I'm doing a satin single stage urethane paint job.Nothing fancy. The car appears to have an enamel paint job ,probably 5 years old.The paint is quite sound so I don't want to strip the whole car.There is a little bare metal here and there from my sanding .I'm ***uming I should use a primer sealer under the urethane to play it safe? Or do I need a self etching primer for the few bare metal spots? Or do you think a cheaper primer is ok? This car won't see winter weather. This is a 64 El Camino,a quart of primer-sealer for one coat? Thanks
find out what you are spraying over first,then buy a compatible sealer,etch prime the bare spots,seal entire car,i don't think a quart will sufficiently do the whole camino.then do some test spots to see if the enamel on the car will take the urethane top coat. sometimes it will krinkle up.
Most sealers aren't going to be made for bare metal. It really depends on how big the spots are and how close together. Anything the size of a half dollar and smaller properly feathered should be OK. If its more than that I'd look into at least spot priming with a DTM primer and then using a urethane sealer.
The bare spots are on the edges of the body where the DA cuts through easily ,not much.I"m trying to keep the cost down and buy one type of primer-sealer.But I don't want to have a paint failure so I'll spend a few exta bucks on primer if I have to.
Another option might be to paint it with a coat of epoxy primer mixed as a sealer. Epoxy sticks well to bare metal and it can be used a sealer if you reduce it slightly. I have no idea if it seals well enough to go over enamel though.
I use SEM etch prime,I have never used sealer. just get it wiped down and ready to spray , hit it with the etch prime on the bare spots wait an hour tack it down and pull the trigger.
There's yer answer. Only caveat is the possibilty of lifting around those bare metal spots. Also, if that enamel was checked/crowfooted/cracked, sanding/sealing/painting is just a temporary improvement.
I do have some epoxy primer ,be about 1/2 gallon once it's mixed together.I used it on my 50 Chevy PU as a finish coat.I sanded the 50 Chevy,it had several layers of paint and I went down to metal in many areas .The epoxy did not cause any lifting or wrinkles around the bare spots. The existing paint on the El Camino does look sound,it sands easily,doesn't clog the DA disc,kinda like lacquer but I doubt it is..
I would agree. make sure your bare metal spots are feathered, and then just mix up your epoxy or 2k primer, and add 10% reducer. spray on 3 coats or so if you have enough. you can then sand that with 400 grit by hand, and apply your satin black.
Holy ****,went to the local auto parts store that has a good paint supply,even with a discount,a gallon of DTM or 2K primer and catalyst is nearly 300 bucks!!! Been a few years since bought paint.Oh well,pay now if I want a decent job or pay more later if the paint job fails.
Kirker epoxy primer works pretty well. I had been used to PPG and DuPont epoxy primers, but I was short on dough and tried out the Kirker and had no problems at all with it. I got a gallon kit of it from some mail-order place. Read the data sheets before you use it. If the weather is cold, you might want to wait a little longer before top coating it to make sure all of the solvent in it is gone.
The epoxy primer I have is Nason brand that's about 1/2 the price of known brand names.It lays on good and has held up on my old truck. I sprayed a some lacquer primer on the exposed metal where the paint is feathered back on the El Camino.No lifting or wrinkling, so I'm gonna mix up a small batch of the epoxy primer and do a test area. if it's ok,the half gallon I have will prime the whole vehicle if I'm careful.The Nason epoxy says it's non sandable so I better in a good painting mood
Plywude,I checked out that paint website,looks good to me,I ordered a gallon of 2k primer and activator for 85 bucks to my door.They claim to stand behind what they sell and thier product is supposedly good with any type and brand of finish paint. I got to thinking the partial containers of epoxy primer I have is three years old.It looks ok in the can ,but who know what may have evaporated over the years. Ain't worth 85 bucks to use it and have the finish paint start flaking off in a few months. Thank you all for the help!
I'd s****e that lacquer primer off before you go any furthur. Thats an almost guaranteed checkerboard once it sees some heat and cold because of the expansion rates.
Old epoxy primer is sometimes okay except for the lumps that it gets in it. If you try to use it, stir it up with a stick for a real long time to get the clumpy stuff up off the bottom of the can, and then pour it through a strainer. I used some that was five years old once, and it worked fine, but I stirred it well and strained it.
True. If you don't have a mixing machine, take the time to run to Home Depot and have them shake it for you. Save you time and headache not to mention an arm ache from stirring. Its usually only the activator that get super lumpy. I shake it for a while and touch the bottom of the can with the stick, when it feels like can and not the ocean foor, its good.
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