ok, here we go. I am going to build a sbc 302. I know that I need a small journal 327 crank in a 283 block. what I am not sure of is what rods do i need, pistons, prefered heads, prefered intake and carb set up. this will go into a 40 binder on an s-10 chassis rod. Intended use for this, run the shit out of it, and piss off the neighbor hood. so tell me what parts that I need to look for. thanks in advance ,Goat
Actually, that's backwards...if you want to duplicate the factory 302 combination, you want to use a small journal 327 block (or, a large journal 4.00" bore block with spacers, like a 350 two-piece main block), and a 283's 3.00" stroke crank. (What you would be getting with your choice of parts is a factory 307...) Alternatively, you take a 283 block & bore it .125, if it checks OK to do that, and you get what most people called a 301, back in the day. You use the common 5.7" Chevy rod, either small journal or large journal as you need...if using a 283 crank, you use a small journal. The only lg. journal 3.00" stroke cranks are aftermarket...$$$$. So far as heads, pistons, intake, etc., we need to know more about your intended use. Sounds like you want it to be streetable. Pump gas? Do you plan to race it at all? How hung up are you on authenticity, in terms of parts? For example, are aftermarket heads OK? Finally, what's the budget?
You have it ass backwards...you'll need a 283 crank and a good standard bore 327 block or better yet, a 62 to 67 283 block [chevy used the same block for 283s and 327s AFTER '62....THICK WALLS IN THE 283 BLOCKS] that can be bored to 4". About any old 327 block will need an overbore and I don't think you want to attempt to find 302 Plus 0.030 pistons...see, the trick is finding the 302 [or .125" over] 283 pistons. They're around but hard to find...look for TRW number 3927172 on the inside of the pistons and I believe it's stamped 2210 on the piston tops... I found a used set of TRWs at a local swap meet for a decent price but they're tough to find.
eh, a 283 crank in a 327 block works better. or a later 265 in a later 350 will net the same displacement, and be ready for a roller cam. Use GM not quite 6" rods and mill the stock 350 pistons ever so slightly, you get a cheap 6" rod 302, you can use vintage heads if you need to be old skool kool, but with an s10 chassis, you may as well use better new heads. you're lookin for 4.00 bore x 3.00 stroke http://www.mortec.com/borstrok.htm
see what happens when I listen to some body. ass backwards that could hurt. ok, good thing I didnt buy the 327 crank I was looking at. 327 block, 283 crank, live and learn. pump gas-yes street use-yes drag race-probably not vintage heads- have a set of 202 and 194, nothing set in stone budget- low to almost non existing, winter keep the info comeing, I have learned more here in 10 minutes than I did talking to the guy at the machine shop. hence the guy that told me the wrong combo
I agree with what Rocky has said, with the note that, while 302 pistons used to be difficult to find, there are several companies that offer off-the-shelf 302 pistons in various sizes now. All these prices may seem high when you compare them to a 350 piston, but the 302 is a limited market. The pistons are going to be your limiting cost factor here, and it would be easier/cheaper to build a 327 or even more so a 350. So, a 302 will require certain sacrifices. Used pistons are a crapshoot. You may get lucky, or, you may find that three skirts are cracked out of eight. TRW still offers the L2210AF new. However, it's about $440 per set. It's an old design, and by modern standards it is very heavy...632 grams (I believe this is without the pin). TRW also makes a (sort of) universal piston for use in the 302, 327, & 350, the LW2503F. You mill the dome as needed to work with your rod length & compression height. In uncut form, it's 560 grams, and it would be lighter after the machine work. It's also easier to get a streetable static compression ratio with these than with the 2210s. They are about $500 per set. (Given that most people with 302s seem to feel the need to spin them to the moon, and that most of them are using factory rods, I'm of the opinion that a lighter piston = less strain on the wallet when they DON'T blow up.) For not too much more you can get pistons from Keith Black/United Machine, Wiseco & SRP, or go up to a Diamond or JE. Considering your budget limitations, I would probably look at either the 2503 TRWs, or, the KB 802030, which is a bit cheaper. BTW, I said that the only 3.00" stroke large journal cranks are aftermarket...that's not precisely true, the '69 302 had a large journal crank....very hard to find now, also very $$, but it does exist. Which head castings do you have?
If you want to really get the 302 "look" there is an Edelbrock "Smokey Ram" intake on the Phoenix craigslist.
For what its worth, the overbored 283 "back in the day" was .120" not .125" as many suppose. This makes a 301 cube engine. TRW had these pistons available back then but not any more. You will have to spend some money to get what you want. Competition Products lists a 6" small journal rod (brand new with ARP bolts) for $199.95. Check with any machine shop to see what it would cost to recondition a set of rods complete with new ARPs and pin bushings. For a few $ more, you could be running new rods. Here is where you make up the difference. You can run the common rebuilder 350, 4"dia. cast piston on this rod. The added bonus is the piston deck will run closer to the top of the block which gives better combustion chamber turbulence. Important to check what is called compression height - not all piston companies measure the same. The actual pin-to-piston top should not exceed 1.520". Then run the 64cc heads. David Vizard would tell you to stay conservative on valve diameters on a street engine - 1.94" intake but go to 1.6"exhaust - Chevys can use a little more exhaust flow on the stock head.
I hope you get it balanced and use good rods, pistons,bolts & such. There is nothing like spinning a short throw small block to 7000+ rpm (with a 4 speed I hope!).A lot of my misspent youth was behind a similar combo,the sound is forever imbedded in my mind! Might not be the fastest thing on earth, but you feel like a god layin' into a screamer like that! I'm still holding onto a '64 327 and a '67 283 for one day.. I think most or all 283's had forged cranks. Twist that baby to the moon!!!
Good information in the above posts. However if your new at this and on a budget why not put together a fresh 350 with a kit from someone like Northern Supply and tell everyone it's a 302. No harm no foul and you'll have a ball without mortgaging the farm. I can tell you, being 64 years old and doing this for 50 years, there's more BIG cube engines running around under the guise of little bitty ones than you can shake a stick at. Case in point, I'll bet there are litterly hundreds of 383's out there that the owners will swear are only 283/327/350's. Ak Miller used to say, "old age and treachery will overcome youth and enthusiasm every time". Frank
does anyone know the hp/torque numbers for the 302 under 5500rpm? i bought the book "Musclecar & HI-PO Engines Chevy 302&327 by Hot Rod Magazine" and it doesn't tell you that, just that it tops at around 450hp.
You can ... but it runs like a pig. For the typical HOT ROD 301/302 SBC ... they have little to none low end torque because of the bumpy camshaft and the big valve heads and large carb.
finally scored a small roller for my 301.... a little over kill but..... ought to sound half way decent with a 550 roller , small bowtie heads and little domes.... not sure if i want to try it in my a or in my chevelle....... brandon
after reading these post, I'm starting to think I should just rebuid one or the other. a 327 or the 283. and leave well enogh alone. I allso have a 60 over 283 short block. one spun rod bearing. 302, to much to think about. to many things to f--k up. I want some thing thats a strong runner, but half way reliable. a mildly built 283 would probably do every thing I want to do. thanks guys, for the info. you have been a big help GOAT
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