I just had a question I have the chance to buy a late forties open drive truck Banjo for $300.00 complete drum to drum spins freely but I have a 280 horsepower v8 and a 4 speed I know theres been other posts on this but I thought I would ask again with a fresh post!!! Am I going to break this rear end quick or will it hold up if I don't beat on it everyday???? Thanks 27
Comments will vary on this topic. It's often discussed. You may want to search this to find additional info.
most of those rearends saw around 100 hp back in the day , your almost tripling that i would say it could be a probblem !
I am running a closed drive banjo with a 250 HP 327. As long as you don't beat on it (in other words dump the clutch at 4000 RPM) I think you'll be fine, assuming its built correctly. It also depends on the weight of the vehicle you are putting it in and the kind of tires. Is it a '27 Ford? I have mine in a '29 roadster. Also, $300 isn't a bad price IMO. That is assuming its in good running order and its an open drive version. Mike
be aware also that no one currently offers new ring and pinion sets for the truck rearend, when it does wear out you will be looking for used parts to repair it I had a good used one behind my 259 Stude motor in a T with narrow tires for a couple years, put it a 303 Olds and promptly broke it the horsepower was a little more with the Olds, but the torque is what killed it
Might wanna check the gearing too. Your 4 speed probably has a 1:1 final drive, and if that rear has 4.11 gears then you wont be cruising at 75 all day. rob
Also keep in mind that the housings are 2 inches wider. Ratio will probably be 354. Been running banjos for years, don't spin the tires or bark the tires you'll be OK.
The 40s Ford open-drive pickups had parallel leaf springs instead of a transverse rear spring. So adding a traditional-looking transverse spring would require some modification to the rear housings. What about putting '35/36 Ford rear axles, housings and radius rods on the Ford pickup open rear ends? Wouldn't this narrow the rear end, in addition to looking better? Has anyone actually done this, or doesn't it work?
That would work but you are still at the mercy of whatever the gears are like. They are pick up only and not repo'ed. The ratios I have seen are usually 4.11. Might work fine with a T-5. You are screwed if the gears are bad. Pick ups did not have an easy life.
I paid $225 here in Minneapolis last fall at a swap meet. Remember that the advantage of these axles is that you don't need the open drive shaft conversion kit costing you another hundred some bucks. I'm connecting to it via ladder bars and transverse leaf spring with some hangers welded off the back. I hope mine will hold up too but I'm running a flathead and T-5 with bias ply's so I think I'll be okay...
I ground off the spring pads. Used pete and jake spring mounts and ladder bars. I had the housings, axles and carrier from a 40, but I don't like to take them apart. I'll live with the extra 2 inches.
All the above is good info. In addition, if you want to use the '35-36 housings, you will have to use the '35-36 differential bearings. The 37-48 differential bearings are the same. By the way, those that need an open drive kit for torque tube centers, we have new lower prices on ours. Check our website. Be aware of loose fitting imitations! www.hotrodworks.com
Just my two cents worth. I was running one in my 27 with narrower housings ect. The disadvantage is in the tapered pinion and yoke. If you do have problems (Like on the road) you need to find another pick up banjo to repair or replace it. With the conversion kit ANY closed drive banjo you find will get you going.
Yeah, I guess that if the ring, pinion or yoke gets screwed up really bad, you're kind of SOL unless you have vintage spares, huh? Replacement yokes are not available for certain??? But, all the bearings and races are still available for the 40s Ford pickup open rear ends, I think. And what about driveshafts? If you don't have a 40s pickup driveshaft, what would work to hook something else up to the yoke? Are universal joints available new that would mate the 40s yoke to a later driveshaft? All this is all very good info to have.
I'm using a ring & pinion from a '37 truck axle in a Rodsville quickchange and it's 4.44:1. Someone on here told me it was a UK spec. I don't see too much problem as the final drive on my T5 is 0.76:1 and I can get the final gearing right with the correct spur gears. I'm also using 16" crossplies which will (hopefully) break out before the diff does!