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My new F-100... the Digger gets a hauler...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by SamIyam, Aug 16, 2004.

  1. The Bomb Factory Hauler... BFH for short.

    I've been eyeing '57 F-100's lately... and saw this one on e-bay.

    It had an opening bid of $690... and I was the only guy to bid on it.

    So last Tuesday ChopperBob and I loaded up and left here at 4:00am... got up to Salem at around 3:30pm, put it on the trailer and then headed back home... I drove 1200 miles in 23 1/2 hours! The next day I was shot...

    So after eyeing the '65 Chevy frame (that has mid 70's Chevy front suspension) in my garage, I measured and discovered that it was the EXACT same width and heigth just under the cab on both trucks... and it'll give me a modest 5" drop. So plans are to find a 60's Chevy pu front frame and a 70's suspension with all the amenities.

    The engine will be whatever I come across, Ford or GM, that is cheap and makes plenty of power... I'll put AC in it... do all the body work and paint myself... and hopefully end up with a cute little hauler.

    As far as what it will look like... I want it white (like the old Ford ivory white) with red interior. Wheels and tires will be chrome reversed wheels with blackwall tires.

    Other than that... it'll look stock.

    Now all I have to do is get the '65 in my garage done... AND widen the rear and narrow the tires on my Model A before I can get started on this.

    But that doesn't prevent me from scrounging parts!

    Sam.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Ah yea... as far as condition goes... the bed is the most perfect 2nd series short bed you will ever find... weld up a few holes and straigten a few woops in the floor and call it DONE... the cab has rust in the steps and rust in the pillar supports... but otherwise straight. The doors are done, no rust. The fenders are rusty, already found a perfect replacement at PNP for the right side... and the hood is decent and just needs a couple dents whacked out... overall, it's a damn nice truck considering its age and what I paid for it.

    Stay tuned...
    Sam.
     
  3. plan9
    Joined: Jun 3, 2003
    Posts: 4,134

    plan9
    Member

    right on Sam... for the price you paid, that thing will be perfect for the BFD... low budget theme all the way.
     
  4. HotRod60F100
    Joined: Jul 13, 2004
    Posts: 1,196

    HotRod60F100
    Member

    Damn this is driving me crazy,i gotsta drum up the fundage to go up to Ala.and bring down my 60 F100 everyones having fun but me [​IMG] oh and great score on that 57 i'm glad to see more 57-60 F series Fords are getting more exposure seem the 57-60's are the most forgotten Fords trucks
     
  5. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,689

    Boones
    Member
    from Kent, Wa

    cool ride, you putting a wooden push bumper on it?

    As for front susp, since you are considering Chevy, consider a 88 - 98 frame set up... I believe same width and must easier to find parts for lowering
     
  6. Ayers Garage
    Joined: Nov 28, 2002
    Posts: 1,388

    Ayers Garage
    Member

    Sam, you keep saying 70's front suspension. Keep in mind, they are the same all the way up through 87 on the trucks and even through 91 on the Suburbans.

    I do a lot of "closet" work on 67-72 trucks, and I always aim for the newest front suspension I can turn up. Plenty of nice Suburbans up through 91 get parted and they usually have fewer miles and tighter parts.
     
  7. 46stude
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,718

    46stude
    Member

    Nice truck Sam, but please don't drop a Chevy motor in it! If I see another SBC in a cl***ic Ford, I'm gonna puke! [​IMG]
     
  8. lownrusty
    Joined: Aug 15, 2003
    Posts: 639

    lownrusty
    Member

    Better get your raffle ticket for the motor and trans,keep it all ford!
     
  9. Thanks for the tip Hillbilly!

    Yea, I know... SBC, blah... I feel the same way about certain colors of pimer and painted wheels! [​IMG]

    I'm actually just gonna look for some kind of Big Block that is CHEAP... pull it at the yard and drop it into the thing.

    I have a question... will the 70-80's Chevy p-u A arms bolt up to the 60's crossmember? Or do you have to swap the crossmember too like I did on the '65 in my garage??

    As far as lowering... I'm going to go a little against the grain here... I really don't want this truck slammed. Just swapping the Chevy p-u frame and suspension is going to drop it 5" from where it is at right now... that'll put the fender well about 1" above the tire... about right.

    Thanks!

    Sam.
     
  10. zonkola
    Joined: Nov 29, 2002
    Posts: 567

    zonkola
    Member
    from NorCal

    An old 390 would be perfect for that truck--easy to make gobs of torque with one of those critters...
     
  11. plan9
    Joined: Jun 3, 2003
    Posts: 4,134

    plan9
    Member

    390... or a 500ci cadillac motor [​IMG]

     
  12. [ QUOTE ]
    390... or a 500ci cadillac motor [​IMG]



    [/ QUOTE ]

    I'd go Caddy, I'd go Olds... Buick, Ford... Chevy... even a Mopar. (I have a 392, but I don't think I could do it "on the cheap")

    No Pontiacs though... I don't care for the way they sound.
    Sam.
     
  13. Ayers Garage
    Joined: Nov 28, 2002
    Posts: 1,388

    Ayers Garage
    Member

    Sam, the later arms will bolt onto the earlier crossmember with no mods at all. The later arms will have later balljoints which are needed for the disc brake spindles.

    The upper arms are held onto the crossmember with 2 nuts per side and the lower arms are held on by two little u-bolts per side.
     
  14. av8
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 1,716

    av8
    Member

    Looks good, Sam. Not sure if I understand what you're thinking about doing, however. Are you talking about front-halving the back of the Ford frame with a GM front? Can't imagine why; just use the entire GM ch***is. They are all essentially the same width through the '60s and some up into the '70s. Way back in Dubya-Dubya Aye-Aye the gummint mandated standardized frame dimensions for American truck manufacturers so needs for a particular application (weapons carrier, communitcations body, ambulance, etc.) could be filled by any or all manufactures. Long after the mandate was rescinded truck manufacturers continued to use the old standards.



     
  15. av8
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 1,716

    av8
    Member

    In the late '80s and on into the '90s racers were pulling the gas-guzzling 454s out of their late-model GMC/Chevy crew-cab-dually tugs and replacing them with 500 inch Cadillacs for a big jump in fuel economy thanks to the Cadillac's greater torque delivered at lower engine speeds.

    The Ford truck 460 is stingier than the GM 454, but not nearly so much as is the Cadillac 500 -- which is also lighter than the others.
     
  16. Broman
    Joined: Jan 31, 2002
    Posts: 1,487

    Broman
    Member
    from an Island

    I'd tell you that you **** and that you always find the cool stuff, but then I wasn't on ebay looking for a 57 Ford PU - not exactly the popular search. It's only when you see someone elses' and hear the deal that they made when they got it that you actually concider looking for one.

    Good find anyway. It reminds me of a comercial back in the 80's where the tag-line was "Don't you go buyin' no UGLY truck!!"

    I remember it cause my dad bought an UGLY truck (International Harvester) and my mom gave him a rash of **** over it. It earned the nick name "ugly truck" shortly thereafter.

    Looks like you just bought an ugly truck too.
     
  17. When I first measured the '65 frame in my garage (and got all teary eyed-excited) That was my intention... to do a frame swap.

    But those hopes were soon squished when I realized that the kick up in the rear was almost three times what it was for the stock Ford frame. The Ford frame kicks up 2.5" in the rear, just after the cab... and the Chevy frame kicks up 6 1/2"... I then went and measured a '79 around the block from me... and it kicks up dang near 10" from the flat section just under the cab.
    So I'm thinking a simple splice in the middle (I'll make it look faktry) will be a quick and easy way to do it... and it will and up looking the cleanest.

    Then I don't have to fabricate bed risers, rear bumper mount, suspension mounts etc.

    I'm also pretty happy with the rear suspension on this truck... it seems supple, yet when it hits the over-ride wprings it'll be able to handle the load. To lower it, I'll just move the front spring mount upward 5"... that'll give me about 2.5" of drop...

    Sam.
     
  18. [ QUOTE ]
    I'd tell you that you **** and that you always find the cool stuff, but then I wasn't on ebay looking for a 57 Ford PU - not exactly the popular search. It's only when you see someone elses' and hear the deal that they made when they got it that you actually concider looking for one.

    Good find anyway. It reminds me of a comercial back in the 80's where the tag-line was "Don't you go buyin' no UGLY truck!!"

    I remember it cause my dad bought an UGLY truck (International Harvester) and my mom gave him a rash of **** over it. It earned the nick name "ugly truck" shortly thereafter.

    Looks like you just bought an ugly truck too.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Beauty is in the eye of the behinder!

    I actually think that the '57 is a better looking truck than the first series F-100's... to me, those are too nose heavy and dopey looking... This truck looks like it should be hauling an old digger... and maybe it's not as good looking as the Tri-Five Chevy trucks (I like them better), but you aren't going to find one of those with original faded paint for $690...

    Broman, you're gonna laugh when I tell you this story... Bob and I were crossing over into California when I asked Bob "what do you think they'll ask us?" Bob says: "Well, they'll ask us if we have any fruits or vegetables..."
    and I said: "No veggies... but we got this big ****ing lemon on the trailer!" [​IMG]

    Sam.
     
  19. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,361

    AHotRod
    Member

    Oh, I like it [​IMG]
     
  20. FONZI
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,536

    FONZI
    Member

    Perfect truck for the digger Sam!

    FONZI
     
  21. dixiedog
    Joined: Mar 20, 2002
    Posts: 1,204

    dixiedog
    Member

    Sam - just a simple question, 'cause I must be missing something. Wouldn't it be easier and probably less costly to do a Mustang II in the orig frame?
     
  22. [ QUOTE ]
    Sam - just a simple question, 'cause I must be missing something. Wouldn't it be easier and probably less costly to do a Mustang II in the orig frame?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I can do the truck swap for around $150-$200... and get good used parts with it... A Mustang II set up is a little too light weight for me... I'm going to use this pickup and a pickup... not really a profilin' truck. I don't know what width you can make a MII system, but it is also very important to me to have the track width as close to original as possible... and initial measurments show that the Chevy p-u and the F-100 are only about 3/4" different...

    Just one easy splice, some careful measuring and graft on the front frame horns to hold the core support and the stock front bumper and I'm done.
    If I elect to go with a BBC... the motor mounts will be there... the trans mount will be there... and it'll just be a matter of hooking up the tilt steering column...

    I appreciate the opinions though... there are things that you will miss until you dig into it.
    Sam.
     
  23. carkiller
    Joined: Jun 12, 2002
    Posts: 849

    carkiller
    Member

    Sam, 72-79 torino elite ltd 11 ranchero fronts work well under these 57-60 f 100s. did two of em back in the 80s. Cal
     
  24. [ QUOTE ]
    Sam, 72-79 torino elite ltd 11 ranchero fronts work well under these 57-60 f 100s. did two of em back in the 80s. Cal

    [/ QUOTE ]
    How and where do they mate up?, How wide is the track and how low will it sit when done?

    Sam.
     
  25. whodaky
    Joined: Dec 6, 2003
    Posts: 4,626

    whodaky
    Member
    from Aust

    Just a small note on rear leaf spring mounts. I believe the front mount on the spring should always be lower than the rear mount. If it ends up aove the rear mount then you may have handling problems. I don't know the full facts on this just the basics. So it is something worth considering if you are going to raise the front mount to lower your pickup. You don't want a truck that may handle unpredictably, especially as you will be towing with it. Geoff aka Whodaky
     
  26. [ QUOTE ]
    Just a small note on rear leaf spring mounts. I believe the front mount on the spring should always be lower than the rear mount. If it ends up aove the rear mount then you may have handling problems. I don't know the full facts on this just the basics. So it is something worth considering if you are going to raise the front mount to lower your pickup. You don't want a truck that may handle unpredictably, especially as you will be towing with it. Geoff aka Whodaky

    [/ QUOTE ]

    No ****?
    I didn't know that... I guess I could flip in on top of the springs...
    anyone else have info on this?
    Thanks for the tip... hopefully someone will tell us why this is so...
    Sam.
     
  27. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,985

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    Yea Sam, there is something about keeping the relationship the same. I was looking a raising both front and rear on my '48 F1 and notching the frame to lower to it. I haven't decided exactly what I'm going to do, just considering options. Hopefully someone will come on and explain the mount situation.

    Frank
     
  28. brewsir
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 3,278

    brewsir
    Member

    damn Sam...I just listed a 55 f100 panel on ebay....you could haul the digger and crash in the back....think **** carpet baby!
     
  29. Sam-Id use the chevy frame complete and a 403 Olds or 455 Olds.....Caddy 500 is tourquey but will burn MORE gas by far anfd arent nearly as dependable or easily replaced if needed as availability is skinny [a bit] nowadays.
     
  30. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 6,444

    atch
    Member

    sam,

    i was discussing this with enjenjo this spring and he told me he'd done many like it, i.e., putting the axle over the springs (like a car is done), and that it works well.

    so that's my plan for the future for clarence. i'm trying to just get the springs replaced so i can get to mokan right now, but maybe this winter i can swap places with the springs and axle. C'ing the frame at the same time, of course.
     

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