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Exposed steel floors - how to protect?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scootermcrad, Jan 20, 2009.

  1. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    Let's try this again. Apparently it wasn't as stupid of a question as someone led me to believe...

    For those of you who have exposed steel floors in your hot rods (or customs) and don't desire to have rusty or carpeted floors, how do you protect them and keep them nice. I really wanted to paint my floors and I really don't want to cover them up with floormats, carpet or wood, but I'm afraid they're just going to look like **** after awhile. What do you guys do to keep them looking nice? TONS of clear coat or some kind of sealer???

    I had thought about maybe doing an aluminum panel, but also thought that might be a bit too much for an interior that's pretty stripped down.

    Would like to see what you have done.

    Thanks!

    P.S. Thanks Ryan for taking care of people with nothing better to do...
     
  2. gotham
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 40

    gotham
    Member

    how about something like bedliner? or do you want the look of bare steel?
     
  3. raaf
    Joined: Aug 27, 2002
    Posts: 781

    raaf
    Member

    i like the idea of a painted floor with aluminum kick panels in highest traffic areas. paint stays nice where it needs to and limited corrosion on the aluminum.
     
  4. Dreddybear
    Joined: Mar 31, 2007
    Posts: 6,161

    Dreddybear
    Member

    This is a good idea. Paint the interior, masking off where the feet will go and use the bedliner there...
     
  5. hotcargo
    Joined: Nov 9, 2005
    Posts: 307

    hotcargo
    Member

    Hey Scooter
    In my pick up ....I'm using a painted and detailed floor with br*** featured leather clip down panels in the scuff areas
     
  6. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,185

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    I was thinking of the bedliner idea as well. Make sure it's the good 2-part epoxy stuff for best wear. And I'd still do a nice stainless/aluminum heel pad.
     
  7. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,626

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    If you look at what Troy Trepanier uses in some of his car that may be an option. I remember reading one of those Build books on his Sick fish Cuda and they swore by this stuff. I think it was called something like Gorilla Skin. It may be something that has to be baked on but he coats the inside and underneath of his cars with it. It looks like a black trim pain that it supposed to be indestructible.
     
  8. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,626

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    I am to the inside of my coupe with wood floors because I think the way that wood wears is cool and distinguishing. That may be an option also.
     
  9. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    This is sort of what I'm leaning towards right here.

    Anyone have pictures of finished floors that are painted with this type of treatment?

    Here's a good example from a familiar car! I like how this floor is painted and nothing else. I wonder how it will stand up...

    [​IMG]

    Not sure if this picture is a before or an after the above shot...

    [​IMG]

    Based on the fact that the door latches are not painted either, I'll guess this is a before paint picture.
     
  10. 36OldsEight
    Joined: May 8, 2008
    Posts: 10

    36OldsEight
    Member

    I sprayed my floor panels with bedliner 2 years ago - so far so good, no rear marks or marring that I have noticed, but I haven't been up close and personal with the floor either.
     
  11. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,626

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    In that pic Scooter, I think the top one is by far a better way to go. The bottom pic is way to busy at least for my taste. The top one looks utilitarian almost. What about the paint that is used on industrial machines such as John Deer or Caterpillar. Hell, I wouldn't be surprised if the military has something that they use that holds up better then typical paint.
     
  12. Glen
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 1,789

    Glen
    Member

    I rolled on DP epoxy primer and I plan to add a rubber mat where your feet rub and fasten it all the way around with stainless fasteners to the floor. I have some samples of thin ribbed rubber mat.
     
  13. CraigR
    Joined: Jun 20, 2008
    Posts: 375

    CraigR
    Member
    from California

    Dig the idea,
    How about making sure the 'high traffic' areas are easily removable for retouching later, if whatever you use doesn't hold up as well as hoped - hope for the best plan for the worst?!
    CraigR
     
  14. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    Now that's some good thinking right there Craig! Should have asked you at breakfast! :rolleyes: HA! My floor will have several removable panels anyway. Maybe this is the way to go right here.
     
  15. 35WINDOW
    Joined: Jul 7, 2005
    Posts: 454

    35WINDOW
    Member

    I would Epxoy Prime it first, then, if you want Lizard Skin or Bed Liner, do that-the Epoxy will seal it and not allow rusting-I Epoxied the inside/underside of my Car, then I Seam Sealed it inside and out, then used a Truck Bed Liner on the bottom, and it looks great-I'm going to use Lizard Skin inside-
     

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  16. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,077

    chaddilac
    Member

    No shoes, thick socks!!!!

    Seriously though... how bout some brushed aluminum panels similar to the carb coating riveted to the steel floor, then if they get gimped, plop a new panel in!
     
  17. 40StudeDude
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 9,562

    40StudeDude
    Member

    PPG has a product called C-RECT...it's an industrial coating, used for bridges, metal spans, etc. that need protecting from all kinds of weather...it's tuff stuff...UV resisitant and waterproof...and it can be tinted to any color you choose... best of all, it's cheap...about $65.00 a gallon...you mite want to look into the stuff...

    R-
     
  18. 54BOMB
    Joined: Oct 23, 2004
    Posts: 2,115

    54BOMB
    Member

    I think 40stude has a good idea, but me , Id just throw some sticky rubber floor mats down untill showtime, then it will still look fresh with out compromising the design for wear and tear.
     
  19. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    If you want to stomp on it with muddy shoes, hands down, topcoated POR 15.

    The catch is I'd rubber mat it for at least 6 months. Anything that makes one year of curing without a chip or scratch will never have a chip or scratch.

    Downside, when your shoes are wet it's like ice.

    good luck and don't roast your lil tootsies.
     
  20. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    Also a good point!

    Don't know about anyone else, but I'm going to insulate my floor to keep the exhaust heat out as well as the noise.
     
  21. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,722

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

  22. 54BOMB
    Joined: Oct 23, 2004
    Posts: 2,115

    54BOMB
    Member

    My buddy has a old bronco with the zolatone paint on the floors, looked really good, but didnt last very long at all, but that was a lot of dirt and mud doing 4x4 stuff.
     
  23. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Que es Zolatone?
     
  24. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    What he said ^^^
     
  25. 54BOMB
    Joined: Oct 23, 2004
    Posts: 2,115

    54BOMB
    Member

  26. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

  27. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    OK I'm confused now

    Is the paint a transition coating during shakedown miles before insulation?
    Or will you be insulating the underside of the floor?
    Or will the coating also need insulation properties?

    FWIW My comment on slickness and water applies to any gloss coating. Makes using pedals weird when damp sneakers mean you can't pivot on your heel with any friction. More than once my foot slipped under the brake or clutch because of the slick floor.

    good luck.
     
  28. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    Going to insulate the underside of the floor. I agree with the slick surface thing too. I was thinking about that.

    In my coupe I've had just primered floors forever, but they look like poop now. Super surprised they've heald up this long.
     
  29. Roadsterpu
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 896

    Roadsterpu
    Member

    Scooter:
    If you dont want the bedliner look, then I would suggest POR-15. I woul then make the heavy traffic areas removable for easy repaint. This is really pushing it here, but if your floor is really flat you could lay down a very thin lexan or lexan like material that is transparent. But it might not look very good. Just a thought.
     
  30. Wildfire
    Joined: Apr 23, 2006
    Posts: 831

    Wildfire
    Member

    3WLarry's deuce had a gray zolatone interior, the stuff looks like trunk spray paint...
     

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