That's only on Bendix style self energizing brakes. On 40 Ford Lougheed style brakes, which are not self energizing the long shoe goes to the front. HemiDeuce.
Not to be a wise-guy, but this is why we were always taught to only do one side at a time when replacing brake shoes. If you do it that way you can always look at the other side for an example on how to put it back together. I've been a professional mechanic for over 15 years and I still do it that way. Jay
because its all rebuilt to new and i had nothing to go by. i was just going to run spindle no brakes so i put brakes on the front. i have built this whole car that way. i bead blasted every nut and bolt i did every thing myself. not a shop. so basicaly i started from scratch. billy
I have been a mechanic for 38 years .Take pics when takeing apart and or make diagrams . Saves time and headaches.
I agree that doing one side at a time is the best way. Hopefully the guy before you put it all together the right way... Drawing a picture or taking one helps. I draw a little pic of how serpentine belts go before I rip an engine apart. I drew a picture of where all the wires went in my TV that I took apart last night too. Don't expect to remember how **** goes back together after a few days..or sometimes alot longer. Especially if you are not familiar with it. Even more so, if lots of beer consumption is between the dis-***embly and the re-***embly. Get yourself a copy of the Green Bible..that will show you how everything mechanical goes together on your car. Tons of pics and exploded drawings.
I try to find a picture to check if the guy before me actually did it right, just to make sure; but still only do one side at a time.
I am in the process of doing the same to a 40 ford brake setup. I agree that the big shoe goes to the front and the large end of the wheel cylinder also goes to the front.
hey hellmet, i got this a couple years ago and its the best brake adjusting guide ive ever came across for 40 style brakes. this is how i set mine and my ol car stops on a dime and tosses yu back 9 cents. good luck, hope this helps yu .. elwood .. The following applies to 39-42 Ford/Merc brakes with adjustable lower shoe anchors: The system must have good master cylinder and wheel cylinders that do not leak, drums must be machined so that they are smooth and round. The master cylinder pushrod must be adjusted so that there is about 1/16" clearance between the pushrod and master cylinder piston bore bottom and about 3/8" "free travel" at the pedal before the pushrod contacts the piston. For these brakes to work correctly and to their full capacity, the shoe linings must be ground to fit the drums so that full contact can occur; if this is not done, the linings will either contact only at both ends (lining arc too large) or only at the centers (lining arc too small); if this is not done, you are going to be unhappy. Before installing the shoes, set the upper adjustments so the shoes can be as far inward (away from the drums) as possible. ***emble the shoes and lower anchors (eccentrics) so the flats are horizontal and the dots are opposite each other, as close to each other as they can be. The purpose of these lower anchors is to allow centering the shoe linings in the drum. When all is ***embled, install the drums and turn the upper (11/16" hex heads) DOWNWARD until the shoes just contact the drums. If the system has been opened during brake overhaul, bleed the air out until there is a rock-hard pedal with no sponginess. Have a helper put about 30lbs of foot pressure on the pedal and hold it there. Loosen the lower anchor locknuts so that the anchor studs can be rotated by using a small wrench on the flats. Perform the lower anchor adjustent to cause the linings to be centered in the drums so that full lining contact can occur. Rotate the flats in each direction so that you can "feel" when the linings are contacting the drum at each end of the lining. Set the shoe/lining at the midpoint and hold the flat/stud from turning while tightening the locknut. Do this to both shoes at each brake, then have the helper release the foot pressure. Then reset the upper/clearance adjustment until the lining just contacts the drum surface without heavy drag. Repeat the above on all 4 brakes. Road test the vehicle to see if it now stops good and straight; readjust the clearance as necessary to cause it to do so. If it does not, there is unequal shoe contact somewhere that is causing one brake to stop more than another; like the shoes not properly fit to the drums, grease or oil or fluid on the linings etc. Failed to mention that the LONGER lining goes forward and the SHORTER lining goes rearward at each brake AND the larger wheel cylinder pistons face forward at each brake, and the larger wheel cylinders go on the front brakes and the smaller wheel cylinders go on the rear brakes, and all wheel cylinder ports angle towards the REAR of the vehicle, and bleeder screws must all be at the TOP...
Beating a dead horse now, but what the heck - HELLMET got his answer and it's kind of a funny story. I put some F-100 drums up front on my '40 Ford last year. The complete ***embled brakes came from a friend's running, driving '39 Ford. I used the backing plate ***emblies to figure out the spindle clearance but one side required a ton more clearance than the other. Turns out I had two left side brakes and they were both put together the same way (long shoe on the right - not towards the back). He said it always pulled when braking. No wonder he was happy to give them away.
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