My thoughts exactly. This could be very bad. JimSibley had the same thing happen to him. He posted a thread about it, check it out. I wouldn't drive it at all until it's resolved. I would put big money on a rear supsension problem, and since the ass end follows you, when at speed, it can pass you.....making for a mad party.....high speed donuts and poweslides are only fun when you started them. Mott
Here's the deal. It probably not a rear steer issue, rear steer on a torque tube rear takes quite a bit of body(chassis) roll before it kicks in. But before you act like a dog chasing its tail you are going to have to start trouble shooting. Here is the quick version. First start and look for any signs lose parts or cracked fastening brackets. Next is to make sure that the tires are matched size front or rear, Make sure the tire pressures are equal side to side. The next step is to make sure that the front end and rear end are installed square to the chassis and square to each other, there are a couple older posts on how to do this. If all this is done and a test drive still indicates that the issue is still there then its time to look at parts and construction. The first spot is the steering box. It has to be adjusted tight and on center, If it is not adjusted correctly or is worn no mater what you do the problem will still be there. Since you indicated that there was a little play there, this needs to be addressed. Next in my observation is the conflicting angles of the radius rod and the drag link. Since the rotation of the engine on acceleration causes the driver side of the frame to rise, I'm leaning to some of your steer issue is that the swing arc of the radius rod is rising and drawing the front axle back slightly, this creates two situations. This induced roll raises the steering box and as the conflicting arcs change, the drag link angle is actually creating a shorter link. To compensate for the change, the rigid drag link is initiating a slight left rotation to the spindle. Now you don't feel this left turn as you accelerate but as you get off the gas the chassis levels and you readjust your steering to the right to recenter the track, this action is interpreted to be a pull to the right. Anyway you have already stated the box is used and has some hard miles on it, the first thing to do is fix the steering box.
If your front spring is light enough that the front end actually works, stand on the front frame horns and jump up and down. If the front wheels rotate on the kingpin slightly as this is done, you have bump steer.
I'm wondering about the bone to tie rod clearance. Wouldn't take much frame twist to bind there, if it's as close as the pics seem to show.
Thanks for all the input and I think Mr. Spadaro has hit it from what I have found. Me and my father in law went on a short ride today to get a better feel of it and he watched for problem areas. First thing he told me is to rebuild the steering box, it was worn completely out. I do have quite a bit of play in the steering box, way more than even comfortable to drive. I have already went completely over the car for loose bolts, checked all tire pressures, checked for square on everything. I am going to do a complete rebuild of the steering box and go from there. He did some measurements and he drew out the arc of the radius rods vs. the draglink. See pics. Anyways, thanks to all for the information. This place is a wealth of knowledge to be taken advantage of. As I said the next step is an overall build of the steering box and I'll repost how things go! Josh
jmon I meant tie rod, not drag link. Like Rick says it doesn't look like it could twist without binding.
It looks like you have a very similar problem to me at the moment on my Falcon gasser, From what I have been told your problem is the steering arm, it should be straight ie; if you took the ball on the end of the arm off of the pitman arm and swang it round paralel to the axle it should be the same angle ie; paralel to the ground, The other issue you have is the steering arm and radius rods are moving in two different arcs hence the bump steer affect, my Falcon does the same thing, accelerate hard and it pulls hard right, back off the throttle and you have to steer hard left, Just in the middle of sorting mine out http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3410386#post3410386 Tony
Does the unit have cross steering or front left? Does the front end lift up when you accelerate? If so I agree above comments the axel may be moving relative to the steering gear which is attached to the frame. Stay off gravel roads till it is fixed.............or it is gonna hurt.
I would put the car up on 4 stands with the wheels off the ground . Now start at the fron or rear and test EVERY nut & bolt to find out what came loose . When you find the problem , don't stop there . It might have shaken something else loose too , so keep going and finish checking ALL the nut & bolts . Also check the welds that hold the suspention to the frane ! Be careful and don't drive that car !!! Keep us posted on what you find out is the problem .
Is it a "pull" or more like a "float" to one side? Also,did you box the frame if not model A frame were built to "twist".i would box the frame and ad panhard bar if not already installed....stiffen up that chassis.My 2 cents.
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