now I did a search on this, and either im a retard when it comes to the search function or no ones asked the question. My girlfriend bought my some stuff for christmas because id been saying that i wanted to try it out and see if i could possibly be any good at it. Ive been reading a lot about techniques and brushes and all that jazz, but i mean none of that really matters with out practice and presistance. my question is about the paints. 1 shot specifically. Ive been on eastwood co. site looking at all their colors and i noticed that they had some pearls. They didnt really appeal to me. so my newbie question is, can i mix my own pearls into my one shot? or even mini flake. Or does that screw up the drag of the brush and how it holds its paint? any help is appreciated. also if anyone knows any good sites to go on, or specific threads i should read that would be great.
Use soild's 1st. Cheaper, for one. The pearl's and 'flake (heavier) need to be 'suspended' like in clear's. Not that a soild will not take to mixing. Lot's of HAMB folk lay line's. Not those vortex/energy type. Safarinut has some tech post ya gotta follow. Rod Powell has been getting some HAMB time the last few day's.........mabe the Master has a few tip's for y'all.-Nick
The flake will probably give you problems. I would imagine it would pull chunky and not allow a smooth stripe. The pearls I am not sure about. Give it a try anl see how it acts. Good luck and remember keep your brushes wet! (practice practice practice) Tim
thanks a lot for the information. ive read abotu some guys using mineral spirits. is their an advantage in comparison to reducer at all?
I have mixed DuPont Pearl powders into 1-Shot letting enamels, 1-Shot Pearl, 1-Shot Tinting Clear. and 1-Shot UV Clear. The 1-Shot Pearls are an Acrylic base, the Lettering Enamels are an Alkyd base. Different chemistry, 1-Shot did this for a reason. The ***anium Dioxide used in many Pearl powders interferes with the linking of the resin molecules, in the Alkyd enamels and clears. In plain English, mixing Pearl powders in Alkyd enamel, the paint takes longer before it feels "dry", but it will still develop runs several days later. I've added extra pearl to the Yellow 1-Shot Pearl, and the drying time slowed way down. Not sure why. Tinting Clear, and Sign Restoring Clear, react the same way as Lettering Enamels because the resins are the same. I have no problem with pearls and their Speed Dry UV Acrylic Clear. But the solvent resistance of the clear is poor, since it was designed to be used over inkjet print. The solvent is very aggressive. I used it as an Intercoat Clear with pearls, if I was top coating with something better. A lot of h***le. --- To make a long story short, start with the basics. Plenty of time to get fancy later.
I use 1-Shot High Temperature Reducer, for striping. Their Low Temperature reducer is good for airbrushing and faux Marblizing. Mineral Spirits is too oily for my liking.
thanks, only reason i asked about the pearls, is because when i go to do my truck, probably not for a few months. id like to do it in a white pearl. since the roof is a white pearl, i just thought it would look nice. Just wanted to know if it was possible.
I have always used mineral spirits mainly cause its cheap but it really works great. Also http://www.****blick.com is a good place for 1 shot and other materials. lso remeber to keep the brushes oild when there not in use. And the best bit of advice is don,t give up because we all ****ed at first practice is the best teacher. Also try to watch other stripers to learn different way to roll and turn a brush because everyone is a little diferent. Good luck man.
yeah im not very fond of that place. When i was about 16-17 id go in there to buy my bondo, and other supplies they where always real jerks to me, maybe they didnt take me seriously i dont know. Im 20 now and i shop down on the southside at rays auto body supplies. A bunch of really great people, with good at***udes who are really willing to help you out and talk you through how to do something or show you the newest and coolest thing. I like those guys a lot. Plus their prices are usually about 20% less than finishmaster. for regular paint supplies, adams autobody has the best prices. but id rather spend a little extra at rays for the autmosphere and to support a good local business. rays carries a full range of flakes and pearls by various manfactures along with a full range of 1 shot. and just about every other thing you could imagine for painting they ahve in stock. check them out, they are on 6th a few blocks south of 36th. or just google it.
I've done pearls, never had a problem. I did a couple small things with flake, and what I did was I got me an old food processor from the thrift store for 2 bucks, sharpened the blade so it was razor sharp, and popped the flake in there to chop it up even finer. I couldn't find fine flake at the time, but I know they do sell it. Anyway, it did work somewhat, but it was very tough to use. I think next time I'll try either buying the expensive fine flake, or maybe using aluminum grindings.
alright, well it will be a while off before i can add any pearls to my paint. its pretty tough. I didnt think striping would be easy, but i thought it would come a little easier to me because ive got a steady had from my day job (tig welding ***anium hot water heaters) My girlfriend bought me that kafka striping kit they sell on eastwood for christmas. Kind of a rip off for the price and kind of cool at the same time, i really havent made up my mind on it. The guy (no offense to him because hes incredibly talented) just reminds me of my grandfather (whom i dont really adore). And im not really all that into his striping style. anyways. Now i have new questions for you striping guys. palleting. is driving me ****ing crazy, i cant figure out if im doing it right or not, in kafkas video he just rubs the brush in the paint real messy like, and says its good. i get it to where i dont feel any drag and the brush is loaded, but then when i lay down some stripes they arent "full" like they have very small drag lines in them where no paint lays down. my next question is reducing. like regular painting do i just add a little reducer to the paint, or do i do it when im palleting. kafka doesnt really do it at all or so it seams in his video. last what do i oil my brush with? besides brush oil because i cant get down to the pain shop untill friday, i need something to put on it because i dont want it to get messed up.
Brandon, Those are very good questions. I would love to see the answers myself.I started trying to stripe last winter and layed the brush down for a while. Picked it up again this week and found that I have not lost my touch as my lines still look like "Ray Charles" taught me to stripe!!! LOL
Only use brush oil. When I started playing around with it some guy said "use motor oil...it's way cheaper"... After ruining 2 brushes I was informed that was a mistake. I like to keep a small cup of reducer next to my paint so I can add it while palletting. Then I get the consistancy just where I want it. That's just what works for me though...I'm no Dutch.
As for palleting, it's a matter of feel. lay a few lines on your pallet before you lay them on your final piece. The brush should flow without puddling. If it drags a bit, use a drop or two of reducer (I use mineral spirits) and pull the brush through it several times back and forth. Don't be afraid to bend the brush at the big end and give it a gentle pressure, rolling it back and forth a bit to load up the brush. Just mess with it for a while and you'll know what works best for you. As for oiling the brush, I have great luck with mineral oil that you can get at any Walgreen's or CVS pharmacy. They sell it where they have ex-lax and all that. My granny used it for constipation. LOL. It works well and is easy to clean out with the mineral spirits. I personally wouldn't try flake unless it's micro-fine. Just a clump of dust or paper towel lint in a line will screw it up big time. I can only imagine what a bunch of flake would do to a smooth line. Hope that helped.
i think you my find answers to your questions here: http://www.kustomkulturelounge.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=4 other good resources: http://www.pinheadlounge.com/ http://www.rockyburris.com/default.aspx
thanks for all the info guys. I got some neatsfoot oil today. thats what they sold me at the paint shop, and i got a few other colors to play with for fun. im going to check out those sites right now and see ive i can gain anything from them. thanks alot guys!
Simple tip is that you don't thin paint in the can. Pour some in a small container, (baby food jar, yogurt cup,) and thin it there so you don't overthin a full can of paint. If you overthin, it is only what you have put in the small container.
mineral spirits to thin, or one shot reducer. If its getting cleared over i'll add hardener (oneshot or valspar) neatsfoot oil to clean my brushes. picked up a nice art box from the hobby store and added some elastic to hold my brushes in place, they stay shaped well.
i need to get a box, today i just bought some more paints. got an emerald green, a white, and a gold, they are the small cans but only likr 6 bucks a peice. she bought me some kafka brushes. they come with this nifty little plastic straw that helps the brush keeps its shape, i guess.
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