i've read about it a couple times now. Anybody ever done this? I figure after bodywork and a good primer this finish will hold till i'm ready financially for some good paint, But if anybody's got input I'd like to hear it,,
on top i didn't make it too clear on what i was talking bout, i read where back in the day the dude made a mix of 50% primer w/ 50% base coat,, he went for a yellow , i wanna go w/ a coffee color,, idunno if it matters whether its dark or light paint
I think you can get tintable primer made up at a paint supplier.. close to the color you would like to apply to your vehicle.. they used the tintable primer to help with the low hiding colors that dont cover very well.. I know theres a few suppliers that carry that .. hope that helps..
I had a friend that did the same thing with his 50 merc.. . it seemed to work okay for a couple of summers.. just keep in mind.. its still primer, and it will absorb moisture..
If it were mine, I'd spend a little extra money and put a flattened single stage urethane on it. It would hold up to the elements, and seal what bodywork you've already completed.
THIS. Primer will not seal out the elements for longs at all. I got guy to mix me up a semi-gloss metallic single stage for me to use as a temporary paint job after stripping my car. I don't have to worry about stripping it again because of rust starting under the primer now.
In 1959 my Dad had some white primer tinted with Cat yellow and painted my 37 Ford PU--looked pretty cool and lasted for a couple of years--another guy in town did a similar purple tinted primer on a 50 Ford
ya thats cuz it was lacquer. u can mix the lacquer like that. urethanes now, u cant, unless its a tintable version. the price u pay to get a tintable primer, u could ss the whole car with real paint. i hate the word temporary when it comes to painting a vehicle. its alot of work, wasted time, and money. to get rid of something u didnt really want in the first place. do it once, call it dun!
Um hmm. The point of tintable primers is so you can closely match your basecoat to aid in coverage and get your color quicker in less coats. For instance, I just painted a '36 Dodge that used to be silver/black 2 tone. I sealed it all in black and then topcoated in black. That way I didn't have to try and cover the silver with the black topcoat. Dig? I think your trying to go for the "hot rod" look but not black. Use a flattened single stage as mentioned for this. Primer, tinted with basecoat or not, will allow moisture thorugh.
When i primed my cavalier i used U-POL color primer/sealer... It comes in white and has 10 color packs and a color chart for you to mix the color how u want.. held up well for about a year.. had some fadding tho but the car was never garage kept