Low and/or channeled cars with cut-out exhaust dumps

if it was mine id prefer the second option, but being channeled so far down it may be hard to swing that....

 

What Troy did or what Rolf did?

Yeah, the channel on the body forces me to go through the body, unfortunately. I figured I would do an aluminum trim ring that goes around the hole and over the paint.

(note to self: channeled cars are a pain in the A$$)

 

The H-pipe was welded in, in my Galaxie. I had to cut it out to drop the trans to change my clutch and re-installed the pipe with the same stainless clamps you referenced above.

I think they were about $8 each from Summit and they seal up very well. I'd definitely use them again! I've been told they are used alot on large truck applications...



Malcolm

 

sorry, troys 32(orange/gold?) is what id do, even tho the other cars is hidden better. the first one looks like there would be too much bad turbulence that might cause overheating n such.

 

I was sort of thinking that as well. I had even thought maybe I would come up with a way to slide a curved diverter in that would be part of the plug to help with flow into the cutout tubes for that reason. Just kicking ideas around on stuff like that.

Thanks Malcolm! I appreciate that! If those seal good, I'm thinking that would be ideal since I wouldn't have to have a lip at all, like I would for the v-band. I could make it a super tight fit that way.

 

Bob's headers are open at the end, they don't go under the car. What you see is a little stub that directs the exhaust back.

I like the idea of putting it through the frame like Troy did. Have you seen the header end caps that Sellers made? If you havent, check it out. They thread in the center and look killer.

And dude you should TOTALLY run Semi-style exhaust stacks straight up after the body! With chrome Ladies on top!

 

Heck, just use the frame as exhaust!

 

I don't know how expensive it would be but I know on alot of Chip Foose's high end builds they use some type of high temperature silicone o ring and then just slide the two pipes together (one obviously being flared). The O ring seals and holds the two pipes together. Not sure if it would work on a driver or not. He used it on the Grand Master and I have heard that car gets driven quite a bit.

 

The chrome ladies have to serve as those little flipper tops as well!!!!! "ting ting ting ting ting"

I've seen Steve's plugs for sure! They're awesome! I have another plan though.... you will have to wait and see!

Okay, I think I've got it figured out... It's going to be tricky, but I think it will keep the frame the strongest. I'm going to graft in an inch to the top of the frame in the area will it will go thru the frame. Then I will have an oval that will be just big enough to slide a 2-1/2" exhaust tube through, but in the area where it passes through the oval, the tubing will be oval. Then I'm going to use the slip fit unions and clamps like Malcolm used for his H-pipe. That will keep the frame good and strong and the flattened out/oval tubing will give plenty of room for exhaust movement as the engine moves around. Just to be safe, I'll add a piece of plate to the inside of the frame rail that will help restore some of that lost material. Couldn't hurt.

Thanks for everyone's input!!! I feel like I know where I need to go now. I'll post pictures after it's done.

 

Hmmmm... not heard of this. Anyone have more info?

 

if yer refering to bob bleeds car, i think the ccruved back tail is the remnants of a side pipe system remeniscant of a stingray vette. now its just run uncapped with the old side pipes cut off a few inches back from the Y. but its not my car, so obviously, this is just my observation from my stockpile of pic files.....

 

Here is a picture of the pieces together on his Stallion build. There is a picture of how it works in the article on the Grand Master in Super Rod June 2002 the picture is really small in the mag and right against the spine or I would scan it for you. It is basically two o rings on the inner pipe which must have some sort of rib on it to hold them in place. Looks slick when put together.

 

OHHHH! I like that!! I must know more!!

 

I'm trying to scan the other picture now. Hold on a minute

 

loose the flanges and run steel exhaust tubing. use expantion die to open up fe-male reciprient pipe. If your good you can get a nice tight slip fit....... Kinda like a three piece squish pipe exhaust went together on panheads.

If you are too much of a girly boy to run open headers ! ! ! Ha Ha ha ! ! !

 

It scanned pretty good just waiting on Photobucket. Sllloooowwww!!!

 

Fuck that was painful. Ok here it is.

 

WHOA! That's crazy stuff man! Thanks for the effort scanning that and all! I appreciate it!

 

that car looks awesome!

 

He had mufflers that slid on (the pipe coming out the side of the collector) but doesn't use anymore.

 

Those band clamps work great have them all over my hot rod peterbilt. Only thing that will work and keep d.o.t. off your back about exhaust leaks. Buy the quality ones though.

 

10-4 i think ive got pics of it with that setup, thanx

 

@Puff's headers exit just as they should, 'functionally'... Just as they sit, shape the sheet metal around them as necessary.
'Form follows function'... See hoe they sit, OOPS! The hood won't close!
Notch it... Then massage it. See? Looks like it grew there!
Too many go directly into denial: "Wanted to use the headers, but they hit my HOOD!" What if the most famous racers submitted to such defeat? There'd be NO DEDICATED-PURPOSE RACE CARS!

So there. Nice execution, @Puff. Need to see more of these 'antics'.