I am looking for a set of Hairpins that aren't the same ole same ole. Anyone out there building anything different? Pics and or suppliers would be appreciated. Thanks in advance! v/r Russ
I am building my own. No pics but they are built from a model a tie rod, some DOM tubing, and the ends of a Model A wishbone. Pick up some old magazines and little books. All kinds of great ideas in them. All built before people started building their own stuff to look like catalog stuff - which is kind of strange if you think about it. Samiyam made some really simple ones which are very similar to the ones on the Eddie Dye roadster. There might be a tech article around somewhere.
The reinforcement plates between the tubes of the hairpins are the easiest areas to show your creativity, or "stupidi***y"(roughly translated, lack of style and/or sense). Let's see: There's the one piece loop style with a tube welded into the back side of the center of the loop. There's the upper and lower bars curving down at the back welded into the sidewalls of a tube which extends both into and out of the loop. There's the straight upper bar with the lower bar sweeping down and forward. There's the straight upper bar and straight lower bar connected by the reinforcement plate toward the rear. You name some more.
Call this guy. He makes all his own stuff and his radius rods, tierods, etc. are nice a thick walled steel. His name is Ron. Tell him Fred sent ya. http://eztbucket.com/
Hotroddon, I went to the Hollywood Hot Rods website and forgot what I was doing there when I saw the pinup gallery! The website was still under construction from what I saw. I couldn't really browse. I did see a nice set on one of the cars in the gallery. Thanks Reinforcement plates are what I am interested in. I saw some hairpins being sold on e#$% the other day that look pretty decent. I think they were around 350-399 a set, and had a reinforcement plate with a few holes in it. Wasn't sure what else was out there.......
tfeverfred, extbucket has good prices. Thanks While I'm on the subject...... is there any specific length that would perform better than others? I would also like to know where to mount the engine for the best performance/handling. I have seen some stretched front ends, and really short ones Thoughts? v/r
Engine placement for handling/performance is variable in a big way with the purpose of building the car, street, drag race race, roundy-round race, road race, etc. What do you have and what do you want to do with it? Engine, trans, rear, body?
34 Ford PU Dana 60 richmond, powerlok, moser, etc... gears TBD 31 x 19 rear tires 727 auto 354 Hemi to be built later I am gathering parts and knowledge and want to ask the hard questions as I figure out how I want it. I may be a little ahead of myself, but I have time to talk it right now. I will probably drag it a little, but basically a weekend cruiser/tire burner. Thanks
we have been building our own hairpins... Using 7/8 dom ..Price has jumped from $ 2 per ft to over $ 4.00 ..we use a harbor freight pipe bender, you must cut the tubing longer to be able to bend then trim to length after the bend..we cut the end that gets threaded.one inch longer than the final length .. I use a slow speed electricians right angle drill and use the smallest bit that removes metal use plenty of cuttin-tapping oil.. keep changing bits until I get the size required for the tap. We have been using 5/8 clevis's so we change to a 5/8 bit and drill out that extra one inch ... then when we tap-the tap slides in one inch and goes straight. the next step is to cut off that extra inch... re drill for the tap size and retap to the full depth. this gives good straigh threads. I have the tubing notcher from HF that uses the hole saw to cut the bird mouth notch on the ends. I have a friend that just bought a big surplus lathe so will try to tap a bunch at his place the easy way. If you don't have a big drill, bits and the taps, benders and are only doing one set you can't beat the price RPM charges for them.