If you want a radical idle and don't care about low end performance, you might look at a "second design Z-28" cam. Talk about feeding time at the zoo, it'll stand your hair on end. That being said, I gotta agree with going with modern cam technology. They've learned a lot in the last 40 years. Larry T
I have to agree with Fab32 ... Day in and Day out ... on the street ... as a general rule, the 350HP camshaft would out run, out pull and out do the solid lifter camshaft. Because MOST fellows cannot properly adjust the valves or didn't I built a LOT of engines for others, back in the late 60's and early 70's ... and I quit using the GM original grinds ... because the newer aftermarket camshaft grinds worked better. I always installed a hydraulic camshaftfor those I built a engine for. If they could not build a engine, I felt they would not keep the valves adjusted ... then the engine would perform poorly and that would reflect badly on the engine I built. The GM camshafts were more of a one size fits all and the specialized grinds from the CAMSHAFT folks could be taylored to the weight, gear ratio and size of the engine. Disclaimer I did install a 097 Duntov in my 283 plus .060 for my 40 Ford coupe. Just because that was what had been it since the 50's ... and I wanted to keep it the way it was, when I rebuilt the engine.
Good point! It had a 3.36 rear and a Muncie in it. It wasn't that it lugged off a stop that didn't impress me, it just didn't accelerate like the later combination did from 2500 to 6000. Maybe if I have 4.11 gears and was willing to spin it higher, I'd have liked it more. I didn't shift much higher than 6500 (didn't drag it, but had plenty of fun with it!).
Yeah I'm going to shit can my 97s for the more efficient electronic FI. Apples and oranges...nostalgia and efficiency.
I ran the 097 and the 30-30 back in the day loved them both. I indexed my 30-30 and found it was almost identical to an Isky 280 Hydraulic. I swithched to the Isky as I was running a '65 FI and did not like taking the top off to run the valves. My son has a masters in Mech engr. and did a report on cams. He got the engineering specifications on a lot of GM cams. The 097 took 1/4 page to describe. The 30-30 took 1/2 page. The later off road cams took several pages.There may have been some advances made.
Jmo like some of the other hambers, we ran them back in the 60 's it was the best cam for the money back then, ran them in my 301- 283 .120 over. 11to1 or 12 to 1 comp. $20 at the chevy dealer. However there are to many better choices today.if you like the sound try the thumper by comp. Sounds good and makes decent power thru the rpm ranges.
thanks for all the input. i think i am going to have my engine builder help me choose my cam. does anyone have a video of the 30-30 at idle.
Great street cam for a little hot rod and a 327. Good choice! I had one in a 327...11-1 compression and 461 heads with 1.94 valves and a Edelbrock c3bx intake ,2500 and a 4.11 posi. It was brutal in a little 32.
Painc...You are my Hero for the day. so, You don't want to tell anyone You're running a modern cam, yet You're willing to install aftermarket heads...hmmmm... I have a "make Yourself and everyone else happy" solution. Isky has been making cams as long as anyone else, and has as good a reputation as anyone in the business. There is an EXTENSIVE cam selecting/explanation guide in the tech archives- it has to do with cylinder pressures, how, where and why pressures bleed off, and what is ultimately the easiest way to get the cam for thump and for go. I am a HUGE fan of the isky "Mega" series camshaft. in any application, the noise being produced is a simple by-product of thier potential for serious power. it also affords you the "bang" of a solid lift camshaft without the hassle of solid lifters. ( I run solid rollers- You want to get into new tech+big power with an oddly mild Idle, check one of those out!) if you want big power and a great idle, get in touch with Isky. You won't be dissappointed. and as far as Comp is concerned....better learn how to work that degree wheel. You're gonna need it.
Better watch out--Getting outside the mainstream WONT be tolerated by these Guys--Especially with that handy Report button! After all, This is a Hotrodders Forum, And EVERYONE Knows a Good hotrodder does NOT deviate from the Norm!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
Ran one in a '61 Chebby ragtop in'65. Noisy, loud, 6.5 mpg when a 17 year old drives it on the weekends....with a 2bbl Rochester.
I run this cam in stock cars and lots of solid lifter stuff NEVER set it running just warmed engine up and bumped it over till off the lobe and run the feeler and adjusted , worked for me 18 years of stock cars I also run them at about 015 clearance I also run one in a 283 w powerglide and got it to pull from the bottom but took close to 3 days tuneing, timing is important most of the time in short track stock car racing they run a power band of over 3000 to about 7500 my rings always fell off the pistons at any revs above 7500 but at 7500 a stock chev will live all day just my humble opinions
Really when talking coupes and roadsters or even my stripped down 'camino why do you really need more cam than a 30-30?? unless racing it's just overkill, and i'd rather keep it slightly slower with traditional the stuff that worked fine then, just like my non vacumn drum brakes and muncie 4 spd besides, should be fast enough to get in trouble! I can understand some of you guys want more bottom end, but then again i'm still young and drive it like i stole it. The 350 that is in my daily now wont pick up untill 3,500, but i lay into it 'till 5,500 every day and my 302 should be good for regular stupid R's This'll piss people off but... low end is for old people and soccer moms with automatics, top end is for hot rods with sticks! ... I guess i should leave some old people outa this, like my dad who is 61 and building a couple hot rods
Hey now. I am not an old tech basher. Hell, If You want to quit pissin and moanin, bolt a goddamn blower on it. My point was this. If You bolt on aftermarket heads (which ar oh so trad, by the way) Why not use a cam that will utilize them? and since when is making torque a bad thing? are You fucking kidding me? If You can have both, why not? it's not like anybody can see Your cam. and if they can...well, You've got bigger fish to fry.
I know where y'all are going, but really Torque aint bad, it just aint possable to have your cake and eat it too, Things that make High HP usually hurt torque and Versa-visa Really some BAD motors were built with the 30-30 and would still be bad today too, really your only problem is gunna be traction with any semi traditional Tire. YES there are better grinds out there, but look at your application first, A sedan, probably 1600-2200lbs And i know you cant see the cam, but you might as well stroke it out with a 350 or 400 crank then and if you're running fenders put disk brakes and independant suspention on it too... Screw it Run a Hood and an LS motor!! They say the real judge of character is what you do when nobody is watching And on mine i HAD to run aftermarket heads, 'cuz Nobody makes the right compression 301 pistons, and the Government is Fucking us on Octane
*DISCLAIMER* I am not trying to start a pissing match, and I am typing this with a smile on my face. This is good 'ol bench racing at it's best, and I'm not trying to hurt feelings. Okay. Having Your cake and eating it too IS possible. and in a traditional (ish) format. Keeping in mind that we are talking about a small block with aftermarket heads in a Hot Rod. Now that we are all on the same page, consider this. Roller Cams are NOT super high tech new fangled ninja magic. They have been around since at least the early 60's, though in a solid format. A roller cam is just the thing. a fast , aggressive ramp speed, and the ability to manage BIG lift. add to that the stability of a solid lifter, so long as the rest of the valvetrain is up to snuff, and You will make bigger numbers across the board, and not suffer in one department or the other. Joe Sherman makes great power with the comp "thumper" series camshafts. They sound BITCHIN. And You don't have to set aside money every three months for valve cover gaskets. keep in mind a few things before anyone yells at me-Buzzards Coupe. it is effectively the exact same motor as what we are talking about here- 327, aftermarket iron heads, dual quads, yadda,yadda. It weighs closer to 3 grand than You would think. it also did a real good job at breaking the fuck out of some 8 inch rear ends with a muncie 4 speed. and Hurst slicks. I don't know if he wants his cam specs spread across the board...but it isn't a 30-30, it hauls a respectable amount of ass, and it sounds like heaven. What good is cake if You can't eat it? If You have bitchin parts, why neuter them with stuff that won't perform as well for the sake of Noise? That's kinda like meeting the hottest gal in the world only to discover she has a penis.
Best Street Cam - 327 - 350HP Hydraulic, long duration short lift (.447/.447) seems work well with any 9.5 to 11:1 engine. Every cam grinder makes this profile for a reason. Was the number one selling profile in the 80's. Works well with Automatics too, great idle quality.
LAX, Guess i'm just a little too stuck in the stoneage, you are right about the roller cams, but i guess it comes to i belive, do what you want, just dont sell the old stuff short, at worst a cam is always an easy change anyway
does this work? not that good if it dosent. <embed src="http://img531.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=Txxxnomad327yd0" width="424" height="338" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/><br/>[More videos from deucecabriolet] 327 11.5:1 2:02's duntov 30/30 - say why and intake. engine built over 40 yrs ago & hasnt been apart for 40 years! 'yikes!' still runs really good or it did last time i drove it which was YEARS ago. --- M-21 close, with good ol 4:11's. dont know WHY i put pwr brakes on?! i know there is no vacum. i bought parts & had a big credit for some work i did for them & ended up with a chrome 8" dual booster when all i wanted was a chrome mc. SO without thinking i put it on. --- fun to drive & "really comes on about 5k & pulls hard up around 7k & then pull another gear.
Cut 55 - Nice car, Perfect Radiused Wheel Wells were the norm. Nice set up. P-Case, was this car the class winner in the photo?
especially when You can simply yank the radiator off and sit it in the corner. and I am not trying to rip on the 30-30. it's a great cam...I just think there may be better options avalible. Stonre age? Hell, man...I own a shop that the first rule of every day is "nothing newer than 1973" we do everything from restoration (barf) to period style hot rods and customs. I'm stuck in the same stone age...but my personal stone age is about 1967.
How is this cam for a mild .030 over 283 with a stick and is going into a Model A coupe ? Too wimpy ? Is it on a 114 center with a smooth idle or does it have a lope at idle ? I have a chance to buy a TRW replacement cam lifters and springs for cheap but I dont want a wimp nor do I want a race car . 327 365 Hp cam in a 283 cid has anyone used this before ? going with stock compression for todays gas . Yes it is a Ck 151 cam with no spec sheet but it is new in the original box . I need specs on TRW cams where do I find them . I searched on the site but cant find anything .
It will run just fine with a stick. A 283 with small chamber heads (287") 62cc will run OK. Lots of these were on the street. The (151) that was the number for the 350HP hydraulic cam. Measure Lobe (max and then perpendicular) on lobe subtract the difference and then multiply by 1.5 = lift at valve. This may help identify which cam you have. Older speed shops have the original TRW cross refererce for cams as well.
The Jalopy Journal
