How many freakin mounts do you need ?

My 56 Chevy has a cammed little 350 ,M22 4spd ,and a stock dropoout rearend .I peeked undernieth her and it has the stock pin motor mounts ,mid bell mounts and a fabed rear trans crossmember and mount.Is all this needed ? Can i loose the bell mounts or not ?

 

Why not just leave them in there, is there a reason you need them gone ?

 

Just seems like excess bagage to have all three mounts.Will it rock if i take one out or not ?

 

I cut mine off for exhaust clearance.

 

If you're using the stock front mounts and a rear trans mount you need the middle mounts, otherwise you risk the bellhousing breaking with no support in the middle of the engine and trans combo.

 

then again I have side motormounts. Are you using the stock front ones? that might make a difference.

 

Fair enough , i guess i will leave it then .Thanks ...

 

^^^^ Right on the money

 

I don't understand why you would need to take them out just for the sake of taking them out.. Unless they are in the way of something else... Are you just bored?

 

I can't see the need for the rear trans mount in this instance. If you've got the bellhousing mounts in place and hooked up, anyway.

-Brad

 

Its mainly because i would like to install a ****tershield and ditch the early bell setup...

 

Been plenty ran with front and rear mounts since the 50's.

Get that ****ter shield on ther asap the drags are coming up.

Btw I love the 56 you got. Looks good

Rusty

 

IF YOU ARE GOING TO BE TURNING THE rpm'S THAT YOU NEED A ****TERSHIELD, then run mid engine motor mounts with trans tailshaft mount. front motor mounts run with bell housing mounts. thats the only formula you need to remember. when you vary from the formula stuff breaks more. good luck cadillac dave

 

Thanks for the comps on the 56 Rusty.I will be at the Thaw with the 56 but i doubt i will race it.Its got 3.31's and a 220 low M22 4 spd .As hard as i am on 4 spd cars on a track ,it will proly just burn the clutch with that much weight ,and still wont even get in the 8's .I think im gunna build a race only car to thrash on and leave this'un for daily driving and road trips.I learned my lesson on dual purpose cars with the Falcon.I just like the idea of a ****tershield on anything with a stickshift.See you at the Thaw ...

 

A lot of the ****tershields have provisions for the midfifties bellhousing mounts.

 

Narrow mounting points up front and a center mount at the tail of the trans will most likely cause the engine to twist way over under hard acceleration...which COULD result in clutch linkage/shifting problems, jammed throttle syndrome...or simply tearing the engine right off the mounts altogether.
Tri 5 Chevys were designed to use the bellhousing mounts as the main absorbers of torque...not the front mounts. You NEED wide triangulation in the mounting, not what is basicly a straight line!

Also as mentioned, the distance between the mounts lengthwise puts a lot of strain on the bell housing area.
I've seen automatics snap in two from such a setup in Drag use.

Why not fab some bulletproof captured round bushing mounts off the 350 side plates and do away with the front and bellhousing mounts altogether, if you feel the car will be used hard enough to require a ****tershield?

Clutch safety IS important...but not if the required modifications to improve it make other areas of construction/design more likely to fail!!!

 

When I installed a 350 chevy and 700R4 in my 55, I did a lot of research on what type of mounts to use and talked to some tri-five builders. This is the basis of what I learned , if you use the original front pin mounts you must use the rear bell housing mounts , If you update to the later model mid mounts and a trans mount you don't need the pin mounts or the bell housing mounts, either way to go is okay , but considering GM hasn't run the pin mount in many decades and convered to the midmounts should answer your question , the only flaw I can find with mid mounts is to check the bonding rubber in the mid mounts for cracks every few years and relace if deterioration is visable, they are prone to separtion after deterioration under hard excelaration. Getting rid of the bellhousing mounts frees up a lot of space to run exhaust and late model column shift linkage. In you case as described I would remove the pin mounts and the bell housing mounts although you did not say if you had a good trans mount , Hope it helps,,,,,

 

I had the same ?s.On the mounts for my 56.(thanxs to the search ****on)Now i dont have to waste time starting a new thread.So i have decidide to go with the side mounts on the side of my 327 and the mount on the back of my t-10.Is this the best way to go.I will not be racing the damn thing for a while due to the 308 gears in the stock rearend.Everybody says to take it easy cause you will break that rearend.(you will shoot your eye out sort of thing).

 

Yes

Non posi with almost no weight on the rear wheels..equals no traction...it should be fine

 

back in the 60s a friend had a 12 sec. 56 chevy broke alot of muncie tail housings until he went to mid mount and tailhousing mount in the car.

 

OK.Thanx for the input.Now how about clutch linkage?I have a aluminum bel housing with the Z bar ball on it.Is the stock clutch linkage going to work or am i modifying any thing?I am using stock pedals