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Car dies in Drive/Reverse

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crankhole, Feb 2, 2009.

  1. Crankhole
    Joined: Apr 7, 2005
    Posts: 2,644

    Crankhole
    Member

    I have a '60 Comet w/144 engine that has been sitting for about 6 months. I tried to start it and noticed the fuel pump was leaking so I replaced it along with new fuel line and filters before and after the pump. The car fires up fine and runs at idle. As soon as I put it in gear it dies. If I give it some gas it will go but dies as I let off. It ran and shifted fine before being parked 6 months ago. Could this be as simple as needing new points, plugs, etc...? Or am I looking at bigger problems here?
     
  2. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,207

    HemiRambler
    Member

    Dizzy - check the wires/connections inside as well as the regular tuneup stuff
     
  3. vegas paul
    Joined: Jan 2, 2008
    Posts: 172

    vegas paul
    Member
    from salina, ks

    Is the gas over 6 months old as well? Maybe try some fresh gas...
     
  4. Ruiner
    Joined: May 17, 2004
    Posts: 4,141

    Ruiner
    Member

    Also check for vacuum leaks...my O/T van does that all the time when the main vacuum line tree fitting works itself loose...
     
  5. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 36,054

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    For sure put fresh gas in it.

    +1 on checking for vacuum leaks but usually they won't idle good if you have a vacuum leak.


    I'd check the accelerator pump to make sure it is working at just off idle and then probably put a bottle of good carb cleaner in the tank to see if that helped clean the crud out.
    One more thing to check is to grab the top of the airhorn and twist it back and forth to see if the screws that hold the carb together are tight. I had that problem with the Ford 6 in my daughters car with similar symptoms. You have to pull the carb off to tighten the screws if that is the case.
    That carb is easy and inexpensive to rebuild and just may need a good clean out and new kit.
     
  6. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,756

    bobss396
    Member

    Is your car equipped with an anti-stall dashpot? If so it might be bad, some were adjustable too. They were found mostly on stick shift cars. I had a bad one on my '65 Falcon with the 170 and it was ok once I replaced it.

    Bob
     
  7. va***e advance is screwed up.
     
  8. Crankhole
    Joined: Apr 7, 2005
    Posts: 2,644

    Crankhole
    Member

    the connections inside the dizzy are good

    filled the tank with new gas

    not sure, but it has an auto trans with fluid topped
     
  9. 41woodie
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 1,146

    41woodie
    Member

    My bet, is vacuum leak, had same problem. Low vacuum (due to leak), rpm's lower when shifting into gear = not enough vacuum to keep running
     
  10. Crankhole
    Joined: Apr 7, 2005
    Posts: 2,644

    Crankhole
    Member

    Ok, so...new plugs, wires, points, condensor, and vacuum advance. It's better, but not 100%. I have to baby the throttle to get it to stay running in gear. My manual shows that I should have an anti-stall dashpot on the carb. It's missing. I think Bobss396 may be the winner. Does anyone have a spare '60 Comet/ Falcon carb laying around that I can swipe the dashpot from along with the bracket and screw that hold it? Are these 1908's? I think the '60 is different than the later ones.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2009
  11. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,756

    bobss396
    Member

    That makes it one in a row for me, yeehaw! They should be around new with the bracket, I did a quick look just before, but these weren't vintage parts sites.

    Good luck and hope someone or you can find what you need to get your ride running better.

    Bob
     
  12. Evel
    Joined: Jun 25, 2002
    Posts: 9,044

    Evel
    Member

    I had the same issue with my cad motor I don't know
    If it's the same issue but with mine I had zero compression
    In the #1. Cylinder due to 2 bent push rods (rebuild guy put
    Rocket ***embly on wrong) so maybe a compression check
    Too...
     
  13. yoyodyne
    Joined: Nov 26, 2008
    Posts: 855

    yoyodyne
    Member

    How much timing advance are you running at idle, and is that with the vacuum disconnected? Try advancing it a bit and see what happens.
     
  14. Belchfire8
    Joined: Sep 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,540

    Belchfire8
    Member

    Check the dwell, if you fooled with the timing or new points you'll have to set the dwell. If it's off it will do exactly what you are describing.
     
  15. art.resi
    Joined: Oct 15, 2006
    Posts: 214

    art.resi
    Member

    Check the trans vacuum modulator.
     
  16. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,343

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    Check idle mixture screw with engine in drive for a smooth idle, it may just be a tad lean. What is the compression like? Engine could be weak in compression department. It will idle fine, but with a load it may not.
     
  17. Dago 88
    Joined: Mar 4, 2006
    Posts: 2,449

    Dago 88
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Torque converter may have collapsed, Leaving it with no stall ?
     
  18. Crankhole
    Joined: Apr 7, 2005
    Posts: 2,644

    Crankhole
    Member

    I rebuilt the carb and it runs like a top. But, now when I put it in reverse, it makes a loud "clank". It doesn't do it when I put it in drive. It's a 2-speed auto. Ideas?
     
  19. This may be a long shot, but pull off the dist cap and make sure the mechanical advance isn't sticking from sitting so long.
    A sticking advance could leave your engine with no guts at or near idle speed.

    A weak ign or tight torque convertor could do that too.

    I also support the "bad gas" theory. Sometimes you get bad gas on a fresh fill up.

    If you are cheap like me----
    It would pay to start pulling very fresh gas straight from a good can while you work out the troubles, then after it runs good, you can re-introduce the "old" gas a bit at a time with the good fresh gas you just put in the tank.
    That way you won't be tempted to skip over the likely "bad gas" possibility because of the thought of wasting money.
     
  20. pastlane
    Joined: Oct 4, 2007
    Posts: 1,063

    pastlane
    Member

    The "clank" could be whipped u joints of excessive lash in the ring & pinion
     

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