inexpensive paint job

Here's my proven recipe for a $300 paint job that's totally p***able as a $3000 pro job.

Tractor enamel, the kind you buy in gallons at farm type stores. Allis chalmers orange is my personal fave, not that far off hugger orange. But we're digressing....

One paint gun will do it all, we're not talking ridler winner here. At first I used a $50 craftsman HVLP suction gun for everything, but the cleaning was getting me down so now it's a primer gun and an equivalent devilbiss is the topcoat gun. Still under a hundy though.

Spend on decent epoxy primer, something in a "fleet" line at your local paint shop. Don't be shocked to pay $150 with catalyst. This pays off in 2 ways, it'll have higher fill than super cheap primer, thus helping blocksanding pay off. And it'll stick much better than the cheap stuff, adding years of durability.

When you're at the actual paint store, pick up some enamel hardener to add to the tractor paint, it'll enhance gloss and durability.

You can buy metallics and pearl powders, but cheap enamels aren't that translucent and it doesn't pay off well. And makes it super difficult to do a panel repaint, which is common for beginners and experts alike.

So now you've got about $250 in primer and topcoat. The remaining $50 will cover sandpaper and buffing.

The thing to remember about a cheap paint job, is making it look good is just as time consuming as an expensive paint job using $2500 worth of materials. Sometimes moreso, in this case the cheap paint won't flow out like a quality product. It's only fixed with the buffer and wetsanding.

So compensate for the inevitable paint clarity issues with tons of blocksanding in process, and tons of buffing afterward.

What you're ultimately seeking is a level of "crispness" and gloss that hits the viewer in the face so hard, they don't look super close. Which is really a product of sweat equity more than material. Know what I mean?

good luck

 

Not trying to be an ***hole but please tell me what is UNSAFE about painting a car outside....I have sprayed primer outside for years and nothing terrible has happened....and the results look fine.....

 

Everyone seems to have their own idea on how to paint a car. There are several very capeable people on the H.A.M.B. to help you out. paint is probably the most picky expensive thing to tackle on a car. I would say its 90% of the apperance of the car. Paint is the most Important. First of all Cheap marerials like tractor paint wont be the best idea. dont get me wrong it has its place(tractors) or frames. Pick a system and stay with it. use compatiable materials. Meaning use a primers, sealers and topcoats that are all compatable. Cheaper lines of paint systems have their place and arent bad, every car is different and one car might not deserve a $25,000 paint job. If I were you I would get someone to help you out. And In my experience paint store guys get you in more trouble than anything. use the search and you can read an abundance of information on paint. You can paint outside but its hard to see, its not the best for you health, and dirt and bugs can get in it. So dont expect perfection when painting outside.

 

^ absolutely

 

Rod33, You say primer, but it depends on what you are spraying. Any paint that contains the "bad" stuff can be dangerous. The wind can blow it back into your face or carry into the neighbors yard. In most cases it may not do any damage, but to someone that may be sensitive to the "bad" stuff it can have very bad effects.
Secondly, if big brother finds you spraying bad stuff, you are in for unpleasent things.
Neighbors don't like smelling "stuff" and will ***ume it is bad.
If you think that these paints don't really do bad things, you are wrong.

 

There is no way to have a dust free perfect paintjob ever. Period. That is my opinion though. In all honesty you can have a 300dollar paintjob done with modern materials. Theres a reason no one uses lacquer anymore in paintshops...im sorry to anyone that i offend. You could use the MP182 omni i think is the number its a high build primer. That with catalyst should be right around a hundred bucks. PPG or omni makes single stage that you should be able to latch onto for under 150 for most colors. The PPG paint im talking about i cant remember the line but its a good product. As for painting it outside id definantly do it in the early morning. Otherwise there will be **** everywhere in the paint. Id probably try and find a buddy that has a garage though... Do take caution with these new products though...everyone reacts differently to them. Probably wont effect you but who knows. Im solvent sensitive now and when ever i breathe lots of the fumes ill break out in hives now. So wear protection. My .02

 

I hate to admit it, but the brush method is what i used. Plain old rustoleum from Home Depot. Thinned with mineral spirits (about 30%) and applied with a foam brush. Very little prep, just went for it. My plan is to repaint one day, but for now I like it. The white was sprayed last year and the black was just done 2 weeks ago. I did 6 coats, no sanding since its flat. Put it on like you are just wetting the surface, not painting. Then you get virtually no runs. I let each coat dry for at least one full day. I am going to apply more design work on top, some stripes here and there. I provided a close up for you. One thing you can do, no matter what method you go with, is paint a metal panel first to try it out before you touch the car and see what you think. (the key is to lick the brush every now and then )

 

Check this site out if you're on a really strict budget.
http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx

 

I was in a HF store the other day and they had the gravity HVLP gun for $20; bought mine 10 yrs ago and it stilll works great. Cleaning the gun makes the difference. Try smart shoppers for your paint and materials:

www.smartshoppersinc.com

Order over the fone and your goodies should show up on your front doorstep in a couple days. They have acrylic enamels, urethanes, and the rest. Good prices and have had good luck at all of them. IMHO, most of the work is in prep and body work, so why not try a better paint job?? Somebody that could help you would be an ***et

Good luck!!

gaspumpchas

"got any more o' them secret agent spy scopes??"

" hit parade on the stethoscope?? you got the wrong number, pardner.."

 

Sounds like a poor workman blaming his tools. You have to get used to these as they use a very different technique. 80% or better of the paint goes on the job with minimal overspray. Ken1939 has it right - slow reducer and READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. They work great if used as they should be.

 

The late Andy Alvarez was one of the very best auto painters in Southern California, and we're talking Pebble Beach/Ridler winning quality here. In 1980 his paint jobs started at $8000 - he painted outside in the yard behind his shop - nuff said.

 

I don't know what the area is like were you live, but its always a possiblity you could have the city on your case if they see you painting in a residential area, or a neighbor complains, which they have a right to if you are putting hazardous chemicals.
I've been lucky to live in the country without neighbors on top of me for most of my life, or have a garage I could paint in. But many have turned out pretty nice paint jobs in a garage or less then ideal places without having a booth.

In my early 20's though, When I first graduated tech school though, I did get a call from a friend asking if I'd help out one of his friends painting an old lincoln that was stretched into a limo he bought. Get over there and they have a big tent set up made out of tarps, and a smaller compressor with an extension cord run to it sitting outside. After me and the owner spent a good part of the weekend sanding and doing some body work, I began laying paint saturday evening as the sun was setting with delstar enamel. Getting low on light during the last coat. I wanted to wait till sunday morning to paint, but he couldn't wait, and had an audience watching me lay the paint, as they were getting ready to party that night.

If you must paint outside, I suggest you at least build some kind of shelter, to lessen the possiblity of a bunch of **** blowing in your paint. And at least set up a few fans for ventilation, and wear a tight fitting respirator with new filter. Avoid painting if there is high humidity. Try tp start painting early in the morning when insect are less active, and the sun is low. Last thing you want as a bunch of critters flying around finding a way in for a free high (and they seem to gravitate toward paint being sprayed and land smack in the middle of the hood or roof) or have the hot sun baking the surface of the car, and the paint spraying out of the gun already drying before it hits the car, leaving a rough and cobby surface, or skimming over the top before solvent can escape leaving solvent pop.

If you don't have the equiptment to spray or a nice big compressor, the smallest I suggest you try to get by is a 3hp 110 model, and that will most likely limit you to a conventional spray gun. Conventional spray guns are cheaper, and can still produce a nice job, but will have more overspray and use more paint. Look at the cfm ratings on your compressor, and make sure they meet or excede your spray gun and sander.

And if you have never painted before, Also would be a good idea to practice spraying some parts first and getting use to maintaining a decent spraying technique, and how to adjust your gun, and what adjustments do. Study up and don't be afraid to ask questions as they come up. Good luck
Take a look at this guys site that is on a few other boards I visit, first time painting a car and done it in a temporary booth he built. http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id23.html
I would think even the best applied roller job, would be more work getting looking nice then a so so spray job using an automotive paint that will be able to buff (unhardened enamels and single stage metallics are out)
Where there is a will there is a way. Don't let anyone tell you you can't produce a decent paint job without a big dollar downdraft booth or a 400 gun, although they do make things easier. The biggest thing is going to be you commitment to producing the best job you can and proper prep, and not endangering your neighbors or getting a visit from the city looking to fine you.

 

I am so sick of naysayers i could honk!

 

I don't think there's anything wrong with Tractor enamel... Here's my driveway results. First is Allis Orange (obviously) and turned out beautifully with no sanding at all. The second is John Deere Satin Black. Ignore the rat rod theme I just painted it to sell and it went quick. Used a Rust inhibiting primer both times.

 

Been painting since before the HVLP stuff. I bought into the TIP sales pitch on how good the turbine stuff is. Bought one, total garbage, was ALL sales hype, finished the job with a REAL gun. I did go step by step to a t on what they said to do. Have had mine up for sale locally for 2 years with NO TAKERS, I'm just not into the shipping of it to try to sell online. Do yourself a favor guys, buy a regular HVLP gun over the turbine garbage, hell, even the purple HF unit sprays better.

 

but of course, you are wrong. Tractors are subjected to more adverse conditins than cars are. Cheap don't necessarily reflect quality. ACRYLIC ENAMEL costs ANY store about $30 a gallon, their cost. The 'expense' is in the markup.

Paint at the "Tractor store" or other sources is basically the same as any paint store. The differerence is in the services provided.
In a full-blown automotive paint store where literally thousands of colors are available because of services they provide, mixing machiness, hute stocks of pigment, etc., the cost to provide those services are added in to the markup.

In a “tractor supply”, or any paint outlet that only stocks pre-packaged paint, already mixed, what you get off the shelf is all there is. They don't have a lot of overhead in mixing equipment, etc. The color choices are limited, but the overhead is a lot less, so the paint costs a lot less. There ain't a big "PPG plant where they mix cheap paint for tractors only".

 

look here http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/ I have paint several cars with their stuff and they all turned out great.

 

A few additional thoughts:

My dad bought a TiP Turbine system about 18-20 years ago. I've painted probably 25 cars with it; he's done at least 75 plus God knows how many golf carts, lawnmowers, etc. I love it. Self contained, good flow-out, and coverage you just can't get with a conventional air-powered gun, even a HVLP conventional. I'd buy one of my own if I couldn't keep borrowing his.

Tractor enamel is great - used it on numerous race cars. Tough stuff, and when it's done, it looks as good as anything else that is prepped and finished accordingly. Color selection is the main difference.

As far as the roll-on paint, I really want to try that technique. It will just take the right car or truck to do it with.

The biggest thing about paint (other than prep) is PRACTICE. Get ahold of fenders, old tables, file cabinets, workbenches, toolboxes, etc. and paint the heck out of them. Don't paint a car until you can lay on a nice coat of paint on a fender.

 

Check Maco before anything, they are profesionals they are cheap, and you wont end up with a ton of **** you will never use again. I guarentee you will use way too much suplies and it wont end up cheap in the long run.....my 2 cents

later

 

I did mine under a car port with blue tarps tied all the way arround. Had a couple of box fans with air conditioning filters strapped to them to get rid of any fumes. didn't come out too bad. Still need to do further color sanding and buffing.

 

do a search for Kirker paint. Lots of people like it and it's very reasonablel.

 

Im not saying tractor paint wont look good. And Im not saying It wont hold up, or its a waste of money. Use it if you want, But nothing can match the superiority of An Arcylic uerethane Base Coat Clear coat, or a Single stage. If you need durability a polyurethane is the best. Acrylic Enamel in old news it works but it is not the best. And if your on a budget and you cant afford $2000 in materials try a Value Line like Nason or Omni. You can paint a car for $500 In materials and thats a cheap budget. Do it right or dont do it. Save up and do it right. No offense but most people dont know what a nice paint job is. As long as its shiny its "nice". They dont know what they are looking at. Dont use a roller or a brush its not right. People can disagree all they want but there is better things out there than tractor paint.

 

54 responses and the original poster hasn't even replied,,lol and now people are just arguing between each other,,,to funny

 

water down for driveway that way the paint will stick to the water and not your driveway!!!!! learned that the hard way

 

good advice .....part of my garage floor is GM silver blue

 

FAIL.... We painted my 73 Nova OUTSIDE in a stone driveway back in August 1989. Now, the car is garaged but paint still looks like the day it was shot almost 20 years ago. Dupont Centauri w/hardner shot with my dad's favorite Binks #7 conventional gun, no HVLP or turbine. Now to be fair, the ground was hosed down to keep the dirt from blowing up and a couple of bugs landed in the trunklid requiring that to be wet sanded and reshot but the paint on this car looks like a piece of gl***. My dad's old model A's were also shot outside back in the 70's. Black laquer, rubbed out with Blue Corral 3 step. Looked like you could swim in them. Dad has painted A LOT of cars outside. With proper preparation and timing it when the neighbors are away, you will have no problems... Just don't make a business out of it

The bottom pic is where we shot the car at, but taken last winter.

 

I just got back from Tractor Supply Co. with a gallon of hunter green, a gallon of i-h tan, a quart of naptha and two pints of hardener with some change from a C note. I did not get primer as none said they were sprayable. I'll find out how it sprays in a couple weeks as ratio is not usual 8:2:1 color:reducer:hardener but is 16:1:1 with naptha thinner.

 

I like how all of you chime in like you are pros, anyone who paints cars for a living will tell you that it IS unsafe to paint in your driveway, and the results WILL be less than spectacular. Tractor paint IS garbage and will not last more than 3 years when left outside every day. The best way for a novice on a budget is to use the cheaper lines like n***on, omni, lessonal, these are made by the brand names and don't carry the higher price but are similar quality. Also spray it in a garage set up like a booth and you will have a good looking quality job. Now I am not saying you cannot paint you car with cheap paint, or in your driveway, but I am saying that in person I can tell your car was painted with tractor enamel or in you driveway, and so can anyone else who paints cars for a living. So tell Me I am wrong, I really don't care, but please don't offer your advice on how to half ***ed paint a car with ****ty materials in ****ty conditions to others as "Good Advice".

 

You obviously didn't read my post about the late paint supremo Andy Alvarez did you?