such a thing as "Chilled Varnish" and I believe that's the way it's supposed to be used. I've done the same thing with fibergl*** resin after it's mixed. Mix the resin in a small, clean can and set it down in a bowl of ice cubes. With both the varnish and resin you have to be careful not to get ice or water into them. You don't sink the varnish and resin can deep into the ice cubes, just cooling the bottom 1/4" - 1" is enough. No reason why the same wouldn't work for Bondo. And I'm sure you're working in the shade. No shade most times is why boaters do the ice bowl trick.
Not to over simplify this deal but ,why not make several small piles with the hardner next to the filler .then mix as you go thats what we do in texas in the summer months.c
I've never used a cure inhibitor for body filler or polyester resin. There's a lot of info on them but mostly for manufacturing or industrial applications. If you don't like a long read skip to the bottom of the post to the Evercoat "FAQ" link for some basic GREAT info on body fillers, resins, and polyester primers. http://www.justintanks.com/def.html inhibitor http://books.google.com/books?id=aC...=X&oi=book_result&resnum=7&ct=result#PPA65,M1 hydroquinone http://www.eastman.com/NR/rdonlyres/C35DD6B1-BD0C-43B2-AE58-EE1BE1762B67/0/GN407.pdf catechol Inhibitors Inhibitors are used to lengthen the gel time of vinyl ester and polyester resins to give a controllable cure. The most widely available is a 10% solution of tertiary butyl catechol (TBC). Inhibitors should be used with care as additions above 0,25% can lead to undercure, low Barcol, or reduced corrosion resistance. Recommended inhibitor levels vary from type to type and from resin to resin. A general guide for addition levels is up to 0.30% of a 10% solution. Some common inhibitors include tertiary butyl catechol (TBC), hydroquinone (HQ), and toluhydroquinone (THQ). Tert-butyl catechol is not effective with ***ene hydroperoxyde systems. http://www.dsm.com/en_US/html/drs/grp_sub4.htm You might be able to find these chemicals at a place that manufacturers fibergl*** products and parts. (shower stalls, building facia, boats, recreational vehicles) If you find some get the name of the manufacturer of the inhibitor chemical on the container. Give them a call and ask to speak to a lab tech or chemist for information on usable amounts. It has been my experience that most fibergl*** manufacturering companies don't usually have a chemist on staff. Or call Evercoat and see if you can speak to someone in the lab--NOT SALES. http://www.evercoat.com/about.aspx And after all that chemical BS----Here's some real good info on their site for body filler novices and old hands alike: http://www.evercoat.com/faq.aspx C9's tip sounds good to me. An old trick with varnish is to set the can in a bowl of ice. Common deal with boating people so as to slow down the drying time and let the varnish flow so it will have maximum gloss. Works well since varnish usually comes in small cans. In fact, there is such a thing as "Chilled Varnish" and I believe that's the way it's supposed to be used. I've done the same thing with fibergl*** resin after it's mixed. Mix the resin in a small, clean can and set it down in a bowl of ice cubes. With both the varnish and resin you have to be careful not to get ice or water into them. You don't sink the varnish and resin can deep into the ice cubes, just cooling the bottom 1/4" - 1" is enough. No reason why the same wouldn't work for Bondo. And I'm sure you're working in the shade. No shade most times is why boaters do the ice bowl trick. __________________ Sailing the turquoise canyons of the Arizona desert. C9
I usually go back to work the day after Christmas and we all punch each other out there at work. FWIW, I spent my morning slinging Rage Gold. Same small areas too. I mix just enough to fill whatever little spot I happen to working on. Sometimes that means only mixing filler the size of a marble. Depends on how hard it is to access the area, how "close" I want the filler to be to final shape without alot of sanding, the temperature, etc...... We have a guy a work that mixes his Rage on one side of the shop and walks all the way to the other side of shop where he's working (100 ft) and spreads it. He doesn't use an excessive amount of filler and his work is good but I have always wondered about how he has the time to walk the distance without sacrificing set up time.
The Jalopy Journal
